Charvel

I agree with gremlin. Go to bike shops and see what they have to offer. You would sometimes be able to pick up some higher 2009 models for good prices. I am a bit subjective, but Silverback is known for offering really good value for money bikes as they are a local company and you therefore don't have to pay the "premiums" on international brands. But choosing a bike is a personal choice and you should choose one which you feel comfortable with. My 2c worth.... Charvel2010-01-08 05:48:46

I think the difference is that in bonking you suffer due to nutritional factors whereas in hitting the wall you suffer due to a steering/braking problem. - Well said! Uh uh.. You clowns characters obviously never ran any long distances in your sporting careers. Long distance running is not my game. Sporting Career? Mine is still like Julius' school career. Clown? Why thank you for the recognition Sir. Lindt anyone? Likewise... One thing to keep in mind: when you bonk when cycling' date=' you still have a ? 11kg piece of metal to carry / push / drag to the end point. And this is when you don't even have enough energy to close your mouth to prevent your tongue from hitting the dirt! [/quote'] Relax...only used the term clowns cause you both laughing so much. Watch out you dont ride over your tongue with that 11kg metal beast. While you in the keeping in mind mood, keep in mind that bonking is mostly your own fault due to depriving yourselves of suffcient carbs. Care for some Lindt, guaranteed to stop the bonk? Don't worry, no offense taken I agree with the fact that it is mostly our own faults the first time...but there are instances where it happens due to unforseen circumstances as one of the other Hubbers have mentioned. Nobody ever said sport would be easy

I think the difference is that in bonking you suffer due to nutritional factors whereas in hitting the wall you suffer due to a steering/braking problem. - Well said! Uh uh.. You clowns characters obviously never ran any long distances in your sporting careers. Long distance running is not my game. Sporting Career? Mine is still like Julius' school career. Clown? Why thank you for the recognition Sir. Lindt anyone? Likewise... One thing to keep in mind: when you bonk when cycling, you still have a ? 11kg piece of metal to carry / push / drag to the end point. And this is when you don't even have enough energy to close your mouth to prevent your tongue from hitting the dirt!

I think the difference is that in bonking you suffer due to nutritional factors whereas in hitting the wall you suffer due to a steering/braking problem. - Well said! Charvel2010-01-07 06:08:12

Very true! Before I've bonked I always read people talking about not being able to finish a trail or race etc. and thought to myself "That'll never happen to me!". Famous last thought and I have vowed to never have to go through that AGAIN! But that's just part of the journey I guess...

One of my friends and I went for a MTB ride early December last year out past Fourways Mall to Northern Farms and back. I was recovering (well, I thought that I have fully recovered) from an illness and I bonked badly on the way back and thereafter! We left just before 10am (and it was a scorcher of a day) and with about 12km to go, I ran out of water. As we came in on William Nicol, I stopped at the Exel garage where I filled up on some water, and my buddy had to physically push me the last 3 km home! That whole thing aggrevated my illness and I was booked off work for 3 days (not too bad) and booked off from riding my bike for two weeks (seriously bad!). Hope I never have to go through that again! Charvel2010-01-07 03:22:40

Ditto!

And it all boils down to the age-old saying: "Treat others as you yourself want to be treated"

This was me 2 months ago the day that I fell in a very nice rock garden... And this was the day after... I did a full flip over the handlebars and landed on a large rock. My hip took most of the impact and ensured a trip to the physio. My first major wipe-out this year... At least my bike is OK with a little scratch on the ergo grip of the handle bar Charvel2009-11-02 08:25:07

The carrier has rubber-type footprints - two press on the rear of the boot close to the rear window, and the other "rest" on top of the bumper. You can place those non-slip material (the same type of ones that you find in the trays in the Polo), and place it underneath each rubber foot. That should protect the car even further if you want, but they generally do not scratch the car.

The only real difference (from what I can recall) is the sensors. Even though the CS200 can monitor cadence, it doesn't include the cadence sensor in order to do this. You will have to then buy the cadence sensor separately. The CS200CAD does include the cadence sensor as well, hence why it is more expensive than the normal CS200. I have the CS200 CAD and it is working really, really well for me.

I've been on the other side, and I have to say that I prefer having my legs hairy. Being a MTB'er it doesn't feel right riding with shaven legs. We prefer the rugged side of life, so why should we not look the part as well?

I can remember when I was in Belgium as an exchange student many years ago. There it was common for bikes to be "stolen". It was such a common practice that if your bike wasn't there the next morning, then you take someone else's bike etc. It was like being in a round robin with bikes and only now and again you will have your "own" bike to use. These Belgians are crazy!

I'm a Nikon fan, but I would suggest that you go and have a look at both brands (Canon and Nikon) before you buy. Take a look at the navigation on both and see which one seems more instinctive to you. It is more about personal preference at the end of the day, as both are great camera brands.

I know this has been mentioned before, but I would also suggest starting with a mountain bike first as you can use it on and off the road. Once you have found where you prefer to ride (on or off road), then you can look at upgrading. Chances are, you will love MTBing more ! (yeah I know, I'm not being very objective with my advice here )

I've actually read a post about this on another forum, and what really works for me is as follows (tying in with what most people have said on this thread): 1. Put right pedal in 3'o clock position (in other words facing to the front) 2. Put right foot on pedal 3. Put number 15 spanner around nut and pull spanner back towards you 4. Right pedal should be loose now 5. Place left pedal in 9'o clock position (facing forward) 6. Place left foot on pedal 7. Put spanner around nut and pull backwards (towards you) 8. Left pedal should now be loose By stepping on each pedal when loosening the nut, you give yourself leverage and therefore make it easier for the nut to come loose. Just another method to try if you get stuck

Cool stuff! I was just wondering if it is possible and if it would be an expensive exercise as well as what it will entail. Thanks Johan, will contact you to get more details.

I was wondering if I would be able to get a remote lockout for my Rock Shox Tora Race Solo Air 100mm fork? Will it work on this fork?

Yeah, we're kind of masochistic that way

I have recently bought a Silverback Sierra, and I'm seriously impressed with it! It uses the same type of frame as the Mercury 1, but the Sierra is a hardtail. I got on mine XT / SLX groupo with Rock Shox Tora Race Solo Air fork. As mentioned by the other guys, Silverback is great value for money! The Silverbacks might not be the lightest frames in the market, but they are very tough, reliable frames! My vote towards the Mercury. Charvel2009-04-12 12:15:54