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Posted

Ive recently purchased the new Giant revolt, the first thing i did was take out the dfuse seatpost and put a round seatpost (30.9mm) in. This seems to be the best preventative measure, done over 2500 km on my revolt with no issues.

The revolt can take up to a 53mm tire in long flip chip position, ive seen one with a 2.1 mtb tire in. 

you wont go wrong with this bike

Posted
5 minutes ago, Kyle48 said:

Ive recently purchased the new Giant revolt, the first thing i did was take out the dfuse seatpost and put a round seatpost (30.9mm) in. This seems to be the best preventative measure, done over 2500 km on my revolt with no issues.

The revolt can take up to a 53mm tire in long flip chip position, ive seen one with a 2.1 mtb tire in. 

you wont go wrong with this bike

Great, thanks for that info

Posted

I have been riding a Giant Revolt for more than 2 years now. No issues with cracks or mechanical failures on bicycle. I have the 2 x 11 Force Etap groupset and I enjoy the 2 x drivetrain as it gives me more range when riding on tar roads or fast district roads. I prefer it to 1 x drivetrain. 

I ride the panaracer semi-slick tires in 43 mm width. It handles well on tar road and district roads. 

Posted

I'd always vote for choosing a bike on factors that you can't change. Tyre clearance, standards used (BB / Through Axle vs. QR, disc vs. rim, flat mount vs post mount), warranty/support, and geometry/fit are fixed and are either impossible or impractical to change. Choose the bike based on that.

Groupsets, tyres, saddles, wheels etc. can always be changed / customized to suit your application for less money and faff. Drivetrain in particular, don't choose a bike based on drivetrain (especially a bike intended for off road use) because it's a consumable component.

Posted
11 minutes ago, TyronLab said:

I'd always vote for choosing a bike on factors that you can't change. Tyre clearance, standards used (BB / Through Axle vs. QR, disc vs. rim, flat mount vs post mount), warranty/support, and geometry/fit are fixed and are either impossible or impractical to change. Choose the bike based on that.

Groupsets, tyres, saddles, wheels etc. can always be changed / customized to suit your application for less money and faff. Drivetrain in particular, don't choose a bike based on drivetrain (especially a bike intended for off road use) because it's a consumable component.

Thanks, good advice

Posted

Oh, and to add to that, I'd always recommend choosing a gravel bike with as much tyre clearance as possible. You can always choose to run narrower, but there's nothing you can do about its tyre clearance ceiling.

Posted
16 minutes ago, TyronLab said:

Oh, and to add to that, I'd always recommend choosing a gravel bike with as much tyre clearance as possible. You can always choose to run narrower, but there's nothing you can do about its tyre clearance ceiling.

This is without doubt the most important factor....of all the similarities and differences between road, gravel, cyclo-cross,  etc etc, this one element will influence the enjoyment you'll get out of the bike...go wide or stay on the tar... 🤣

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