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External BB servicing


Shebeen

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So I was just riding along at the 100miler.........

 

 

 

 

got me a BBT-9 to service my BB (xtr m960)

so exactly the same as the Hollowtech II in the parktool how to guide

 

and i quote:

 

Disassembly

IMPORTANT NOTE: First, loosen the two left crank pinch bolts at end of arm. Next, loosen and remove arm cap and slide arm off. It it sometimes necessary to gently tap arm with mallet. Pull crankset to right to remove right arm and spindle. Use BBT-9 to remove both cups. Non-drive side removes counter-clockwise. Drive side removes clockwise.

 20090520_013711_hollowtech16_La.jpg

only thing is the arm cap does not budge to come off. I've searched and can't find any reference to this (apart from don't overtighten to put it on).

 

must brute force be used (and how, the BBT-9 is designed so you can only finger tighten it - the plastic wheel is supposed to spin)?

is the arm cap screwed?it's alu
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Your post is a bit unclear, but it seems to me that you're looking at the instructions for the standard external BB and crank whereas you have an XTR crank. XTR cranks are completely different on the left hand side and require a special tool....and it is not a hammer.

 

EDit: Now that my eyes have focussed on that horrible photo (always make your photos 450 pixels wide and the depth will sort itself out), I see that it is an old XTR crank they show, still with pinch bolts. Newer XTR cranks don't have pinch bolts but press fit on.

 

The tool you need is a Shimano: TLFC-35
Johan Bornman2009-05-20 03:40:10
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sorry about the picture, it's the one from the parktools site and is exactly what i am doing (but without the gloves, must everything be blue with these guys?!)

 

I do have the older XTR - FC-M960, but it looks like shimano tools don't make a crank remover with some oomph for that either (quite hard to find their stuff with a picture actually). TL-FC16 is basically the same little plastic wheel as I have. The TLFC-35 is for M970 (XTR 2007)

 

Think the cap is corroded/stuck in there, I'm going to try and get some WD-40 in from the right hand side using the red straw, and see if that helps. Otherwise I suppose it's LBS

 

Hope that is more descriptive now.

 
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Maybe a silly question, but did you loosen the pichbolts first.

 

Maybe the arm is so tight that it is keeping the cup from turning via too much friction. If the pichbolts are loosened and taken out, you have some room to spray some wd-40 on the inside of the cap where it presses against the arm.

 

good luck.
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Maybe a silly question' date=' but did you loosen the pichbolts first.

 

Maybe the arm is so tight that it is keeping the cup from turning via too much friction. If the pichbolts are loosened and taken out, you have some room to spray some wd-40 on the inside of the cap where it presses against the arm.

 

good luck.
[/quote']

valid question.

 

ja, those bolts are long off. can actually wedge a screwdriver in the gap and prise the crank open slightly by twisting it (ie, the opposite to what the bolts do), so that helps get more access. will see what happens
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Maybe a silly question' date=' but did you loosen the pichbolts first.

 

Maybe the arm is so tight that it is keeping the cup from turning via too much friction. If the pichbolts are loosened and taken out, you have some room to spray some wd-40 on the inside of the cap where it presses against the arm.

 

good luck.
[/quote']

valid question.

 

pinchbolts came off first! I can actually get a flat screwdriver in the gap and prise it slightly open by twisting (ie. the opposite to what the pinchbolts do). will try that to expose more surface to the WD40.
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