service of wheel bearings

[MaxUmis]

I use Park grease on everything including the miniature bearings of my chopper.

 

JB will tell you any grease will work as the low rotational speed of a bicycle does not warrant special greases.

 

It just feels better to use bicycle specific grease on a bicycle.

Sounds like a "2 ply" debate to me...

[Cassie]

I use Park grease on everything including the miniature bearings of my chopper.

 

JB will tell you any grease will work as the low rotational speed of a bicycle does not warrant special greases.

 

It just feels better to use bicycle specific more expensive grease on a bicycle.

There, I fixed it for you....

 

grease is grease is grease....expecially when it comes to MTB...just change it often enough and no problems whatsoever!!

[Mojoman]

I have the cheap hubs, Shimano 475's. There are no seals on these and after around 200km of riding the grease is black gunk (less if I ride in rain and mud, also remember I was my bike after every three rides or as needed), I have used the Pedros stuff, some marine grease from Midas (white stuff in a tube, around R40) and normal wheel bearing grease and I must say the wheel bearing grease seems fine and is the most cost effective. I can just pack it in and not worry about how much it costs. The hubs have done just under 2700km since I bought the bike and there is a faint sign of pitting on the cones which I have lightly buffed down with some fine wet paper. Hope to get some more K's out of them...

[Mojoman]

I forgot to add that once you had the hang of servicing the bearings its a pretty quick job.

[greatwhite]

As Johan says, no fixed time frame, just a function of contamination. However, if in doubt, clean is but make sure you put it back together properly - ie. you don't just tighten up. breloading bearings (overtightening) is a nice, quick, easy way to get early bearing failure. In simplest terms, tighten up the cones just enough to take out any play, but no more.

 

As I have said on other posts in the tech Q & A on the same subject: Normal wheel bearing grease will do fine - the bearing speeds are so low on a bike wheel that viscous drag and other factors that complicate high speed bearing grease selction are a non issue. Setting up bearing properly and removing contamination will make much more difference than changing grease grade.

 

With regards to waterproof grease - NOT all greases are waterproof. non waterproof greases will form an emultion when water is added then hydrolysis starts resulting in a change of viscosity and loss of lubrication properties. That said, regardless of whether waterproof or otherwise grease is used, a good portion of water in the bearing cavity is going to cause trouble eventaully, so if in doubt, clean it out....

 

And leave assembly grease alone - just 'cause it looks cool, doesn't mean it is right for the job

[Reden]

http://www.bike4.eu/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/haunebu_1.jpg

 

is this a hub - or is there more detail I am missing ?

That's a piece of art or sometimes crudly described as a hub.

[Johan Bornman]

Further to what GW said above, assembly grease is not lubricating grease. The silver grease you saw is more than likely nickel paste - a more expensive version of copper compound. Nickel and copper have a low shear strength and thus assists in undoing threads after a prolonged period.

 

Assembly grease does have a role on bicycles - anywhere you find steel bolts in alu, or even alu on alu, some copper paste will go a long way to saving you grief later on.

 

Nickel paste is too expensive and doesn't offer anything copper doesn't in this application.

 

I don't like the term "Waterproof" when it comes to grease. Mechanics think they can lather grease onto anything and make the bike waterproof. A particularly big mistake is to flood labyrinth seals with grease. This creates exactly the opposite effect they think they achieve.

 

Besides, even so-called marine greases with calcium soaps will still emulsify in a bicycle hub with water in.

 

A good indication of water in your hubs is a crackling sound from the hubs one day after they were compromised with water. It sounds like grass burning but soon turn into a rumble. The crackly stage lasts only a day or so.

 

Listen to what your bike tells you.

[Slowbee]

another question while on this .. you dont need to take off the spokes to service a hub ?

[Mecnic]

another question while on this .. you dont need to take off the spokes to service a hub ?

 

No usualy only the cassette needs to be removed on the rear wheel to make access to the cones easier if the rotors are in the way thay to must be taken off aswell, (only if they are in the way though), and clean them well afterward incase you got some grease on them.

[Guest Big H]

There, I fixed it for you....

 

grease is grease is grease....expecially when it comes to MTB...just change it often enough and no problems whatsoever!!

 

I bought my leetle tube of Park grease along time ago with a grease gun..... best way to apply it sparingly.

 

How tins did you buy to come to your answer?????

 

I also have a grease gun for a tube of copper slip grease and one for a tube of white moly grease.