MTBRIDER1234

99.9% sure, all the spokes are tight, the wheel runs true and it is only a month old, I think it is either a bearing, or the cassette and xd driver interface needs more grease (or likely both)

can't forget boost seats, grips and most importantly boost helmets

Maybe you could sell boost rims and I sell boost tires? I also think boost brake rotors sound like money...

I am pretty sure it isn't pivots as it is only at a certain point in the revolution of the wheel that the clicking sound occurs. This makes me think that one or 2 of the balls themselves are damaged and therefore the bearings need replacing. Like I earlier said, I will invest in some quality bearings which will hopefully last longer

Yeah that rim will work if the wheel gets dished. I haven't heard of boost and non-boost rims.

I am not sure if lyne hubs are bearing munchers, but most people I know have had great luck with them. I have probably got unlucky, but I still love the hub and would definitely buy another lyne wheelset.

Well, then I think it is the hub. I was gonna mess with the pivots, derailleur etc. And you saved me a lotta time, gonna tear down the hub, regrease everything and put in new bearings. Hopefully that fixes it

Outta interest, was it a lyne hub? If it was then that helps massively

It also happens when standing.

I think I may just spend the money and buy some nice bearings if they are what is causing it. I understand companies have to keep the cost down to sell things at a budget price and bearings are easy to replace.

Thanks Diesel, you are always a help on any mechanical thread. I have not removed the freehub, so the pawls should be fine, but I will see when I open it. The cranks are lyne and I recently regreased them and checked torque so they are all good. I think it's the bearings but I will see later this week.

1 month and few hundred km at most.

Yip it is only a month old. I am convinced it is the bearing. I am definitely considering buying some reslly high quality bearings that will last. It makes the noise when standing and the bearing feels gritty.

It's a very 'mechanical' click, it isn't something superficial like a cable rubbing or a chain skipping. I may also try regreasing the cassette interface and if that fails, I will rebuild the hub.

It may be, but why would it only so it on one side of the cassette? And it does it even when I put the front wheel against a wall and push down on the crank.

Shot, that is the one area I have overlooked. I don't think it is because if I put the front wheel against a wall and push down on the crank, it still makes the clicking noise.

The wheel is only a month old and is running perfectly true. But I definitely did consider that and I checked all the spokes twice haha

Can't post a video now, but the bike doesn't make the noise on a stand. Limits and B-screw set. Derailleur is tight, hanger is straight. Cassette is tight, axle is tight, pivot bolts are tight and greased... I am very confused as to what it is, I think hub bearings is the likely cause, although it has only done a few 100km

I am actually not sure, the cassette is pretty dead, so there may well be. But it isn't a sound from the chain skipping or anything, it is a click that you can feel through the bike.

Hey hubbers, I was out riding yesterday and upon riding home, I discovered there was a clicking sound coming from the rear end. I suspect it is hub-related because I have recently regreased the entire bottom bracket assembly and the noise is only present when I am pedalling. Even if I pedal with literally no load, the clicking is still present, but only if I am sitting on the bike. On the stand, the noise is gone. Another thing that has confused me is that it only makes the noise in the 3 easiest gears. Incase it helps, it is a sram gx 10-50 cassette on a lyne amp high engagement wheel. Normally I am pretty good with these things but this has stumped me. I am planning to tear the hub down on saturday but I am hoping it may be something simple that I overlooked.

^this I don't care who you are or how observant you are, you are always at a disadvantage when someone on foot who is armed comes at you, the person on a bike. They may have the knife/bat in hand and you will have to draw your pepper spray and actually hit them, by which time you will be stabbed and robbed. Some guys do manage to fend them off, but this is the minority. I have my bike insured, so I won't risk my life for it. I will hand it over because someone high on tik won't take kindly to you fighting back. Also as I have said before, if cyclists start arming themselves, not only is it: a) stupid to ride with a weapon b) awkward to draw a weapon on a bike c) presenting the opportunity to have said weapon stolen Along with this, thugs will start to think all cyclists are armed and it won't be a threat of stabbing, they will shoot you and take your bike because now they fear their own safety. The point where most people start carrying weapons when they ride is the point when I stop riding. I would not be able to ride with the thought of being shot at just for my bike.

I have ridden tokai hundreds of times (thrice a week or more) and I can assure you it is completely crime free. I can understand you being scared about falling and no-one being there to help you or call someone, but it is really, really safe from a crime point of view.

Well... customers can cause you a lot of problems if you don't tell them that that crankset, tire etc. won't work on their bike. I have seen people with 2.6 tires in a non-boost fork and it was rubbing the crown. This is because a shop was probably too lazy/scared to tell them it wouldn't fit. So always help the customer, and never let them buy a part that is incompatible with their bike or a piece of gear that won't be right for them (wearing a full face helmet for xc and then they overheat)

I have heard they are pretty good but I think servicing is quite expensive. Also apparently the smallbump is better due to it having less seals etc. But my dad who is an ex-pro xc rider has gone from a lefty to a rockshox revelation and says the difference isn't that much. I guess a lot is marketing.

I can't speak for their xc forks, but for enduro, trail etc. I prefer rockshox because I find the charger 2.1 damper to ride higher in its travel and it is easier to tune. Fox look nice but rockshox have superior performance and are better value IMO But choose one and be a d*ck about it to the end haha