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Posted

I have a set of DT swiss 370 hubs and the freewheel bearings have been making noise for some time. I decided to belatedly open them up and hmm not good.

 

 

 

The bearing up near the spokes was full of gunk. So I cleaned and greased it but it is pretty shot. The rollers are dull and the race has a lot of wear.

 

 

 

here is a pic of the bearing I am talking about

 

 

 

http://www.cheapbikeparts360.com/images/b/4550.jpg

 

 

 

the wheel still worls, but freewheeling makes a rough noise, there is play in the freewheel and I think I may have to do some tlc.

 

 

 

So how much does a new freewheel cost?

 

 

 

 

 

brussel2009-09-20 13:42:17

Posted

That plastic cage and rollers is not making the noise. All that does is guide/hold the freehub body at the hub end, the other end is supported by a bearing. You might find that the noise is comming from the pawls or the bearings inside the freehub. Might need a new one.

 

In future, open the freehub by removing the nut and pull the body off taking care not to loose any of the rollers and clean with parafin. Spray some wd40 into the pawls and then add a mixture of grease and oil and reassemble. Take care to make sure that the seal inside the body is flat against the back of the body. Grease only is too thick and will hold the pawls down a bit so they will end up slipping against the teeth on the body and then you will need a new one. Over time a lot of gunk gets in there and by the time the bike shop gets it it's too late to save it.

 

Not a great explanation I know but hopefully you understand what I am trying to say.
Posted

plentipotential I understand entirely. The service is pretty simple and I stupidly left it too long. I used only grease on the the rollers and was careful to not get any onto the pawls.

 

 

 

Incidentally the pawls were in good nick as was the other bearing. Whilst the rollers don't carry weight, they are pretty buggered so I do think it is making the noise.

 

 

 

any idea what a new freewheel is going to cost?brussel2009-09-21 00:41:29

Posted

Not sure on the price, sorry. Phone around first. You might only need a new bearing ass. I doubt that it is the cage and rollers, try some oil/grease mixture on the pawls. If they run dry against the teeth they will make a racket. Some people like a noisy freehub, I prefer it quiet myself. Also once on I put some grease on the plate that goes against the body from the outside to hopefull keep water out.

Posted

that roller assembly sells for less than R100 so rather just replace it, sometimes the body that it sits on needs replacing as well, thats about R180 worth, I also generally replace the pawls as well which are about R70 for the pair, The actual freehub costs R350 thats the main body that the cassette sits on...

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Ok so I now have about 2.5mm of play at the tip of the 32 sprocket.

 

 

 

Where can I get the spare parts for this hub. I probably need most of the cassette internals as there is noticeable wear on the bearing surfaces. I need the bearing retainer, cassette body, pawls and spring as well as the above bearing.

 

 

 

ideas?

Posted

These hubs are not so great! The rubber seal does not do a good enough job, and therefore too much gunk gets into the freehub body too quickly.

 

To keep the hub running well, it needs regular servicing. For average enthusiast riding, I would recommend every two months. If you don't service it regularly, water and muck start causing corrosion on the tower (the bit that the rollers roll on).

 

If that tower gets corroded (happens more often than you'd like to know), then you'll need to replace it... get the lube ready! It's pretty pricey!

 

The freehub body bearing also doesn't last very long. I would replace that at each service. A bit pricey, but worth it to get good life out of the hub. Plus, you don't want the hub to seize on a ride!

 

IMO, I would upgrade to a Hope or DT340 hub. They're far more reliable and use better freehub body systems. The 340 is brilliant, but not that cheap. The Hope's a little more affordable, and good value for money!

 

 

 

 

Posted

 

Ok so I now have about 2.5mm of play at the tip of the 32 sprocket.

 

 

 

Where can I get the spare parts for this hub. I probably need most of the cassette internals as there is noticeable wear on the bearing surfaces. I need the bearing retainer' date=' cassette body, pawls and spring as well as the above bearing.

 

 

 

ideas?[/quote']

 

Mike from Mikes Bikes has a hub there that he traded in off a new Anthem (for a Hope), he can do the entire rebuild kit at a good price. Call him on 011 888 8868 for a price. Call on Wednesday, they're riding in Botswana until then.

 

 

Posted

MANY THANKS..i AM IN Cape Town tho.

 

 

 

a new hub would be great, but then I need to rebuild the wheel too :( not so great.

 

 

 

what is the difference compared with the 340?

Posted

the service is easy tso doing a regular one is not an issue and you can really use any lube.

 

 

 

The issue is that I left it too long originally :(

Posted

 

MANY THANKS..i AM IN Cape Town tho.

 

 

 

a new hub would be great' date=' but then I need to rebuild the wheel too :( not so great.

 

 

 

what is the difference compared with the 340?[/quote']

 

The 340 uses a ratchet system. It lasts soooo much longer... and is even easier to service Big%20smile

 

Posted
I have a set of DT swiss 370 hubs and the freewheel bearings have been making noise for some time. I decided to belatedly open them up and hmm not good.

The bearing up near the spokes was full of gunk. So I cleaned and greased it but it is pretty shot. The rollers are dull and the race has a lot of wear.

here is a pic of the bearing I am talking about

http://www.cheapbikeparts360.com/images/b/4550.jpg

the wheel still worls' date=' but freewheeling makes a rough noise, there is play in the freewheel and I think I may have to do some tlc.

So how much does a new freewheel cost?


[/quote']

 

I believe the technical term for those hubs is "rubbish". The seals are no-good and the rollers rush quicker than an Alfa Romeo in Durban. However, like you say, you're now stuck with them and to replace it means a new wheel. I'd suggest you live with the noise and play until there is so much play that it affects your gear shifting. As long as it doesn't affect shifting, the play doesn't really matter.

 

When you've reached that point, have a look at the rest of your wheel and if the rim is dodgy, you build a new wheel. I suggest you don't reward the company who designed that rubbish by buying another one of their hubs.

 

 
Posted

OK JB fair enough, I have though three questions:

 

 

 

1. I have this crazy though of replacing the loose bearinga bove with a sealed unit. I can machine the outer race to fit, bt I cannot seem tom find anything with 24mm ID 32mm OD and 6mm deep :( any ideas?

 

 

 

2. I have Mavic 819 rims which you rubbished sometime back, what other options are there for tubeless

 

 

 

3. What hub would you recommend?

Posted
OK JB fair enough' date=' I have though three questions:

1. I have this crazy though of replacing the loose bearinga bove with a sealed unit. I can machine the outer race to fit, bt I cannot seem tom find anything with 24mm ID 32mm OD and 6mm deep :( any ideas?

2. I have Mavic 819 rims which you rubbished sometime back, what other options are there for tubeless

3. What hub would you recommend?[/quote']

 

I don't know whether a cartridge bearing in those dimensions exist. Have you tried the SKF website, they list all their stuff there? Your plan sounds like a plan.

 

You have no options for dinkum tubeless that I know of, other than the 819s. Maybe someone else can help us out there. You are stuck between a rock and a hard place and I usually suggest people consider tubeless conversion. I never win that debate. Dunno why.

 

You know I like Shimano hubs. There is no better bargain to be had than SLX and technically nothing better for any money than XT.
Posted

I did check SKF and so far nothing - will phone bearing man on monday

 

 

 

OK so how do the flange dimensions differ on XT vs DT 370's

 

 

 

ie can I just swop the hubs and keep the spokes?

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