TyronLab

I've had a lot of luck using an old worn chain, wrapped around the cassette, clamped in my bench vice as a chain whip. One of the best get-out-of-buying-a-special-tool hacks I've attempted.

Massive congrats to @WaldoZ, taking his first Transbaviaans win! I'm proud to say that I'm far, far removed family of his, and he towed me to my first TB completion in 2019. How the hell you manage an average speed of 27kph for the whole thing is beyond me... @pedal menace Sounds like it was a great day out, and an ideal first outing with your kid. Congrats! My FOMO has now ramped up substantially...

Hardtail, SHPAH, rigid all the way. Look, I was glad I was running rigid, it was muddy from start to finish, and by the end most moving parts had some screech/whine/grind/slosh to them. Some okes pressure washing the bejeesus out of their BBs, linkages, forks and shocks at every water point, straight on, zero mercy, didn't help either. I drenched my chain in wet lube, and went on my merry way. I remember cruising past a guy on a current year Spark RC Team on the MAC, drivetrain sounding like a horror film soundtrack and every suspension action being accompanied by an old-wooden-door shriek, picturing him going "nooit ****** weer nie!" after getting Cyclelab's repair bill. My buddy sacrificed a Force AXS derailleur to the second Fang which forced us to take turns single speeding a 40/20 gear from there onwards, so just finishing felt like an achievement.

+1 For these. Got mine on special at cyclelab, and they've been holding up well. Really grippy and pretty comfy, even with the little to no padding. Keep in mind that the between-finger bits have a lot of airflow. Great for summer riding, but don't expect them to keep you warm in winter. My first pair of Fox Ranger gloves have been through hell, and have faded and are now pink not red, but still solid as a rock. Second pair had a seam tear in 6 months.

Alternatively, a dirt route from the same starting point to Dullstroom that anyone can suggest would also be welcome.

I'm looking at doing a dirt ride out to Dinokeng from Boksburg. Aiming for 180-250km, prioritizing for dirt / safety / interesting landmarks or shops / views / speed in that order. The idea is to take a relatively relaxed pedal and stop at a few lekker padstalle / taverns / cafes for resupply, leave at 0400 and get there at sunset. I've cobbled together a route. I've ridden the bit from the start to Bapsfontein, so I know that well. It's the Bapsfontein - Bronkhorstspruit - Rayton - Cullinan - Dinokeng stretch that I'm not so sure of and open to suggestions on route and the aforementioned padstalle. GPX of my current proposed route attached. 2023-08-07_1248454309_Dinokeng Gravel.gpx

If he doesn't take them I for sure will... There's the magic sauce right there. Long, low, and slack geometry with a steep seat tube is made for technical, rough, fast riding. Thaba has all of that, in buckets. A Tigre at (most of) Modderfontein or a dirt road is going to feel like a sluggish whale. But somewhere like Thaba it will shine. It was the same with my Stache. Point it down something sketch as balls, loosen the grip, bend the knees, and just guide it to roughly where you want to be and it just storms over/through everything at warp speed. The tar road ride there and buck however will likely be a lot slower and less fun than a purebred XC bike.

I have some very serious FOMO, even after last year's less than favourable conditions. Done two, still aiming to get the shield some day. Good luck to everyone riding, it's both easier and harder than you think, and an absolute flippen blast! I was dressed in four layers. Spot the PnP bag sock cover: Don't stress about racing up the MAC, there are some gorgeous views to be had if you stop and take it all in:

I must say, I get that it's considered "alternative", even though you have a local distributor with service kits etc. I've ridden a few bikes, and this is one of the most solid feeling forks I've ridden yet. Little to no flex or play, and is really soft off of the top. Considering what I see Judy Golds go for this is on another level. Thanks for the inputs!

I have a fork from my Silverback Sphere for sale, but I'm not sure it's appropriately priced. I'm a gravel and rigid rider so not up to date on suspension. I'd happily take comments, quite keen to get it sold relatively soon-ish. Thanks! https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/mountain-bike-forks/659393/manitou-magnum-comp-100mm

I have a fork from my Silverback Sphere for sale, but I'm not sure it's appropriately priced. I'm a gravel and rigid rider so not up to date on suspension. I'd happily take comments, quite keen to get it sold relatively soon-ish. Thanks! https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/mountain-bike-forks/659393/manitou-magnum-comp-100mm

Has anyone here done this before? I'm keen to give it a bash, solo category. Just want to get an idea of what the layout/logistics is like for planning purposes. If there's food available, what's on offer and is it throughout the whole 24 hours or just select times? How much camping space is there / what are the odds of not getting a spot?

Such a lekker bike dude! And good on you for braving those conditions. There's something therapeutic about slogging it out solo on an overcast wet day.

Thanks. I'm specifically looking for either Spirgrips or (ideally) innerbarends for a hood-like position on the flat bars. I've used normal barends mounted inboard, but due to them being straight I never got the same effect as a drop bar hood. With hoods you are supporting yourself mostly with the crook between your thumb and index finger.

Casts thread resurrection spell... I'm on the hunt for a set of SQLab Innerbarends, if anyone has some they want to part with let me know!

One of my cycling acquaintances scored a miraculous "deal" at cash converters and paid 50% of the going second hand rate for a Scott Spark 950. He returned a few days later for some reason and the original owner of the bike (which was stolen) there, wanting to buy it back as he'd scored the insurance payout after it got stolen and bank the remaining cash, but was happy with my acquaintance just keeping the bike. Unfortunately, all parties involved here are part of the problem. I think pawn shops are more unscrupulous than we think...

Out of interest, I have a very robust gravel bike for sale at the moment... it's also a little more unique than most other gravel bikes you'll see, running a MTB wheelset. You'll have change left over for a carbon fork and seatpost (or a dropper) too! 😄 https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/gravel-bikes/656151/specialized-sequoia I am not above shameless plugs, especially when I have my eye on another bike and want to get this one sold.

Monstercross builds are much cooler than stock gravel bikes. I have also realized that I'd rather pay the weight penalty and run MTB wheels (even on my gravel bikes) and have that surety that if I do get rowdy I won't break it, so you've got that as bonus with your build too.

While I love Monstercross builds, I don't much see the point of them if you're not running MTB tyres, a dropper, suspension, or something else that's MTB-specific. In that instance you just went through a LOT of hassle to build a gravel bike. Or you are planning on riding through peanut butter mud and need a LOT of tyre clearance permanently. That Epic build is sweet though.

I love that bike so much I'll sommer comment on it again. Next level up - gooi a dropper on that bad boy! And more photos please.

Daar sit jy my nou op my plek... A Knolly and a Santa Cruz aren't same-same though... You don't walk into a fancy bike shop and pick a Knolly up off the floor because it's expensive, you have to go out and build it on purpose. That bike is rad (although I'm still not a fan of coloured chainrings, regardless of which bike it's on)

The sad thing is it's *** ugly. I could handle the lilac frame on its own, but the lilac + kashima + golden chainring + lime green accents on the wheels + uncut steerer is just plain gross. It being a Santa Cruz I'm quite sure some early retiree in St Francis is going to ask his golfing buddies what the cycling equivalent to his X6M is, and he'll end up buying it. Queue the "if it has suspension you might as well buy a hardtail" comments.

@Titan Racing Bikes While we're on the topic, can you clarify the tyre clearance on the latest Switch models? I know the site says 700x50mm, just not sure if that's a 50mm tyre, or 50mm of space for tyres? Also, I know the seattube sticker states 650B x 2.1 would fit. Has this been tested as I'd be interested in running it in that config (I'm assuming the Aluminium and Carbon versions are the same).

Ermahgerd that is awesome! I've had that exact bike in my cart on Rapide, but unfortunately the Tigre's top tube is just way too long for a drop bar setup (for my proportions anyway). Congratulations of being a flippen badass! Edit: Slightly marked down for not aligning your tyre branding to the valve stem / rim branding, but seeing that it's a rad-as-balls local, drop bar, steel rigid bike you're excused.

I've owned a Titan Switch Pro Carbon and a couple of Rook Scouts (as well as other gravel-ish bikes). Gravel is like Autism, it's a spectrum (and, interestingly, also totally not caused by vaccination...). The Switch is more on the road side of the spectrum. Slightly more aggressive geometry, narrower and slicker tyres, and is a very flickable, agile bike to ride. The Scout is more on the MTB side of the spectrum. Bit burlier construction, more relaxed geometry that's a little more confidence inspiring off road, and being steel and having sliding dropouts makes it a bit more versatile. Both are oodles of fun, and I've smashed both on road, gravel and proper MTB rides.