Dirt Tracker

Appreciate the advice thanks. That was just what I was looking for. The frame comes with the adjustable head set so I'll see how it all goes in normal high (aka low) setting before doing too much. I'm not someone who really likes options to tinker with. I prefer to get on and ride and not worry about 'what if I'd slacked it out' and 'what if I'd added 2 more clicks of HSC / LSC / HSR / LSR'. I think I keep getting pulled into the longer-slacker rabbit hole when really what you need for most of the trails in CT is a more trail oriented bike. All the websites and reviews everyone is slacking it out, getting into super low H/A numbers but then testing them on trails we can only dream of. Sure you can get the benefits of that but I think for ultra capable, short travel rippers like this, the transition one, Kona Process, Hugene, Ripley I think you loose a lot of what made them so addictive by going too far. Why I'm now at the Following is I sold my Kona Process and got a 150 / 140mm more enduro frame as I thought longer n slacker was better. Yes it was more planted but is was less fun, less maneuverable and, not sure if it was the geo or the suspension, but it was no better on the tougher, rowdier tracks that you can throw it down here in the cape.

Some advice from all you fellow Following evil owners. This relates to a V1 and my general riding in WC @ Tokai, Contermans Cape Cobra, Jonkers etc. 1) Do you run you in the flip chips High or Low mode. How significant is the difference? How are the pedal strikes on low on rocky downs? 2) Angled Headset. What kind of combinations are you running with your Flip Chip settings? I'm planning on running my Following with a 140mm fork so that will slack out the H/A a bit.

Is this non-argument still going? Nearly 1000 posts though. Impressive.

Brave man. Word is the guy I bought the frame off did the same thing. Once.

Mrs Savage looks like a Mr Savage unless you're the he and he's the she.

Dunno, just bought and ran! I'm not a marriage councillor, I have my own kit and don't like grown men crying near me. He has 4 bikes and now no wife. Personally if was him I'd see the as an opportunity to add another bike into the shed.

Check my knobs and my knobs are good.

Is it bad that I've never even bothered to see if my side nobs are squared off?

Great feedback. I've had a Slaughter before and ran it at 20psi without a worry and also never had issues with braking or hooking up grip once you start to corner. Also rode it all year around and it did drift like a tokyo teenager when hitting wet grass, roots and others but it that was great fun and predictable. Like being a kid again and pulling skids. Grid is the way to go, not for the protection but I liked the support of the side wall which is one of the best I've had. I've very little knowledge on the SS but the last Minion DHF exo I had was surprisingly floppy and ended up running higher pressures than I like. I think I'll give the Slaughter another go. Thank you everyone.

CRC are having some good deals on forks. If you have a 27.5 then you can get a 160mm Mattoc or a 2016 Pike RTC solo for R5000 odd.

I see a lot of love for the Slaughter but struggle to find anyone who as actually had an SS. Maybe that tells me all I need to know. Both are 2.3 in 29 version but I wonder how the widths match up.

I'm looking for a semi slick rear tyre. What do you all think of Minion SS Exo v Specialized Slaughter Grid?

1st time to post in this thread. New (to me) frame and unfortunate as the divorce situation of a friend of a friend is, when he is selling off his toys and only wants R16K you can't say no. Wish I had the money for his fishing boat!

Thanks for the info. Sure it's not going to be a cheapie at all!

That looks interesting but upgrading is now more than just drive chain it's hub, wheel builds etc. upgrading isn't as affordable as it was. I think I'll stay on 1x11 until they go to 15 and I need wheels.