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Racing ralphs


crasher

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I was thinking of getting a set of Racing Ralphs

 

CRC have the UST version on sale at 430 rand each

 

Currently using WTB weirwolfs UST which are very solid and punture/damage resistant

 

The WTB's are just about 800g's each the Ralphs only 650g's

 

The sale price plus reducing about 300g's of rotational mass makes it very tempting

 

I was just interested to know from users out there how they found the toughness/punture resistance of the Ralphs to be as the WTB's are pretty bulletproof would like the 300g saving but not at the expense of reliability

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For me the equation is like this

Go for a piss before you ride and use punture resistant tires cause you will lose the 300g's and you wont have to stop for 5 minutes and repair split tire.

 

Just my 2c worth

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For me the equation is like this

Go for a piss before you ride and use punture resistant tires cause you will lose the 300g's and you wont have to stop for 5 minutes and repair split tire.

 

Just my 2c worth

 

This man talks common sense... i agree totally!

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jip and I have been on a tire crusade as of late trying to find a nice grippy front tie and have to say those werewolfs grips like s#$t on a woolen blanket.

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For me the equation is like this

Go for a piss before you ride and use punture resistant tires cause you will lose the 300g's and you wont have to stop for 5 minutes and repair split tire.

 

Just my 2c worth

 

 

Yep...something I have been saying for a long time already is exactly that biggrin.gif

 

 

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300g off rotational mass will make a BIG difference.

 

Luke, remember that the 500ml(or grams) of pee-pee in you bladder is already moving, but the weight on the outside of the wheel is "amplified" by the force of torque (for a lack of better term). You drive you rear wheel from it's center but the power is put on the ground a long way from the center of your wheel.

 

Think about it like this:

Stand with your arm stretched out in front of you, palm facing up, for 3 hours.

Now, where would you want the weight of your pee-pee? In your hand or in you bladder?

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MaxUmis

 

100% correct from a scientific perpesctive, but what is the rotational mass of a tire with a 10cm long gash in it?

The answer is the same as the speed of the bike at that point ZERO for approoximatley 5 minutes.

 

I am not disputing the benifts of weight reduction on a bicycle, but unless the rider is perfoming at 100% of the thier possible output, the best place to improve time/weight is on yourself.Then and only then do savings of 300g come into play. If we were talking about changing a complete bike and saving 1,5-2kgs then it is a no brainer.

I used to buy all the lightest stuff and spend thousands on new technology trying to save and extra 500g only to realise that you cant buy a better time you earn it.

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Guys...if we talking about grams, we must not refer to this as the weight...

It is the mass, the weight is a vector and is measured in Newtons, and a direction needs to be specified (although with weight, a direction of towards the center of the earth is implied).

 

Sorry...I have a thing for physics tongue.gif

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Go have a look at the rubena tires at cycle lab! It is light and have decent puncture resistance.

It is also not that expensive at R485 a tire.

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MaxUmis

 

100% correct from a scientific perpesctive, but what is the rotational mass of a tire with a 10cm long gash in it?

The answer is the same as the speed of the bike at that point ZERO for approoximatley 5 minutes.

 

I am not disputing the benifts of weight reduction on a bicycle, but unless the rider is perfoming at 100% of the thier possible output, the best place to improve time/weight is on yourself.Then and only then do savings of 300g come into play. If we were talking about changing a complete bike and saving 1,5-2kgs then it is a no brainer.

I used to buy all the lightest stuff and spend thousands on new technology trying to save and extra 500g only to realise that you cant buy a better time you earn it.

 

I do agree that the place where you can save the biggest amount of grams is your own body, BUT saving 300g on the frame/calipers/shifters/saddles/posts/stems of a bike and saving 300g on the outer edge of your wheels are 2 worlds apart.

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I have KENDA Nevegal non UST which I am running tubeless with Mavic 317 rims. They dont roll great and they are heavy but they are very cheap and bomb proof...

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Had a set of Nobby Nicks on my bike and really liked the grip/traction but they punctured a lot - with big holes that wouldn't seal. I would imagine the Racing Ralphs would be even more vulnerable.

Running Contis now with far fewer issues.

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Maxxis Larsen TT was great...had it on the back, very few punctures and good grip on most surfaces I rode...gravel, forest loamy type soil and hard packed stuff.

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