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Posted

Hi Guys,

 

I'm in need of some advice.  I'm trying to remove my crank so that I can get to my bottom bracket.

 

I've got shimano hollowtech cranks and octalink bottom bracket.  I'm trying to remove it with a Park crank puller, but the way the puller works is that it needs to push against something in the bb to push the crank arm off, not so.  But there is nothing for it to push on because it is hollow.

 

I've tried all sorts of heath robinson things, but nothing is working.

 

Help me please!
Posted

If you want to use the old-style crank remover you can buy an adapter for it. Or, you are boer en maak a plan: the one-cent euro coin fits right in between the crank "hole" and the axel and can be used as a counter to push the crank out. dunno what Rand-coin could fit in-if at all.

Posted

Octa Link - are those the slightly older ones with a splined spindle?In my experience you don't need a tool to take them off. Just use the crank attaching bolt (8mm allen key) within the lock ring; loosen lock ring first then undo the 8mm bolt. It should press that sucker right off.

Otherwise just bliksem it with a moer of a hammer.

 

Posted

 

Octa Link - are those the slightly older ones with a splined spindle?In my experience you don't need a tool to take them off. Just use the crank attaching bolt (8mm allen key) within the lock ring; loosen lock ring first then undo the 8mm bolt. It should press that sucker right off.

Otherwise just bliksem it with a moer of a hammer.

 

 

either I completely misunderstand you or your sicription doesn't make sense.

The "lock" ring, as I have it on my XT octalink crank, isn't as much a lock ring but what helps you to undo your crank without any extra tools. All you need is the allen key to screw the "crank attaching bolt" out, it'll press against the ring and your crank will subsequently come loose.

 

The octalink cranks on my road biek don't have such a ring and there I use the old crank remover with the help of the coin.

 

hammer is out of question.

 

Posted

mmmm I was thinking of the old Ultegra and Dura Ace bad boys (check the for sale thread, someone has an Ultegra groupo for sale of that kind) those ones with the splined BB spindle you could squeeze off that way.

 

The hammer bit was a joke....obviously (maybe just a bad one..!!) Shocked

 

Posted

 

mmmm I was thinking of the old Ultegra and Dura Ace bad boys (check the for sale thread' date=' someone has an Ultegra groupo for sale of that kind) those ones with the splined BB spindle you could squeeze off that way.

[/quote']

Confused

 

The hammer bit was a joke....obviously (maybe just a bad one..!!) Shocked

 

 

I thought so but I have seen too many people using the moer in an attempt to get the crank off....and they did moer! not a slight hammering around the crank...

 

Posted

hahaha Legend that's actually a good point you make. When I was an itty bitty boy of 15 (DANGER! I'm breaking into song...and I definitely put the 'breaking' into breaking into song) I tried to get those old square taper cranks off in that manner. Doesn't work. And it's not even satisfying in the way that smashing something with a hammer and throwing it across the room usually is....

Posted

 

hahaha Legend that's actually a good point you make. When I was an itty bitty boy of 15 (DANGER! I'm breaking into song...and I definitely put the 'breaking' into breaking into song) I tried to get those old square taper cranks off in that manner. Doesn't work. And it's not even satisfying in the way that smashing something with a hammer and throwing it across the room usually is....

 

haha.

 

 

man, two friends of mine actually managed to get at least one of two cranks of the square axel off. they moered it so hard I expected bad damage but nothing really happened. They then gave their best on the other crank but that one stayed put and they eventually came to their senses.

 

I might have done the same but when I was really young my older brother told me how it goes and so saved me from that one mistake. Many others still happened though.

 

 

Posted

Cut yourself a dowell ort piece of round bar that fits inside the cank. You'll determine the length experimentally. Then use the puller to push against the dowell. Now lightly replace the bolt on the side that you just pulled off and pull the other side off. The original side should come off by hand now.

Often if this thing is really stuck, the dowell will split and mushroom. However, I've never taken the trouble to make it from something better - I'll always do it next time.

 

 

Posted

I have the same Hollowtech I (one) cranks on our tandem. I also had to buy the correct crank removal tool. A easier option is to fit these self extracting crank bolt.

 

 

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Images/Models/Full/19226.jpg

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