Cutting Shimano hydro cables

[Bos]

Hey I need some assurance as Im going to perform this little task a bit later, Think I know what Im doing

 

So As far as I know...

 

I cut the cable to the desired lenth.. Using what?? Is it plastic or is there metal inside? I only have Scissors, stanly knife and a side cutter.( and a dremmil if things get nasty)

 

2. I slide exhibit C   onto the hose

 

3. I slide the "Olive" otherwise Known as Exhibit A onto the tube behind Exhibit C

 

4. I use  exhibit E to clamp the side of the hose I just cut into a vice.

 

5, I hammer exhibit B into the tube

 

6, I hope now all I do is screw Exhibit C into the brake lever.

 

 

Hows that sound?

[dirtrider]

I would not use the scissors or side-cutter for this job . you want to keep the pipe "round" where you have cut it and the first two tooks will make the opening flat . The Stanly knife will work but I find the hacksaw does a fairly decent and clean job .

[Bos]

Thanks, DR.. does the rough edge from the hacksaw not make the oil leak?

Anyway, Got my new stuf from CRC yesterday.. why they always make the hoses so dam long.. I guess they cant make then longer, but one can cut them.

 

 

[dirtrider]

a hacksaw works fine just take it slow . ideally you would wanna use a pipecutter but I see that is not in your toolbox !

[Wyatt Earp]

Bos, first slide exhibit D on to the hose.

[Bos]

Oh, I kind of forgot about that buddy. So that goes on right before anything else? or before you put into leaver..

 

Oh I guess its not going to fit over C so I got to do it first. hope I get it bled ok.

 

One more question, When bleeding the brakes.. Does the object you insert between the pads or that Yellow block that just fits between the pistons, does that thickness determine the  amount of pull if your brakes dont have "bitepoint" adjustability? cause right now the brakes only bite about 20mm from the bar.. aint right If you ask me.

 

 

[Wyatt Earp]

The yellow goodie will sit between the pistons, so when you pull the lever the pistons re-tract.

 

Pump fluid from caliper to lever with a syringe and then bleed to Shimano's instructions..

 

Make sure you don't see any bubbles.

[Bos]

The yellow goodie will sit between the pistons' date=' so when you pull the lever the pistons re-tract.
Pump fluid from caliper to lever with a syringe and then bleed to Shimano's instructions..
Make sure you don't see any bubbles.[/quote']

 

Ok cool, thanks allot. How do I detirmine how far away from the bars the leaver "takes" or hits the disc? you know what I mean? Is that determined by how far I allow the pistons retract while bleeding?

[Wyatt Earp]

No not really, Shimano brakes have quite a firm bite, the little allen screw that changes the lever throw will also change the bite point.

[Bos]

No not really' date=' Shimano brakes have quite a firm bite, the little allen screw that changes the lever throw will also change the bite point.[/quote']

 

For real?? Wow thats cool, thanks Man. You taught me summin today, I guess I just didnt think of that in that way, the  leaver throw  screw basically just "amplifies" the leaver movement, am I correct? so that when You have further reach you have a further bitepoint.. Pitty, I will see whats up after I bled them, cause I have big palms and short fingers.

 

I got these from CRC.. hope they are ok.. really just got them for the colour

 

 

[Wyatt Earp]

Those are super and the color is cool.

 

The lever throw does not affect the piston action, just the response of the lever itself, taking it from spongy to firm.

 

Enjoy them.

[Cassie]

Bos, let us know how it went!!

Might be doing the same in the near future...

 

 

[Johan Bornman]

The two little yellow pieces of plastic (Exhibit E) are just a shaft clamp so you can hold the cable in a vice when tapping in Exhibit B.

 

Also, the tube can be cut with anything. The little bit of flattening is taken out by Exhibit B and poses no hassle at all. It is not tough at all, just plastic and rayon.

 

 

Johan Bornman2009-11-06 08:18:12

[Wyatt Earp]

The two little yellow pieces of plastic (Exhibit E) are just a shaft clamp so you can hold the cable in a vice when?tapping in?Exhibit B.

 

 

Unbelievable echo in here, I believe Bos covered this in his opening post

[Johan Bornman]

Those are super and the color is cool.
The lever throw does not affect the piston action' date=' just the response of the lever itself, taking it from spongy to firm.
Enjoy them.[/quote']

 

Cool colours notwithstanding, I sincerely doubt that the lever in question has any setting that alternates between spongy and firm. The way I see it, it changes the mechanical advantage by adjusting the lever length and hence main lever travel and reach distance.

 

For it to affect spongyness it would have to introduce and remove flex in the system or, introduce and remove bubbles in the system.

 

Spongyness in hydraulic systems refer to system flex, nothing else. In any system it would be a constant.

[Wyatt Earp]

Warra, warra, warra, semantics and BS all over again.

 

Why do you always feel the need to be the starter after the dessert just so that you can try and prove some superior knowledge and most of it being the biggest load of BS or twisting of words.

 

Well, congratulations to your massive brain and the time you have to talk all the **** you do at times.

 

 

 

Bos, the color is great, I like the white ones.

 

Not to make my explanation to my following comment too long winded/stretched out or elongated.

 

I regret ever posting in your thread, this is the very reason I don't contribute in the TECH forum, this is nothing against yourself as I felt from your original pots that you had all the bases covered (till you were being echoed)

 

 

 

May you enjoy your brakes and if you really struggle with them,let me just say "ek is MINDER bek as binnegoed" so you are more than welcome to give me a call and I will give you real world advise.

 

 

 

Again my apology for tarnishing your thread.