Stuck crank arm on MTB

[_BBi]

After all the mud of SabieX, I have taken the bold step to strip my bike and give it some TLC it deserves.

 

The only part I could not get off is the non-drive side cranc arm to get to the BB. The bike is a 2008 Stumpy FSR with Trutativ GXP Stylo cranks / BB. I know it is a self extracting crank, and there are 2 hex bolts on the non-drive arm, one a 16 mil (for the crank arm) and then a smaller one for the BB. I have removed both, but according to the book, the cranc arm should just come off by hand. I am to scrared to give it a nudge with the hammer.

 

Any surgestions?

 

Thanks

 

 

[singletrackmind]

bike shop

[TNT1]

 

bike shop

 

But only if you don't have a hammer and cold chisel at home...

 

[quickdraw]

Put both bolts back on snugly - then loosen the smaller hex (8mm), the 16mm one has to still be on the crank for the arm to come off - basically the smaller hex uses the larger bolt as leverage to pull the crank off.

 

The 2 bolts are for the crank and you will need a seperate tool to remove the BB cups.

quickdraw2009-01-06 03:48:48

[Speed Devil]

The bigger the problem the bigger the.....

 

Try ride the bike with the bolts out, it should help loosen the crank. If possible do it on a trainer so that when it does pop off you won't be stuck km's from home

[_BBi]

The bigger the problem the bigger the.....

 

Try ride the bike with the bolts out' date=' it should help loosen the crank. If possible do it on a trainer so that when it does pop off you won't be stuck km's from home

[/quote']

 

Would love to, but at the moment everyting is stripped, so no wheels - no ride...

[Johan Bornman]

The bigger the problem the bigger the.....

 

Try ride the bike with the bolts out' date=' it should help loosen the crank. If possible do it on a trainer so that when it does pop off you won't be stuck km's from home

[/quote']

 

This is extremely poor advice from two points of view:

 

1) On a splined crank like the Truvativ, the splines damage very, very easily and just one ride with a loose or loosening crank could ruin the crank.

 

2) On a square taper crank, a crank that was tightenened properly in the beginning and then ridden for a while, has squirmed up the taper away from the bolt and will stay put not matter how hard you ride it. Had it not been tightened properly and you rode it without a bolt and it should loosen, it will also be ruined.

 

 

[Mudsimus]

Obviously you own a hammer. So whats the problem?

[quickdraw]

Put both bolts back on snugly - then loosen the smaller hex (8mm)' date=' the 16mm one has to still be on the crank for the arm to come off - basically the smaller hex uses the larger bolt as leverage to pull the crank off.

 

The 2 bolts are for the crank and you will need a seperate tool to remove the BB cups.

[/quote']

 

Well I did give some advice on how to remove the crank "properly"

[_BBi]

Put both bolts back on snugly - then loosen the smaller hex (8mm)' date=' the 16mm one has to still be on the crank for the arm to come off - basically the smaller hex uses the larger bolt as leverage to pull the crank off.

 

The 2 bolts are for the crank and you will need a seperate tool to remove the BB cups.

[/quote']

 

Thanks, this worked perfectly last night.