derailleur hanger alignment tool

[Delgado]

You also have to remove the tyre when doing the job.

 

really?

Sarcasm is the poorest form of wit! I dont see why it is essential that a forum always needs to have some useless post on it ! If you not going to add value or make someone laugh' date=' stay away.

[/quote']

Even worse when a single sentence is taken out of context and ridiculed...... but then that is how they train reporters to think.

As do churches and theologians!

[Johan Bornman]

For those who care:

These hanger tools work by amplifying the hanger bend through a long lever. The end of the tool contacts the rim and by sweeping the tool over the available 3/4 of the rim, you can see differences in distance between the tool and the (true) rim. You then bend the hanger so that the tool connects the rim evenly over as much of the arch that isn't restricted by the seatstay and chainstay.

 

For the best and easiest operation you have to view the clearance in plane. With a fat tyre on there (anything over 20mm on a road bike and all MTB tyres, that view is obscured by the tyre's overhang.

 

Older hanger alignment tools were flat at the rim end - like the flatbar solution pictured above and would have connected the tyre instead of the rim. Tyres are notoriously untrue - as much as 10mms on MTB tyres and up to 5 on road bike tyres. Therefore you have to remove the tyre on old-style hanger tools.

 

Park came up with a new tool that has an adjustable block at the end, allowing you to make rim contact even with a tyre in place. However, visual inspection is what you want and with an overhanging tyre on there you cannot see the gap and have to go by feel or sound.

 

Park has a similar solution for its wheel stand and wheel bridge. It is a useless "feature".

 

It doesn't work. In order to do a proper job, you have you remove the tyre. Yes, really.

 

 

 

[Tumbleweed]

Park came up with a new tool that has an adjustable block at the end' date=' allowing you to make rim contact even with a tyre in place. However, visual inspection is what you want and with an overhanging tyre on there you cannot see the gap and have to go by feel or sound.

 

?

[/quote']

 

 

 

i don't agree with that. even on some older tools, which you use in conjunction with a ruler, you are using sight, not feel or sound.

 

holy roller2009-08-24 01:22:05

[straatvark]

 

Park came up with a new tool that has an adjustable block at the end' date=' allowing you to make rim contact even with a tyre in place. However, visual inspection is what you want and with an overhanging tyre on there you cannot see the gap and have to go by feel or sound.

 

 

[/quote']

 

 

 

i don't agree with that. even on some older tools, which you use in conjunction with a ruler, you are using sight, not feel or sound.

 

 

What do you don't agree with?

 

I read that you agree that the tyre prevent visual inspection, also that visual inspection is what you use when you bring a ruler into the equation as well?

[Tumbleweed]

 

Park came up with a new tool that has an adjustable block at the end' date=' allowing you to make rim contact even with a tyre in place. However, visual inspection is what you want and with an overhanging tyre on there you cannot see the gap and have to go by feel or sound.

 

?

[/quote']

 

 

 

i don't agree with that. even on some older tools, which you use in conjunction with a ruler, you are using sight, not feel or sound.

 

What do you don't agree with?I read that you agree that the tyre prevent visual inspection, also that visual inspection is what you use when you bring a ruler into the equation as well?

 

 

 

you read what? that ruler measurement and the park tool's one is against the rim, not the tyre. you don't have to be standing behind the bike to measure this, so the tyre doesn't come into play. it can be done sitting or standing next to the bike.

[Dirtbreath]

Any idea why the allignment is done on the rim and not the cassette? Surely this is what you are actually trying to line up and by going to the rim you are just increasing your margin for error. Would also make for a more compact tool.

[Matchstix]

 

Any idea why the allignment is done on the rim and not the cassette? Surely this is what you are actually trying to line up and by going to the rim you are just increasing your margin for error. Would also make for a more compact tool.

 

Actually working on the rim gives you more accuracy in the sense that a small ammount of movement at the rim is even smaller at the casette. so it will be easier to do the adjustment at the rim.

 

[Thug]

When I built my new bike, I used the park tool to align the hanger with the rim. I didn't take off the tyre and I've had no issues with alignment.

 

 

[droo]

The rim gives a better result because of the length of the lever arm. Any error at the hanger is amplified by the length of the tool, so the further away the reference point, the greater the accuracy of the reading.

 

 

 

If the rim and the cassette aren't aligned, you've got way bigger problems than a bent hanger.

[Dirtbreath]

 

Any idea why the allignment is done on the rim and not the cassette? Surely this is what you are actually trying to line up and by going to the rim you are just increasing your margin for error. Would also make for a more compact tool.

 

Actually working on the rim gives you more accuracy in the sense that a small ammount of movement at the rim is even smaller at the casette. so it will be easier to do the adjustment at the rim.

 

On the assumption that your rim is true.

 

[Matchstix]

my rim is always true. . . . .  it truly is a rim

[straatvark]

 

Any idea why the allignment is done on the rim and not the cassette? Surely this is what you are actually trying to line up and by going to the rim you are just increasing your margin for error. Would also make for a more compact tool.

 

Actually working on the rim gives you more accuracy in the sense that a small ammount of movement at the rim is even smaller at the casette. so it will be easier to do the adjustment at the rim.

 

On the assumption that your rim is true.

 

Yes, but we can assume someone will check that. (I would, if it was my own bike anyway) This is also done easier with the tyre removed.

 

[Dirtbreath]

 

my rim is always true. . . . .  it truly is a rim

 

Ja, ja, mine too.

 

Thing is if you are out on a stage race or something, chances are you have bent your hanger after a wipe. Putting on a new hanger and straightening to match a wheel that has been involved in this altercation with nature might not be such a good idea.

 

I have had an experience of putting on a brand new hanger that was out of line enough to prevent proper gear setup. Fortunately there was a bike stand that had the tool and we eventually got it right.

 

I unfortunately own one of those wheelsets with those dodgy nipples that make truing a true pain in the ass.

 

[Tumbleweed]

 

 

 

Any idea why the allignment is done on the rim and not the cassette? Surely this is what you are actually trying to line up and by going to the rim you are just increasing your margin for error. Would also make for a more compact tool.

 

Actually working on the rim gives you more accuracy in the sense that a small ammount of movement at the rim is even smaller at the casette. so it will be easier to do the adjustment at the rim.

On the assumption that your rim is true.

Yes' date=' but we can assume someone will check that. (I would, if it was my own bike anyway) This is also done easier with the tyre removed.[/quote']

 

 

 

but not necessary. and a proper job can be done with the tyre still on. yes, really.

[droo]

 

 

Any idea why the allignment is done on the rim and not the cassette? Surely this is what you are actually trying to line up and by going to the rim you are just increasing your margin for error. Would also make for a more compact tool.

 

Actually working on the rim gives you more accuracy in the sense that a small ammount of movement at the rim is even smaller at the casette. so it will be easier to do the adjustment at the rim.

On the assumption that your rim is true.

 

 

 

Even if it's not, you can compensate for it by turning the wheel and the tool together, using the same point on the rim as reference.

[Dirtbreath]

 

 

 

Any idea why the allignment is done on the rim and not the cassette? Surely this is what you are actually trying to line up and by going to the rim you are just increasing your margin for error. Would also make for a more compact tool.

 

Actually working on the rim gives you more accuracy in the sense that a small ammount of movement at the rim is even smaller at the casette. so it will be easier to do the adjustment at the rim.

On the assumption that your rim is true.

 

 

 

Even if it's not' date=' you can compensate for it by turning the wheel and the tool together, using the same point on the rim as reference.[/quote']