2018 Scott Spark 960 Replacement Rear Hub

[Ledz]

Good day, all.

 

If this has been answered before and you can direct me to the thread, I would appreciate it, haven't been able to find anything on it.

 

I've got a 2018 Scott Spark with the standard Syncros wheel and hub. Formula CT1702, 5mm x 141mm, XD driver

https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Bikes,3/Scott/Spark-960,22920

Bike only had maybe 400km on it when I bought it second hand and not long after I got a crunchy sound starting in the rear wheel, stripped it to find damaged ball bearings and cups. It looked as though it wasn't assembled well and water had passed the outer seal and got to the non-drive side bearing. So, I ordered a replacement axle and balls kit from Scott Sports and had it fitted. 

Couple hundred km later and I'm hearing things again, as well as that the cassette has play on it as though the free hub is not fully restrained.

 

I would like to know what options there are for replacement to something with sealed bearings?

Will I have to replace the wheel too, or could I just have a the wheel rebuilt onto a new hub?

 

Thanks, 

Ledz

[Super Sywurm]

Just get a new hub.

[Koos Likkewaan 2]

SS is correct that technically only a new hub, although you will probably have to replace spokes as well. Length will probably differ depending on the hub you choose.

Nipples will be changed as well.

This only leaves the rim, which you might want to reuse to keep the wheels the same. Only concern I would have here is that I have seen my riding partners Syncros rim starting to crack at the spoke holes. also 2018 model, although it does have a lot of km's on.

If money is tight, do the hub and probably spokes. For a littler bit more, I would probably build a new wheel. 

[droo]

Find a decent wheelbuilder and get them to check it out. After 5 years you'll definitely need new spokes, and by that stage replacing the rim won't be that much more of a stretch - hub, spokes and labour will make up about 70 - 80% of the cost of a new wheel anyway.

[Ledz]

55 minutes ago, Super Sywurm said:

Just get a new hub.

Thanks, SS. That's the plan to get away from the Formula hub. Just wondering what works with this spacing.

46 minutes ago, Koos Likkewaan 2 said:

SS is correct that technically only a new hub, although you will probably have to replace spokes as well. Length will probably differ depending on the hub you choose.

Nipples will be changed as well.

This only leaves the rim, which you might want to reuse to keep the wheels the same. Only concern I would have here is that I have seen my riding partners Syncros rim starting to crack at the spoke holes. also 2018 model, although it does have a lot of km's on.

If money is tight, do the hub and probably spokes. For a littler bit more, I would probably build a new wheel. 

Hi, Koos. 

Thanks for the insight. I think the rim is in pretty good condition, will check again though around the spoke holes. Hub and spokes would be fine, if I can find a wheel builder I will go there first as droo suggests. I would just like something a bit more robust and easier to service.

24 minutes ago, droo said:

Find a decent wheelbuilder and get them to check it out. After 5 years you'll definitely need new spokes, and by that stage replacing the rim won't be that much more of a stretch - hub, spokes and labour will make up about 70 - 80% of the cost of a new wheel anyway.

Thanks, droo. I should have added that I'm in CT. Do you have any recommendations for wheel builders to contact?

[droo]

31 minutes ago, Ledz said:

Thanks, droo. I should have added that I'm in CT. Do you have any recommendations for wheel builders to contact?

I'm in Woodstock if you'd like me to have a look for you, but if you're further out of town I can offer a few more suggestions.

[Ledz]

46 minutes ago, droo said:

I'm in Woodstock if you'd like me to have a look for you, but if you're further out of town I can offer a few more suggestions.

Thanks, droo. I'll stop in soon to get your opinion on things, fork service too.

[Ledz]

Update for the curious.

Wednesday night I couldn't hold back my curiosity and pulled the axle to see what the damage was this time. Surprisingly the main balls and races looked to be in good condition. The grease in the races was a little discoloured, possibly emulsion. Spinning the axle prior to removal there was no great resistance or rough spots, so this pointed to the freehub causing the noise. The first time I took this hub apart, there had been moisture in the non drive side bearing and the freehub. The steel push-in washer had been installed skew and so the wiper seal that sits on the cone nut was not in full contact with this washer to provide ingress protection. I ordered the repair kit from Scott and had it fitted by a local shop that had all the requisite tools.

Jump to now, I open up and find that the wiper seal was never installed by the shop that did the repair. Luckily I asked to keep the old parts, so I've scavenged the old one to put back. There was dirt and grit near the ball bearings, looks like excess grease emerged on the non drive side (probably all over my disc unknowingly). Most of the moisture seems to have ended up in the freehub causing significant damage.

I have stripped and cleaned the balls, cups and cones ready for reassembly. I don't have the tool to disassemble the freehub, but I washed out with degreaser, alcohol and acetone to try and remove all the crud and rust. It is pretty much trash. I think the pawls have corroded. They still tick over, but the feeling is very rough. After rinsing and repeating I repacked the main race on the freehub, the balls are pitted and rough, but they only have to make it until I get a replacement.

I'll put it all back together tonight for a short ride tomorrow, then get to grips with my options.

The rusted, gritty freehub with inner seal removed to expose the ball bearings.

Locking nut, shield and cone nut that came off the drive side end, no wiper seal installed.

The wiper seal that should have been there from the kit (or reused from the old parts).

Evidence on the non drive side of grease escaping.

The pitted and corroded balls.

Rusty pawl just visible through the races.

 

Regards,

Ledz

[Bicycle Yard WESTERN CAPE]

I would suggest rather upgrading to a better hub to prevent similar issues in the future as those hubs tend to collapse on the freewheel unfortunately.

 

Kindest 

[Ledz]

1 minute ago, Bicycle Yard Zarras WESTERN CAPE said:

I would suggest rather upgrading to a better hub to prevent similar issues in the future as those hubs tend to collapse on the freewheel unfortunately.

 

Kindest 

Hi, Zarras.

 

Absolutely, that is the next step, this isn't going to last much longer the way it is. I'm open to suggestion if you know any for this 5x141mm?

I'll admit I am not super familiar with what works and what doesn't as I've not been involved with mountain bikes in many years, the technology has surged forth and continues to do so.

 

Regards,

Ledz

[Headshot]

I've had a good experience with a Rapide Boost rear hub if you're looking for a cheaper option. Mine has been going well for a couple of years with one bearing replaced I think.

[Ledz]

Thanks, @Headshot .

I'll look it up.

Cheers.