RobbyB

Thanks for the input...but to me a wheelset could be easily damaged in transit if badly packed. A bike shop generally has bike wheel boxes and the knowledge of how to pack them correctly. They can also inspect the wheels and advise the buyer if the wheels are in an acceptable condition. It will also avoid the catastrophe as happened a few weeks ago when someone sold a set of 26" wheels whose hubs were sufficiently pitted to cause a lekker barney in the chat group...

Sometimes you want to buy some "old stuff" but haven't got the ability to check it out first. It doesn't do away with BikeHub Pay. Just larger items like frames and wheelsets that need an inspection before sending... I haven't had any bad purchases on BH but I'm just planning to keep it that way...

Thought that I would find out which Bike Shops in RSA could assist with a SALE/Purchase far away from one's home town (I'm in KZN). I have a seller (in Mitchells Plain) who doesn't want the schlep of packaging and sending the wheelset and I'd prefer for a Bike shop, with their experience, to confirm the quality of my purchase and to be able to package the wheelset and send them via a reputable courier service. He refused to sell them to me previously (because of having to Courier them) but I see that he has them up for sale again. As I live in KZN and want to buy a wheelset in Cape Town then could I rely on a bike shop to check out the wheels and give me a report/ maybe even a hub service and then a payment of all costs for - Service/ Payment to owner for the wheels/ payment of courier costs etc. I also don't want to go through the schlep of purchasing an old wheelset and receiving them and not being able to return them if they were faulty or receiving damaged wheels through bad packaging. Someone suggested CycloSport in Kuils River to check out this wheelset so I'll give them a call tomorrow to see if they'll act as an intermediary. I did use a cycle shop in Seapoint some years ago that did offer a good service (fairly elite shop -cant remember their name) but they are too far from Mitchells Plain where the wheels are. Maybe we can form a list of Bike Shops that will offer this service to Hubbers.

One would assume that if you are SELLING items on BHub that you WILL give a prompt reply to those hubbers who are interested in purchasing. Nothing worse than seeing something that you want to buy and the seller doesn't look at his incoming messages FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS - it's happened to me. NOTHING SO ANNOYING! It must also be kept in mind that because the buyer is making purchasing decisions on a couple of (sometime lousy/ out of focus/ wrong angle/ deceptively taken - hiding defects) photos that it is difficult to make ones mind up as to whether you are going to commit to the (sometimes dodgy) purchase. Nothing so annoying than making an offer on an item to be sent the message - Oh! I sold it already - hence the question - IS IT STILL AVAILABLE...a perfectly good request seeing that many Hubbers sell items and don't mark them as sold or delete them. (OP - from the responses so far please change the title of this chat to Tourette's Syndrome/ Personality Disorder Group therapy...🤣 )

At least we will be furthest away from where World War 3 starts...🧨😝⚔🏴🔥

Its so hard to suggest a particular bike. Suggest a Large, aluminium or steel bike. Depending on the style of riding you want to do, a hardtail might suit you but a Full suspension is more comfortable & usually easier to ride over harder terrain (but a lot more expensive to purchase & maintain). Most new riders start with a hardtail then upgrade or trade-in for a dual suss if they are hooked. Prices are high and stock (new) is low at the moment. Suggest you shop around. Go into a couple of bike shops and learn something about what they have to offer you keeping in mind that they will prefer to sell you stock that they are holding. This might mean that are trying to sell you a bike that is not 100% for you, so be aware. Good luck...

I would love to see a shoot out between the Orbea Oiz and the new Lapierre XR 2022.

Consider moulded hand grips that make a round bar infinitely more comfortable. Drop bars (road bike - round shape) can also be hard on the hands (you've just got more places to move them around on to change position to provide relief).

My suggestion is Ardent 2.35 Front, Ardent Race 2.25 Rear on a dual sus that will see a range of technical and trails (after 5 years haven't got one puncture - but that can have more to do with luck than anything else)! I've found the 2.4 to be heavier (although more plush) but can feel bouncy if a little soft. I'm only 68kg's (weight) and use Aspens on my lightweight HT for trails. They are lightweight tyres and the tread is sufficient for most trails but will be more likely to lose grip on a very sandy uphill/downhill. Just don't choose too low a gear on a steep hill otherwise you'll spin the wheels. Good luck with your choices and upcoming race...

Hi Erika, the only strain on the bike on an IDT (IMO) is the BB and chain/cassette. I have battled to get smooth gear changing on an Elite Direto. Sometimes I get caught out in the wrong gear at the beginning of a hill climb and changing up can be quite noisy (under strain - 11 speed)( maybe 12 speed is better under strain). I even changed from a used SRAM cassette to a new Shimano cassette but there was no change. Even my LBS couldn't help here. I find riding hills much easier in real life but it feels a lot tougher on my IDT. It is correctly set up and properly calibrated (the separate crank power meter is pretty spot on with the trainers built in power meter). What I do feel takes the strain on the hills is the BB so if you're hill climbing a lot might need a bit of grease more regularly. Do check your rear QR is tight as a loose one could give you a squeak. Lastly...find the right software that you enjoy coz IDT'ing can get boring if you're not enthused to ride!

Carbon bars are a must (IMO). You could also consider a carbon seat-post. Being on the lighter sider I have found then to add much compliance - from Ritchey, Giant and Spez bars all bought on BikeHub for less than 1K ea. I have Ergo grips (moulded to fit the hand giving more support) on the straighter bars - they work well and cut the fatigue and pain from a round bar/grip. Just make sure that you have a torque wrench. Your clamping on a carbon bar can't exceed the specs - otherwise...CRACK!

My last post was 2 July 2021 - search Wilier...

I was going to buy that frame (or very, very similar) but couldn't get a seat post clamp. Tried ASG and searched on-line with no luck. I think that I also asked on BikeHub but no success. One could be made if they had a clamp in the hand to get dimensions from but couldn't find one. Good luck trying to find one...

I'm definitely allergic to low fat Levo...😂

I was using Zwift...but also tried Rouvy (which has really improved lately and is cheaper). Rouvy has won out for me. I enjoy the real (video'ed) scenarios (not CGI). I downloaded them onto my PC/Laptop so they don't chew up data every time I ride. More folk using it and enjoy the competing against the other riders whether its a 12km sprint or a 78km long ride. So no, not using Zwift anymore.

LOOK at this available on BikeHUB: (Search Yamaha) Reliable second generation tuning chip for your e-bike with Yamaha motor. SpeedBox 2.0 tuning chip enables to suppress the speed limiter on your electric bike. After the chip is installed your e-bike’s display shows real data, such as maximum and average speed, daily mileage and cruising range. E-bike electric assistance switches off with this chip when reaching the speed of 50 km/h.

Check out these two items in Buy & Sell For Sale: Search for: 2021 signal s930 - this shows how people buy cheap Hard tails then want to sell them to upgrade! A possible beginners bike: https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/hardtail-mountain-bikes/533578/silverback-sola-4#:~:text=Report this ad-,Silverback Sola 4,-Eastern Cape%2C Gqeberha

Please read the "Petition: Bring Back the Classifieds Comments" in the Forums. It can give good insight into the shenanigans of certain sellers.

Cycling is a great sport and at least you don't have to pay monthly stabling fees. Sounds like a hardtail MTB would be a good choice and it you bought an extra set of wheels for slick or gravel tyres then you have two bikes in one. Just remember for each new set of wheels you purchase you'll need to purchase another two brake rotors (front & back) and cassette (maybe another 2K). A dual suspension bike is a lot more expensive (purchase and maintenance) but gives a much more forgiving/comfortable ride. Trouble is that the more you like the sport, the more you will want to upgrade to "improve" your ride. This includes carbon accessories (handlebars/seatpost) that lighten the bike and reduce the vibration/jarring nature of metal alloys. Carbon frames are lighter/easier to propel forward and make hill climbing easier. If you are lightweight (with maybe < avg. strength) then I suggest a carbon frame / if you are a heavyweight (with maybe > avg. strength) then steel/aluminium is more advisable (IMO). A comfortable saddle is an essential (can take a bit of experimenting with different saddles), especially for the ladies. A relief channel running down the length is a good idea. As a couple you need to identify your competitive/social riding desires. Often the guy is more competitive (this is a generalisation) and is inclined to want to race, the lady not as much (but the reverse could be true). Hopefully you both have a similar outlooks as to what you want to get out of cycling. MTB'ing and road/gravel are very different in skill levels required so take your time before you attempt any tricky/technical MTB trails. All second hand bikes have potential issues - eg. like a lack of maintenance or cracks in the frame. Some new bikes could also have potential flaws but you do have a warranty - if the company will stand by it. Get assistance (not a salesman) to check out bikes and to do a test ride before you purchase. I have bought LOTS of stuff off BikeHub and consider it a great way to get into cycling or to upgrade your bikes. Please be aware that stocks are low and prices are high at the moment - even old bikes are being sold for "a pretty penny". Research will be your best bet in getting to know about different types of bikes and remember that bike size is of paramount importance coz riding comfort/position is absolutely essential. Good luck with your endeavours...

So, are you trying to say that.... a Real Man rides a motor-bike...?

Smack your own lips... we're not that close...yet! ...😂

Drink and Texting is not advisable. Hope your not im your driving... Lipice for your ack lips...maybe?

E-Bikes - Now E-walkers...What next?

Now stop putting those evil analogue thoughts in my head...👿... you never know what I might try next!

Let's not get confused about the OP's confusion. He asks:- but do E-bike records belong on strava? ( among normal pedaling records and people who drive their cars on roads with their garmins still on). He says AMONG. That means mixed in with normal bike riders Strava records. I don't think he is aware (as are some/many E-Bike riders) that there is a selectable choice on Strava for logging an E-Bike ride. Also a trimming choice (if you get into your car without switching off your GPS tracker and clock up a bunch of KOM's on the way home0 where you can shorten your ride to just the part where you were riding your bicycle. Also a choice to make your ride private (if it screwed up your data, mid ride, and had you riding a segment at 1293 km/h) Does this close the subject maybe???