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Kenda Nevegals tubeless conversion???


nolipoli
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So I did a ghetto tubeless conversion on my Mavic xm317 rims, using the bmx inner tube method, on the weekend. The tyres are Kenda Nevegal 2.1's.

 

 

 

Trouble is, they don't hold air overnight. I have used slime sealant, and checked the setup underwater, and it appears to seal the sidewalls properly. ie. no bubbles.

 

 

 

But 12 hours later the tires had dropped from 3.5 bar to nothing.

 

 

 

Have I missed something? Or are the Nevegals just not suitable?

 

 

 

 

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Not sure what the "the bmx inner tube method" is :) but I have run the same tyres tubeless with Stans for 3 years. If you follow Stan's instructions to the letter it will work fine, there was some initial loss of air but after a few rides the tyres held pressure well.

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Did a conversion with non-tubeless Nevegal 2.35's, and they worked fine.

Not sure if the 2.1 and the 2.35 is the same though
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Instead of buying expensive kits, you get a 20" bmx tube, cut it in half, and stretch it over the rim. Cost is about R30 per tube.

 

 

 

I noticed at first there was a huge amount of air coming out through sidewalls, and it took a lot of shaking and rolling to get it to stop. But now if I can't see bubbles, how do I identify the problem areas?

 

 

 

Maybe I will just persevere a little more...

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Had the same problem with the non-UST Nevegals ... it takes time to seal the sidewalls ...

 

Which is also the reason why I had to replace the Nevegals 2 months later ... the sidewalls on the non-UST offers very little to no protection & both front & rear tire had sidewall cuts in no time ...
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I don't know about the tyres but it's well know that you should not do a tubeless conversion of any kind on a rim that is not welded at the seam (Mavic's process is called SUP). Using a rim that is "pinned" or "sleeved" could cause the rim to fail or for conversions not to work. The XM317 is "pinned".

 

(gets ready for someone to say "I've used 317's and they work fine....")
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u need to ride them tyres in.  in order to get the sealant every where.  Sometime it even finds its way around the tube and into the spokes.

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I don't know about the tyres but it's well know that you should not do a tubeless conversion of any kind on a rim that is not welded at the seam (Mavic's process is called SUP). Using a rim that is "pinned" or "sleeved" could cause the rim to fail or for conversions not to work. The XM317 is "pinned".

 

(gets ready for someone to say "I've used 317's and they work fine....")

http://www.notubes.com/support_selecting.php

The 317 is in their list of compatible rims?
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I don't know about the tyres but?it's well know that you?should not do a tubeless conversion of any kind on a rim that is not welded at the seam (Mavic's process is called SUP). Using a rim that is "pinned" or "sleeved" could cause the rim to fail or for conversions not to work. The XM317 is "pinned".

 

 

 

 

?

 

(gets ready for someone to say "I've used 317's and they work fine....")

 

 

 

I am gonna take it further !! You can make ANY rim tubeless , some just takes more time and effort .

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Ghostface you'll have to wait no longer, my buddy uses a ghetto conversion on his 317's and his works fine!!!

 

I'm sad to head that you shouldn't convert "sleeved" rims as I have a pair of 29er Sun Ringle EQ27 Sleeved rims on the way....gonna give it a go nonetheless. Are sleeved / pinned rims not strong enough or what would the reason be that it should not  be used?
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Would it be advisable to use silicone sealant to glue the tube/strip to the rim? I would guess it would help with the seal.

 

 

 

Also, if the Nevegals have weaker sidewalls that are prone to cuts, surely they would be destroyed regardless of whether they had tubes in or not?

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Noli don't worry about the Nevegals, I've used a variety of non UST tires tubeless and have yet to get a sidewall cut and I ride over rather than around things. On a WTB Wolverine with very thin sidewalls I did however get sidewall "chafe" at the bead from running at too low pressure but there were drops onto a flat landing involved.

 

Forget about silicone and all the rest, if you have enough slime in you'll get them sealed sooner or later, just persevere.
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I've seen rims, both Mavic and other brands (alex etc) that have leaked and/or split due to the sealant getting into the inner layer of the rim and "corroding" the pins and the rim "pops" open at the seam.

If you want hassle free riding then buy the right tool for the right job.

 

Flame away.
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I don't know about the tyres but it's well know that you should not do a tubeless conversion of any kind on a rim that is not welded at the seam (Mavic's process is called SUP). Using a rim that is "pinned" or "sleeved" could cause the rim to fail or for conversions not to work. The XM317 is "pinned".




 

(gets ready for someone to say "I've used 317's and they work fine....")


I am gonna take it further !! You can make ANY rim tubeless ' date=' some just takes more time and effort . [/quote']

 

You may be right but that does not mean that it is recommened.
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