RodTi Posted August 1, 2007 Share Hello All... So I've finally bought an indoor trainer. Got home.Set it up.In front of the TV.Friends - series 5.Rode it. Got off.Moved it to the garage.Put the IPOD volume way up - and rode it.No TV.No Friends [the series, not the carbon-based life source ]. Why?Because of the noise.Because in spite of me reading about how quite the new idt's are, no-one mentioned that they are quiet if you're riding with slicks.... In retrospect this would make sense.I just assumed that with more mtb'ers using idt's these days [or do I have this wrong too], that something would have been designed so as to allow a quiter ride, that is mtb compatible and will not destroy your knobblies? I was informed about the mtb specific slick tyre that you can use for the idt.But I have a tubeless wheelset.So to go through the schlepp of replacing the rear tyre with the slick tyre - to then change it all again, possibly the very next day when you can go out again and ride - sounds like a right royal pain in the butt. So what do I do? Any suggestions?Ducttape on the wheels? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fandacious Posted August 1, 2007 Share no-one mentioned that they are quiet if you're riding with slicks.... Bwahahahaha.... serious?!? Ok.. heres one option. Go buy a cheap rim, put a cheap cluster on it and a cheap slick. Shouldnt cost you more than R500 for the setup. Then, when u wanna ride your IDT, pop on the wheel with the slick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichH Posted August 1, 2007 Share I use my road bike on the IDT and my MTB outdoors. This way I don't need to change my IDT setup to ride offroad. Do you have a road bike? Might be worth investing in a cheap one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wonder Woman Posted August 1, 2007 Share Buy a wheel which you will only use on the trainer. I use my old training wheels on the trainer with the specific trainer tyre on and then just change wheels.....Easy!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodTi Posted August 1, 2007 Share Ja Fandacious - thought about that. I guess it won't make too much of a difference, since I won't be spending that much time on the idt - but I am a bit wary of trying the 'two' wheel system... Doing it would be a cinch (I have old wheels and tyres - only need a cheap cassette) - but what of the wear-and-tear on my chain and front cogs? Surely having a different rear mech changed on and off will have some sort of effect on the wear of the chain, which is turn will effect all the other components? Any truth to this as a concern - or not enough of a worry to stop me from doing what has been suggested?RodTi2007-08-01 08:27:43 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowjoe Posted August 1, 2007 Share buy a cheapie second hand road bike for the IDT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodTi Posted August 1, 2007 Share Slowjoe... A cheapie second hand roadie is still going to cost more than a lx rear mech...So if I can get away with it - I'd rather simply swap out the wheel... Anyone know if its ok to swop out wheels/mechs often - or could this increase chain wear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linnega Posted August 1, 2007 Share Why would you be changing the rear mech? The wear on the chain should be far less on an IDT than out in the veld where there are all sorts of pressures (like rocks, ruts and drops). You also change gear far less on an IDT. The only accelerated wear areas are the tyre, your ass and legs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendrik Petoors Posted August 1, 2007 Share I got a cheap rim, a Sora hub and had it laced. Before you put a slick tyre on rather get the yellow IDT specific yellow slick and put that on. Less wear, less noise and is specifically made for IDT with resulting longer tyre life. Just get a cassette the same as your current on and do a wheelchange every time you IDT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodTi Posted August 2, 2007 Share Thanks Oom H... Linnega - I need to get/change the rear mech because my old set of tyres don't have the mech on anymore, simply because I moved the mech over onto my new tubeless wheels... So to use the old rear wheel with a slick (Oom H - I saw that yellow IDT slick, will use it), I need to get a new rear mech for the old rear wheel... Oom H - does it need to be the same mech that I get? Have a XT mech on the tubeless wheels now - do you think I'd need to get XT for the old tyres? Or can I get away with Deore or LX? Thanks for all the advice so far! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodTi Posted August 3, 2007 Share Thanks for all the advice people! Had the old wheel rigged up yesterday - rode on the IDT last night, in front of the tv - almost no noise. Joy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendrik Petoors Posted August 3, 2007 Share Yellow tyre??????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendrik Petoors Posted August 3, 2007 Share When you do the wheelchange shift down into smallest gear at the back. This will make installing the wheel so much easier as you know where the chain must go. Also remember to hook up the V Brake as you get a really sinking feeling in your guts if you brake and there is nuffing!!!!!!!! Also put your bike down on the ground before you lock the quick release as this will ensure that the axle is seated properly in the dropout cutouts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fandacious Posted August 3, 2007 Share ..... the axle is seated properly in the dropout cutouts. or "Lawyers Lips" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodTi Posted August 3, 2007 Share Yellow tyre??????? Not yet Oom - LBS didn't have one, so sommer had one of my old dikwiel slicks put on... It'll do for now. Ja - removing and replacing the wheel is a real schlepp! My language-use deteriorates rather rapidly - but as with everything - I'm sure it will get easier with more practice. I have been leaving the chain on the smallest cog at the back - but am rather going to get it one up, on the 2nd smallest. Yesterday, when trying to put the wheel in, the chain kept on slipping into the gap between the smallest and the point where the seat/chain-stay meets the dropouts... As for the lawyer lips - think my frame is so old, that it doesn't even have them... BONUS!! Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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