Advice please: Zwift + Gravel Bike (1 x11) resistance calibration

[Jonathan Collins]

Hello everybody,

I am brand new to Wahoo / Zwift, so I hope I don’t embarrass myself with this question:

I have tried one or two rides on Zwift but I don’t feel like the Wahoo Kickr resistance is appropriate for gear/cadence/speed that I am meant to be feeling (maybe I’m weak). I discovered my GRX rear derailleur has a clutch which helped take the slack off the chain but I still think it is not calibrated correctly. I have tried with ERG mode in and off. I have also done that spin down calibration. I’m not sure how to check, but surely there is a way to select different cassettes under settings to ensure the Wahoo configuration is correct for the bike. I did a interval session today and it was an absolute disaster trying to maintain the 85rpm cadence but keep the watts low enough to 65W in zone 2. When the cadence went up to 110rpm I would exceed the watts required by 200-300W which doesn’t seem right.

Any suggestions would be super great!

I have a Wahoo Kickr 4 with and Silverback Siablo CF (2023 spec):
 

Quote

Crankset Shimano GRX FC-RX600, 11 speed, 40T, 175mm Max Chainring 40T Bottom Bracket Type Pressfit PF30 Shifter/s Shimano ST-RX600 with BR-RX400 (R) Disc Brake Rear Derailleur Shimano RD-RX810 GRX Rear Derailleur, 11 speed, Direct Attachment Cassette Shimano CS-M5100 Deore Cassette, 11 speed, 11-42T Chain Shimano CN-HG601-11 Chain, 120 Links

 

[RobertWhitehead]

Have you done an FTP test as of yet? It sounds to me like you're riding without a proper FTP logged on the platform. 

[Theunissa]

18 minutes ago, Jonathan Collins said:

Hello everybody,

I am brand new to Wahoo / Zwift, so I hope I don’t embarrass myself with this question:

I have tried one or two rides on Zwift but I don’t feel like the Wahoo Kickr resistance is appropriate for gear/cadence/speed that I am meant to be feeling (maybe I’m weak). I discovered my GRX rear derailleur has a clutch which helped take the slack off the chain but I still think it is not calibrated correctly. I have tried with ERG mode in and off. I have also done that spin down calibration. I’m not sure how to check, but surely there is a way to select different cassettes under settings to ensure the Wahoo configuration is correct for the bike. I did a interval session today and it was an absolute disaster trying to maintain the 85rpm cadence but keep the watts low enough to 65W in zone 2. When the cadence went up to 110rpm I would exceed the watts required by 200-300W which doesn’t seem right.

Any suggestions would be super great!

I have a Wahoo Kickr 4 with and Silverback Siablo CF (2023 spec):
 

 

I started about 5 months ago. I the beginning it was difficult to get used to the cadence, speed, and watts. It all seems out. What's exactly do you mean you can't keep at 65w with 85 cadence. I habe also noticed trainers cadence is 100%. I use my garmin cadence sensor. It gives me better readings. Also it feels alot harder on a trainer than real life. I hate the trainer some days. But it's needed for the improvement 

[Mongoose!]

65w at zone 2 ?   🤔

Rather do a FTP test (on Zwift) and recalculate your zones based on the FTP result.

[thebob]

FTP test is a must, but do the spindown in the Wahoo app first. Get the trainer nice and warmed up before doing the spindown, a nice 10 minute spin should suffice. Also make sure that the Kickr is selected as the controllable device for Zwift on the device selection screen. Also make sure that no other bluetooth devices are connected to the Kickr before you load up Zwift.

Edited July 17, 2023 by thebob

[BuffsVintageBikes]

I'm new to Zwift as well and have my 11 speed gravel cluster on my trainer and I don't seem to be experiencing the same issues as you. As far as I'm aware, it doesn't really matter what cluster you're using as it's power based. As mentioned, doing the FTP test is important though, all future intervals sessions you do after that are based on your FTP results.

65W at 85rpm is very light on the pedals, you'd need to be in the small blade up front and high up at the rear. Just be careful of the dead zone in Zwift where it tells you to ride at a particular wattage and if you let it drop below that, it increases its resistance automatically to force you to output those watts but it can turn into a death spiral quickly where the trainer basically kills your legs by upping the resistance quickly.

[Jewbacca]

Maybe the OP is stuck in ERG mode?