Skewer Slipping out of Dropout

[Wedge]

I've been having this annoying re-occurrence of late.

 

when ever I brake hard, the skewer on the front wheel tends to slip from its original position. Not enough to slip out of the drop out, but enough to pull the wheel skew.

 

This happened with my Tektro Rotors and even more so with the Hope rotors.

 

Is there anything I can do about this(except for going through-axle).

Is there a sort of QR clamp to stop the skewer from doing this?

 

Thanks

Wedge

[AndreZA]

I don't know where the wheel can move to while it is in the drop out. It can only go up or down. And I can only see it moving up as the force of you pushing down will force it that way. Then either you are not seating the wheel properly or you are using very bad/cheap skewers.

[Wedge]

I don't know where the wheel can move to while it is in the drop out. It can only go up or down. And I can only see it moving up as the force of you pushing down will force it that way. Then either you are not seating the wheel properly or you are using very bad/cheap skewers.

I reckon the brake-force will move the wheel down, no? The disc is moving anti clock-wise, with the caliper on the 3 o-clock position where force is being pushed up, when the brake is applied, the force will pivot causing the skewer to be forced down.

 

So you think the skewers are to blame? Mmm, been wanting a set of Momsen skewers...

[PhilipV]

Are the skewers inserted the right way?

QR lever on the disc side. I used to ride mine the wrong way, and had the wheel loosening itself twice on the same downhill. Change the skewer orientation and never had an issue again.

[Wedge]

Are the skewers inserted the right way?

QR lever on the disc side. I used to ride mine the wrong way, and had the wheel loosening itself twice on the same downhill. Change the skewer orientation and never had an issue again.

YES! I think mine is wrong, I have the skewer arm on the opposite side of the disc. Will try that and report back.

 

Thanks Philip!

[Big J-WP]

Not the skewer that is the problem, I think your axle is to long.

[Big J-WP]

Not the skewer that is the problem, I think your axle is to long.

[The Drongo]

I've been having this annoying re-occurrence of late.

 

when ever I brake hard, the skewer on the front wheel tends to slip from its original position. Not enough to slip out of the drop out, but enough to pull the wheel skew.

 

This happened with my Tektro Rotors and even more so with the Hope rotors.

 

Is there anything I can do about this(except for going through-axle).

Is there a sort of QR clamp to stop the skewer from doing this?

 

Thanks

Wedge

 

Sheesh Wedge !!!

 

I pi333d myself laughing at your opening comment .

 

Most Americans would be litigating by now, most Australians would have someone in jail, and a new sign alongside cycling tracks everywhere warning of a DANGEROUS RE-OCCURANCE.

 

Stop riding for a minute, 'cause you might bruise yourself just now!

 

Are your skewers exposed or closed cam skewers?

Have you checked the teeth on the acorn nuts to see that they are not worn off/away?

If the skewers are exposed cam, have you checked that the plastic (!!) disk between the arm and the teeth has not rotated through 90 degrees and the cam is binding on the disc at the high points and not in the valley?

 

If you have exposed cam skewers, toss them and buy some decent ones. It is after all a very small component, and all that lies between you and a large number of salty tears.

 

You are right that the forces generated by disc brakes can loosen skewers over time. Check often.

 

General practice is to place the skewer arm on the left of the bike. Rotor side.

[The Drongo]

Not the skewer that is the problem, I think your axle is to long.

 

 

Pls Explain dude ???

[David Marshall]

Not the skewer that is the problem, I think your axle is to long.

 

 

I agree - also check that the portion of the axel protruding out passed the cones is the same on both ends of the axel - count the exposed thread - it should be the same on both sides

[The Drongo]

Another thing.

 

If you are doing the kind of riding you show in your avatar, then you should be on a solid through axle, or maxle.

 

Besides being safer you won't believe the handling difference.

 

Just an EXPENSIVE upgrade. Fork + Hub etc.

Edited February 9, 2011 by The Drongo

[Wedge]

Another thing.

 

If you are doing the kind of riding you show in your avatar, then you should be on a solid through axle, or maxle.

 

Besides being safer you won't believe the handling difference.

 

Just an EXPENSIVE upgrade. Fork + Hub etc.

Thanks again for the solid advice.

 

I do have exposed skewers. As for rding like in my avatar, nope, thats just a cool pic snatched of the web. Mostly cross country and some medium trials.

 

I will have a look at the skewer, but I fear it needs replacement with a better unit.

[The Drongo]

Pic attached.

 

Avoid 'weight weenie' skewers with aluminium teeth.

[Wedge]

Pic attached.

 

Avoid 'weight weenie' skewers with aluminium teeth.

I did some window shopping and I see most skewers are either/or Aluminium and Open ended ones.

[Johan Bornman]

You've had some very good advice here from Drongo and company. Use it.

 

The world's best skewer is a Shimano skewer. Learn how to tighten it properly. It needs to be far tighter than most people realise. New Shimano skewers come with good, clear instructions.

 

There is an ejection force with disc brakes. However, that is not enough to allow a wheel to come out from one or two rides, provided the skewer is tight, and in good condition.

 

 

Today, most forks have lawyers lips that prevent the skewer from sliding down the drop-outs, but as I said, a good skewer does not need that. This ejecting action is well documented and at the time when it was heaviliy discussed on the US forums, it was agreed that the problem occurs after multiple rides without repositioning the wheel. From what you say, it is clear that your skewer is in a poor condition and not tight enough.

 

Lightweight skewers don't cut it. You need a steel shaft and enclosed cam.

[Goodbadugly]

The best qr skewers I have used so far are the XT's.

DT swiss similar to the "exposed" ones posted by Drongo are rubbish.

A2Z ones (titanium nogal) are less than good. Read crap.

Do not try to save weight on skewers for MTB. You might end up with titanium fixtures in your facial bones.

Also look at the contact area where the skewer grips onto the frame. (Lets call it the teeth of the skewer) If it is made of a soft aluminum type material, how do you expect it to grip/ bite the frame?

Edited February 9, 2011 by Goodbadugly