Advice with MTB wheel/rim

[Bike Lore]

I managed to bend my rear wheel on my lovely stunt jumper and even tough the heart shape rim looks quite it is not that practical. so I need to replace it. so i have a few question.

 

The rim that i have is a DT-swiss 420SL(420g i think) The bike is about 1 year 3 months old and has done about 6000km that is what my polar claims. I weigh about 92kg fully kitted and like to say that i ride hard but i don't like doing drops or ramps higher than 1 meter.

 

I have 2 ways to go

1. Buy a new wheel (Rim, spokes and hub etc)

2. or only replace the rim, I am concerned that the spokes and nipples could be a issue later.

 

and the last question: what should i go for?

Should I go for:

NoTubes/Stans ZTR Arch Rim 32H Black (420g) ( I like the sales jargon)

Mavic 819 disc (tubeless, 450g)

DT-Swiss EX 500 (500g)

DT-Swiss XR 400 (400g) a little bid on the light side of life i think.

 

other options are welcome

[brussel]

819 is actually heaver than 450 when you add the special nipples - but they are pretty indestructable

[Bike Lore]

819 is actually heaver than 450 when you add the special nipples - but they are pretty indestructable

 

thanks. I am leaning toward ZTR Arch Disc Rim but still not 100% sure

[Flowta]

I managed to bend my rear wheel on my lovely stunt jumper and even tough the heart shape rim looks quite it is not that practical. so I need to replace it. so i have a few question.

 

The rim that i have is a DT-swiss 420SL(420g i think) The bike is about 1 year 3 months old and has done about 6000km that is what my polar claims. I weigh about 92kg fully kitted and like to say that i ride hard but i don't like doing drops or ramps higher than 1 meter.

 

I have 2 ways to go

1. Buy a new wheel (Rim, spokes and hub etc)

2. or only replace the rim, I am concerned that the spokes and nipples could be a issue later.

 

and the last question: what should i go for?

Should I go for:

NoTubes/Stans ZTR Arch Rim 32H Black (420g) ( I like the sales jargon)

Mavic 819 disc (tubeless, 450g)

DT-Swiss EX 500 (500g)

DT-Swiss XR 400 (400g) a little bid on the light side of life i think.

 

other options are welcome

 

If you replace the rim only then you would most likely need the same rim or one with the same ERD(effective rim diameter), even then it is not a good idea to reuse the spokes and nipples especially after the damage you say has been done.

 

What hub do you have on there now? When doing your calculations take into account the cost of spokes and nipples together with the rim.

[Flowta]

If you replace the rim only then you would most likely need the same rim or one with the same ERD(effective rim diameter), even then it is not a good idea to reuse the spokes and nipples especially after the damage you say has been done.

 

What hub do you have on there now? When doing your calculations take into account the cost of spokes and nipples together with the rim.

 

Oh yes, I've got a set of 819s and they handle my 100kg without a problem.

[VincentBikes]

The XM 317 Disc rims are also quite bullet proof and I would also suggets that you replace the spokes and nipples. Then have the job done by a reputable wheel builder. If you in JHB contact Johan Bornman to rebuild your wheel. You just need to weigh up the costs versus a new wheel.

[Bike Lore]

Oh yes, I've got a set of 819s and they handle my 100kg without a problem.

 

Hay Flowta and Ferrous Oxide . Thanks for confirming that using the same nipples and spokes is a bad idea. I have Shimano M525 SLfor my rear hub and i will use the DT-Swiss spoke calculator to get the spoke lengths when i need to order them.

[Bike Lore]

can i use DT Swiss Revolution Stainless DB Spokes? I ride hard but don't do all mountain even tough I would like to think i do. it states that Revolution is not for heave use but my definition of heave use and theirs could deffer allot

[Flowta]

can i use DT Swiss Revolution Stainless DB Spokes? I ride hard but don't do all mountain even tough I would like to think i do. it states that Revolution is not for heave use but my definition of heave use and theirs could deffer allot

 

Yes, you can.

 

DT Swiss comp would be fine too and cheaper. (they are also double butted)

 

I second getting a reputable wheel builder.

[Bike Lore]

yes. i relaise that. I have a reputable wheel builder that has been recommended in mind. live in Stellenbosch. well let see

[Bike Lore]

The XM 317 Disc rims are also quite bullet proof and I would also suggets that you replace the spokes and nipples. Then have the job done by a reputable wheel builder. If you in JHB contact Johan Bornman to rebuild your wheel. You just need to weigh up the costs versus a new wheel.

 

it is times like these that i some times i wish i lived closer to JHB, but then i look up on to the mountains and know where my strength come from. Thank FO I will go look at the rim. seem like allot of people are happy with them

[Flowta]

it is times like these that i some times i wish i lived closer to JHB, but then i look up on to the mountains and know where my strength come from. Thank FO I will go look at the rim. seem like allot of people are happy with them

 

If you go speak to William at Williams bike shop in Somerset West, he will give you good advice as to what rims to look at. He also builds a good wheel.

[Bike Lore]

thanks flowta. i will drop him an email. thanks very much

[Johan Bornman]

I managed to bend my rear wheel on my lovely stunt jumper and even tough the heart shape rim looks quite it is not that practical. so I need to replace it. so i have a few question.

 

The rim that i have is a DT-swiss 420SL(420g i think) The bike is about 1 year 3 months old and has done about 6000km that is what my polar claims. I weigh about 92kg fully kitted and like to say that i ride hard but i don't like doing drops or ramps higher than 1 meter.

 

I have 2 ways to go

1. Buy a new wheel (Rim, spokes and hub etc)

2. or only replace the rim, I am concerned that the spokes and nipples could be a issue later.

 

and the last question: what should i go for?

Should I go for:

NoTubes/Stans ZTR Arch Rim 32H Black (420g) ( I like the sales jargon)

Mavic 819 disc (tubeless, 450g)

DT-Swiss EX 500 (500g)

DT-Swiss XR 400 (400g) a little bid on the light side of life i think.

 

other options are welcome

 

It is fine to only replace the rim. Even bent spokes are OK to re-use if you re-use them in the same postion. In other words, tape the new identical rim to the old rim and transfer the spokes from one rim to the other, one by one. That way you wont change their position in the hub or their "set" (bend).

 

Even bent spokes are OK to straighten and re-use. It is not OK to re-bend and re-set the angle of spokes at the stressed areas, such as elbows. On the shafts it doesn't matter.

 

After a couple of thousand kms with a heavy rider, the wheel has proven itself and the spokes will most likely last indenifitely in anyway. A poorly-built wheel whould have broken spokes by now. Therefore there is no reason to not reuse what you have. Put the savings into your pension fund.

 

You would routinely replace the nipples on a MTB when doing a rim transplant like that. Not because the old nipples will now suddenly fail (unless they're the inferior aluminium kind) but because their threads will be dirty and cleaing them is not worth the hassle.

 

You also ask about Revolution spokes. My recommendation is to keep your old spokes and the Revolution issue is thus of academic interest only.

 

Revolution spokes have been cold-worked a lot more than double butted spokes and are more durable. Not stronger (thicker wire has more tensile strength than their equivalent thinner cousings), but more durable. In other words, they'll last longer. Their slender shafts aso flex more and thus protect the vulnerable J-bends and threads more than on thicker spokes. Revolution spokes are superior in every way, even for jump bikes. Revolution spokes are superior in every way except ease-of-build. They're a bitch to build with because they twist extremely easily.

 

Jumping your bike doesn't put strain on the spokes at all. It does put strain on the rim. Landing relaxes the bottom few spokes momentarily and does nothing in the tension of all the other spokes in the wheel. Therefore jump bikes don't need thicker spokes, they just need more spoke tension.

 

The Mavic X819 tubeless rim is inferior in many ways:

 

1) The spoke affixing mechanism is inelegant and collects dirt which makes later truing difficult.

 

2) The nipple retaining collar is an aluminium-on-aluminium joint which is a corrosion bomb waiting to explode. These collars often just rot off. Coastal riders in particular should avoid this technology. The same goes for Ksyrium and other Mavic rims with nipples that screw into the rim.

 

3) It is hard anodised, a coating that propagates cracks.

 

4) The threading method is not suitable to stressed areas like around a spoke. It's ragged edges are stress risers.

 

5) True tubeless offers nothing over Tubeless Ready (standard rim with airtight rim strips of sorts). It only adds costs and complexity.

[Weight Weenie]

'5) True tubeless offers nothing over Tubeless Ready (standard rim with airtight rim strips of sorts). It only adds costs and complexity.'

Can't agree with you more

[Topwine]

 

 

Jumping your bike doesn't put strain on the spokes at all. It does put strain on the rim. Landing relaxes the bottom few spokes momentarily and does nothing in the tension of all the other spokes in the wheel. Therefore jump bikes don't need thicker spokes, they just need more spoke tension.

 

 

 

Please enlighten me how force is transferred to the rims, if not through the spokes ?