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True that wheel!?


RodTi
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Hello all...

 

Did a thread search about wheel maintenance, and

found my own...Embarrassed [https://www.bikehub.co.za/forum_posts.asp?TID=47293&PN=1]

 

Think the time

has come... Recently popped a new Crossmark on the front wheel - took

her out for a bit of bo-jangles, and somethings funny in the land of

Garp.

 

Looking down on the wheel at the fork/stanchion "arch" as

I'm riding, keeping an eye on the edge of the tyre - I notice definite

sideways movement as the wheel rotates...

 

This is trickier to

explain than I figured - but hope you get my gist. THe edge of the tyre

(as it forms the line with it spinning) is not running straight - but

swings in and out as I ride...

Checked the QR etc - wheel is tied in

properly, so something is not lekker.

 

When I lift the front wheel

up - spin it and then carefully look at where the rim runs past the

pads (I ride with V-brakes) - I also notice a slight deviation...

 

So

2 questions:

 

1.) Does this mean that the wheel is out of true -

since I'm not entirely sure what the signs would be - barring of course a

very-noticeably pretzeled wheel like that time I accidentally rode my

bmx down two flights of steps Cry [moer, dit was seer!]

 

2.)

Does the LBS only need the wheels - or would they prefer to check how

things align when positioned on the bike - i.e should I take the whole

bike in?

 

Fanks people!

 

 

 

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By the way...

 

I'm running Cane Creek Zonos SS wheels...

So

the spokes tighten on the inside of the wheel - see pics...

Not sure

if this method is common at all?

 

Will this make a difference in

regards to which LBS I should take them too?

 

 

20100328_135335_Zonos_SS_350.jpg

 

20100328_135408_Hub-detail_200.jpg

 

20100328_135429_CaneCreekHubs_5.jpg

20100328_135454_SapimSpoke_525.jpg

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It sounds like your tyre is not seated properly. UST tyres in particular are hard to seat properly and both brands that start with an M come factory-fitted with wobbles so that they are impossible to seat properly.

 

No need to take the tyre to a bike shop to fix a seating problem. Deflate it, put some very soapy water all along the bead (in effect, everywhere) and inflate hard with a compressor. The bead should pop into place a bit better with the help of some lubricant such as soapy water.

 

It also sounds as if your rim is out of true. This is also an easy DIY job. create some sort of reference (brake blocks on V-brakes or road bikes are good) and find the epicentre of the wobble. It is usually just one spoke that came loose.

 

Some rules:

 

1) Spokes only turn loose, not tight. Therefore, you remove wobbles by tightening spokes.

2) Tighten the spoke opposide the epicentre of the wobble.

3) Mark the spoke with a black permanent marker so that you can see if it twists as you wind up the nipple. If it twists, overshoot and come back.

 

Small wobbles can be tolerated on bikes with hub brakes but are totally unacceptable on rim brake bikes. Fix it.

 

As for the Cane Creek....luckily this silly fashion of nipples at the hub is now disappearing. It serves no purpose other than to complicate the truing process or wheels with crossed spokes.
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Thanks JB...

 

Took the wheels in today for a full service - so will have a looksy at how they feel tomorrow when I get them back...

 

 

 

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I just found it cheaper and quicker to take my wheels to my LBS to have them trued. I'm also on V's

 

 

 

But thanx for the post JB as I too have the M's on my bike and it bugs me that they have that slight wobble.

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