techguy

Have been riding Supersonic Mountain Kings for the last year on my ZTR Olympic rims, Like WW says they take a little bit more effort to seal them but well worth it. Also look where you ride!

Boesheild T9, developed by Boeing and adapted for us... Lasts forever and doesn't leave a mess!

That RD is meant for a DH bike and will only fit if you buy the hub to go with it, the axle bolts thru the frame and holds the RD in place. The hub width is also too wide being 150mm compared to the standard 135mm. So long story short...No it won't work. As far as I can remember the peace is a SS specific frame.

Hey if Trek and Bontrager can get it right then why can't Specialized? Don't get me wrong I'm a huge Specialized fan but if they push the boundries then this kind of thing can happen...If you look at the Trek Speed concept with the intergrated brake calipers in the fork , the UCI hasn't made a ruling about those either...

I dunno if I would trust a frame that light...

Thats the set I have, all the "lightening holes" drilled all over the place...

Also remember the Cinelli Spinaci bars, like mini clip on aero bars that the UCI allowed for a season or two? I still have a set!

Talking of hydraulic shifting does anyone recall Shimano came out with a DH groupset called Airlines if I remember correctly... @Eldron, I think the guys that came up zero gravity brakes are the same plonkers that made the Delta brakes as the zero gravity's have the same properties...

Square taper BB axles - can never get them tight enough and are a mission to remove... ProFlex forks - Hit a bump and the whole steering geometry changes, see also Girvin flex stem. Unified Rear triangles - Old Treks and Gary Fishers, the GF Joshua and the Trek Y frame, see also suspension seat posts. Cantilever Brakes - never worked properly, always needed adjustment to try to get them better than K@K and it took HOURS to adjust them.

The 819 rims would retail in the region of R1000 ea so they may not be an option at this budget...I'm not too sure of the prices on CRC...

No body landed on the moon, its a conspiracy... I would rather ride Dura ace for 5 years and replace the levers after every 5 yrs than ride campy and have to service the levers every 6 weeks (exagerration) I had Campy at one stage and every 6months or so I had to replace the synchro rings and springs in the shifters...

If Ihad no morals, I would make a bussiness of this...someone somewhere must be doing this to make money...how many of us take note of the serial no's on our frames? so someone could steal your bike, wait till the heats off then sell it "legitimatly" through the hub or for example bike bay.co.za...think about it...

OR they do a 3.6mm x 292mm zip tie...

I get mine from Wurth, have been for the last 5 years.... 5x350mm beat that...techguy2010-02-19 02:59:52

It'll never be the same after Epic...

At 20% gradient it would be quicker to walk with a 22x36...

Johan if you read my response I said in my personal experience, and I did have the joy of reading the thread of the various oils and how this one has a specific gravity of who cares etc. What I meant is that I have used Motorex 7wt oil in a fox fork before and the lockout refused to work and there was no rebound damping whatsoever, so I drained the oil and put the fox stuff in and hey presto everything worked perfectly, So thinking this was a fluke I tried it on the next 3 forks I did that week and all with the same results, So in my personal experience...

Probably needs a service, But normally the spring in the fork needs to be greased, I've found that the spring can rub against the inside of the fork and cause the creak, so smother it in grease and reassemble...

Then they may have used the wrong oil? I have found that even using Motorex 7wt oil is not the same as the fox 7wt oil, I don't want to open a can of worms but I believe that fox oil must be used in fox products...It is also my personal experience.

OK thats cool, but I have seen frames crack becuase the headset cups have been hammered in between two planks of wood and nowhere near a weld...

Ya R450 is a bit steep R350 for the parts sounds better, If you send your fork away that makes more sense cuz there's a labour and shipping charge involved... @Coenie If the lockout doesn't work then it means the o-rings need replacement, ideally you need an axle vise to loosen all the parts of the damper assembly...

I'm sure it works... Which is better? they all work....

Look these work, they are fiddly to set up but work... the euro pros use them especially for the rough roads they ride on ie cobble stones etc I personally have never felt the need for one...

Depends on opinion, the Sram gives a more mechanical "clunky" feel, where the Shimano has a more subtle "smooth" feel, some say the Sram is better in mud but having run Shimano for the last 15 years of my riding I have never had a problem in mud... techguy2010-02-17 03:49:35