RodTi Posted December 18, 2010 Posted December 18, 2010 (edited) Hello all... Realise that some of the above probably touches on points/questions raised in other threads - but figured it might be a good idea to group some of these together... Besides - the SS forums was looking a bit thin, so thought I'd throw this out there... PS - please make any suggestions regarding the poll, and assuming I can, I'll gladly edit! Edited December 19, 2010 by RodTi
RodTi Posted December 18, 2010 Author Posted December 18, 2010 By the way - counted the teeth on my 27 speed cassette today, in an effort to identify what gearing I should be in - for the purposes of practicing for when I make the switch... Figured I would start off on 32-18, since I'm no mountain-goat. 4th cog up at the back, has 17 teeth.5th cog up at the back, has 20.3rd cog up = 15 teeth. So forgive me for asking me this, but those suggesting a 32-16/18 - what cassette is that from? Or rather, are these "SS" specific cogs? Alternatively, I'm thinking the difference of 1 "tooth" between a 17, instead of 16, or 15, instead of 16 - is probably not that significant? Any comments?
Guest agteros Posted December 19, 2010 Posted December 19, 2010 http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/ @ cadence of 90, and using that as an average cadence for the 94.7 (distance of 97.4km) gives the following: 32x14 = 26.6km/h, 94.7 time = 03:39:42change of 7.10% 32x15 = 24.8km/h, 94.7 time = 03:55:39change of 6.70% 32x16 = 23.3km/h, 94.7 time = 04:10:49change of 6.30% 32x17= 21.9km/h, 94.7 time = 04:26:51change of 5.90% 32x18 = 20.7km/h, 94.7 time = 04:42:19 That is about 30 minutes difference over the distance between a 32x15 and 32x17...
Flowta Posted December 19, 2010 Posted December 19, 2010 I'm using a 34-18 ratio. Try looking at MTB cassettes for other sprocket sizes. Also try you LBS some have a pile of old sprockets and cassettes floating around.
eggsovereasywithteandtoast Posted December 19, 2010 Posted December 19, 2010 Bit of clarity please:Are you using cassettes without derailers? manually pulling the chain over every now and then?
Riding in Africa Posted December 19, 2010 Posted December 19, 2010 After trying a few different ratio,s i have ended up with a 34x18 which is like a 32x16, but i can climb better and do not spin out on the flats so quickly???Still have to walk up very steep climbs. Just remember that if you are going for Horizontal dropouts which are best you will need to use different length chains when swopping out ratio,s.If you go for SS Spockets they have deeper teeth so use a SS chain as it sits better on them. Also trying to work out your speed @ 90 rpm is not going to work. i was very surprised at my avg rpm it fell to around 60 for a race, I know being a FOB does not help but thought i was good for at least 80 avg!!!!
RodTi Posted December 19, 2010 Author Posted December 19, 2010 Bit of clarity please:Are you using cassettes without derailers? manually pulling the chain over every now and then? Oh no, nothing as drastic as that... I'm simply trying to keep my fully geared bike in a 32-17 ratio for as long as possible on my rides now... I will often change without even realising it - force of habit - but when I become aware of it, I change back to the 32-17... Trying to work out in advance what gearing ratio would suit my environs for when I make the swop next year - and wanted some clarity on the need to swop cogs etc... Agteros - very useful comparison that, applying Sheldon to the 94.7 - appears to make a much bigger difference than I thought possible - thanks!
RodTi Posted December 19, 2010 Author Posted December 19, 2010 After trying a few different ratio,s i have ended up with a 34x18 which is like a 32x16, but i can climb better and do not spin out on the flats so quickly???Still have to walk up very steep climbs. Thanks man - included at 34 tooth blade as an option now - realised that this has been mentioned as an option a few times, so would be interesting to see how many/if any other Hubbers also run it... Will definitely keep this one in mind, as me losing momentum climbing hills is pure poetry in (slow)motion....
EigerSA Posted December 19, 2010 Posted December 19, 2010 Shelldon also rode a 1X3 as well, manually moving the chain when the terrain called for it. I stick to a 36X16 for pretty much everything, slowly but surely I find I'm definitely climbing hills that much better. I do have one complaint though, for too often on the flats I'll be spinning my butt off and I'll be forced to move over for the old guy on his game special that's charging past me thanks to his steeped gearing... aargh, guess I'm just going to have to get a steeper ratio or learn to spin faster!
Wyatt Earp Posted December 19, 2010 Posted December 19, 2010 I stick to a 36X16 for pretty much everythingI wish I had your power.
EigerSA Posted December 19, 2010 Posted December 19, 2010 I wish I had your power. Ooops sorry, supposed to be 34X16,
mtbvip Posted January 7, 2011 Posted January 7, 2011 You need to specify ratios for 26" and 29" wheels in your poll....
deanbean Posted January 8, 2011 Posted January 8, 2011 I'm in a bit of a quandary, I changed my singlespeed to a 1x9 with a 36 chainring and a 11x34 cassette for the holidays at the beach. Now I'm back at home and need to change back to SS, but I don't want to change the chainring again, I used a 32x18 before, but the equivelent is a 36x20 according to, Rabbit, a singlespeed and fixed-gear cycling calculator. however the 36x18 is the equivalent of a 32x16. So after all that, what is everyones take on the difference between a 32x16 and 32x18, especially when it comes to hills.
RodTi Posted January 11, 2011 Author Posted January 11, 2011 I'm in a bit of a quandary, I changed my singlespeed to a 1x9 with a 36 chainring and a 11x34 cassette for the holidays at the beach. Now I'm back at home and need to change back to SS, but I don't want to change the chainring again, I used a 32x18 before, but the equivelent is a 36x20 according to, Rabbit, a singlespeed and fixed-gear cycling calculator. however the 36x18 is the equivalent of a 32x16. So after all that, what is everyones take on the difference between a 32x16 and 32x18, especially when it comes to hills. Cool calculator.. Thought I'd bump this, to see what the views are...
RodTi Posted January 11, 2011 Author Posted January 11, 2011 You need to specify ratios for 26" and 29" wheels in your poll.... Would like to - but cannot add any more questions...
MoreTrails Posted January 14, 2011 Posted January 14, 2011 I'm in a bit of a quandary, I changed my singlespeed to a 1x9 with a 36 chainring and a 11x34 cassette for the holidays at the beach. Now I'm back at home and need to change back to SS, but I don't want to change the chainring again, I used a 32x18 before, but the equivelent is a 36x20 according to, Rabbit, a singlespeed and fixed-gear cycling calculator. however the 36x18 is the equivalent of a 32x16. So after all that, what is everyones take on the difference between a 32x16 and 32x18, especially when it comes to hills. 32x18 - it hurts and you get to the top of the hill32x16 - it hurts, you *** off, pop a knee and you get to the top of the hill 32x18 for Cape Town terrain is actually perfect I find, you pedal to the top of 99% of trails here (without exploding) and you can keep up with all but the super fast on the DH coming down.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now