Quick release on seatpost (MTB)

[Canaris]

Johan, when you are trying to do many things with one bike:  Freeride, XC, marathon ext, saddle height has to be adjusted (more bumps=lower height) accordingly.  (The manhood demands it.  Cycling is not meant to mean peanut butter making)  Compare Fritz Pienaars bike setup (XC) to Greg Minaar's (DH in the extreme) to see the different approaches to saddle height.

[dirtrider]

Besides that my bike will not go into the back of my truck unless I lower the saddle ! or take of the canopeeee .

[NotSoBigBen]

Besides that my bike will not go into the back of my truck unless I lower the saddle ! or take of the canopeeee .

 

 

TRUNK? I fought that's only on elephants ..........

[Canaris]

Besides that my bike will not go into the back of my truck unless I lower the saddle ! or take of the canopeeee .

 

now that gives travel a new meaning.

[Flea]

If you use the Ride-On type bike carrier (eg THULE Euroway 3), then sometimes the handle-bars touch the saddle of the other bike. Easier to lower the saddle - especially when you are tired after a race.

[MintSauce]

I suppose riding style also needs to be factored in. If you just cruise the descents it will be a bit of a non-issue.

 

If you're hammering them and jumping over rocks and roots and need to sometimes get as much air as possible to clear obstacles, it becomes a necessity. In those instances the saddle just gets in the way of you lifting the bike as high as you need to and that means the obstacle becomes unrideable or you crash.

 

It's simply a matter of what the individual prefers.

 

Bottomline is if you need the adjustment then for sure get the QR. If you're not going to use it then the allenkey type is the better option.

 

Johan, the zig-zag gouges in the post....is that not perhaps a post that is too tight or just not well lubed? Perhaps a frame that the seattube isn't quite the correct size?

 

Just wondering...I use a Thompson that is the correct size as prescribed by the manufacturer for my frame and when I release the bolt the post drops into the frame under it's own weight.

 

 

 

[Johan Bornman]

OK, guys, you have convinced me. There are valid reasons you want to adjust your seatpost more often than when you get a new bike.

 

MintSauce, my problem is steel frames that don't like alu posts and, grit that gets in there. To be honest, the only bad zig-zag damage I have is on a beautiful Suntour Superbepro seatpost in a very ugly Peugeot (of Hyperama quality) frame that's on my Cyclosimulator.

[MintSauce]

 

Suntour Superbepro seatpost + Peugeot (of Hyperama quality) frame

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ox_Wagon]

Some of the UK MTB mags predict that adjustable seat post like the <?: prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" />Joplin is the next big thing in MTBing, in line with MS comments about the need for seat post adjustment. 

http://www.crankbrothers.com/seatposts_joplin.php

 

Not that it is a new idea. Remember those coil  spring thingies of the early 90?s. <?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

[Tumbleweed]

lazy to link, how much adjustment does it have?

[Ox_Wagon]

  75mm

[downhilldemon]

allenkey bolt is more aerodynamic

[Iwan Kemp]

Even on my XC bike I dropped my post for tech sections, drops, jumps andtwisty sgl track. Makes a BIG difference to have your seat out of the way. To do that you need a QR as tools become a hassle. I've never had any slip or QR issues. I suppose like anything else they too wear and need to be replaced after a while. Fortunately most manufacturers have caught on and have moved the clamp to the front of the post to keep it out of the way of muck flying up from the rear tire.

 

But stopping to lower or raise my post is a bit of a passion killer, so I bought a Jolpin for my new ride. It's an awesome pice of tech an definately worth the upgrade if you ride AM. In the rain you need to keep the post mud free otherwise it battles a bit to go down. Will post a pic in the morning of my DIY solution to help with this.

 

I can see more and more manufacturers specing these OEM on their AM bikes. 75mm makes a BIG difference.

[GregSalomon]

Hi,

 

One reason against having a quick release for a seat post is that for some people(not many), the release lever will rub against their leg.

You can slide the lever to the back of the post but that's terribly ugly.

 

 

 

[Tumbleweed]

morning greg, i get what you're saying?snagged a baggy short on a qr over the years

[MintSauce]

 

You can slide the lever to the back of the post but that's terribly ugly.

 

 

If I understand you correctly, you mean rotating the whole clamp so the lever sits at the back...?

 

This would mean that the slot on the clamp and the one in the frame are not aligned. Not sure if this is a good idea. I would think that for the clamp to hold properly they need to be aligned as those slots need to close to some degree. If they're not aligned I suspect the clamp won't be able to tighten as much as is possible and this might actually cause slippage.

 

At least that's how I see it.

 

Besides that, the levers that I've seen are generally not very small and in most cases actually protrude even more when turned sideways....depends on the make of course