MTBRIDER1234

He has probably given up responding. He is clearly a scammer and has no intention to pay back OP. We also don't know if his real name is Lionel Hennesey and if he even lives in the country. Scammers commonly use identities of innocent people and then the innocents end up taking the reputational hit. Unike with most people when payday is at the end of the month, his is probably when he secures his next victim. OP, if you haven't laid charges or chatted to the police, then you are likely just letting another person get scammed.

Some of the offers actually provide great entertainment for me haha, I was selling a bike for 12K, got offered 7k, my friend was selling a bike for 18 and got offered 10. Gotta love how much they lowball you. Also I am curious how many people actually accept, it surely can't be even 10%, but then again, some of the dealers on here aren't very charming at all and continue to be in business, so it may be more than we think...

I have used literally all rim tapes and also tried gorilla tape and used the stock rim strips that are claimed tubeless. I can guarantee that rim tape is always the easiest and cleanest out of all of them. Put a layer of insulation tape then do your rim tape (the amount will vary on how deep the rim is. When in doubt with a shallow rim, use slightly less than more. I have blown tires off Stans rims due to using too much rim tape. It was so bad that the rim was crazy out of true and the tire was completely throw away. I also couldn't hear for the next 30 minutes haha, it was far louder than a gunshot. I am no gun expert, but I have shot enough to know how loud they are. Although you must not stretch the tape, you must keep tension. If you don't keep tension, bubbles and creases can form and cause leaks and all kinds of problems. If you are not sure, I would do the rim tape tighter than looser. Also doing it in a truing stand (or on the bike if you don't have a truing stand) makes it 1000 times easier IME.

How about real bikes...

I was pretty young when I started riding, so I hadn't experienced a lot of things by that point and therefore, I wasn't exposed to as many things as I am now, which may have been why I didn't find something I enjoyed until that point. 99% of riders are cool people and I am sure you will get along well with them. Also, unless the area where you plan to ride is really dangerous, never underestimate how much fun a solo ride can be, you can go at your own pace and do whatever you feel like. Also there is the added bonus of no waiting for others haha

Bru riding is the best thing to ever happen to me. I used to be very unfit and have almost no friends. I started riding and immediately found my 'group'. I am much stronger and happier now and I really enjoy interacting and shredding with like-minded folk. Give it a try, it will change your life. Guaranteed.

Security ain't gonna help when someone threatens your life with a knife when you are out riding.

Sorry but I have to disagree with you on this one. The majority of people stupid enough to skid in berms are also not clever enough to know the impact it has on the trail. Those who do know will not be doing it just to destroy the trails for fun. I have been in scenarios where you have to roost some berms if you come in too hot or if they are tight - like the ones at hoogekraal. Wide radius berms are the only way to do it if you want people to not roost, because it makes it much harder. I agree with Eddy on those concrete erosion blocks or compacted stone, but that will do a lotta damage if you fall. Those concrete blocks will act as a cheese grater for your skin and you won't slide as easily as you would on dirt.

I may well be, but I was generally referring to a guy on an E bike vs the same guy on a normal one. An extra 10 kilos or so. And rear brake dragging kills trails faster than almost anything else

I don't have a huge problem with them, but guys on short travel bikes or hardtails hate them. I learnt that from my years of hardtail riding haha Most of the braking bumps are caused by **** riders and more likely then not, the experienced riders have much less to do with this. It is the idiots who go too fast and then when they get scared, they pull a handful or rear brake and skid like their life depends on it. Also E bikes do much more damage due to the extra weight.

What a build! Normally I only like the PYGA's when raw... but this is one rad paint job. Also is that the new LYRIK with the charger 3? I have heard good things about them and I am super curious on how it rides compared to the charger 2.1 (I would personally take a lyrik over a zeb because I am a pretty light guy)

Chris, I fully agree with you and definitely think you seem like a lekker guy. The point the guys were making is that his wording and inciting of violence isn't so cool. Here at Tokai we get way more roosters and skidders... yet they never tell anyone to give out PK's. The tokai locals have gotten used to the braking bumps and I honestly just see them as a trail feature and don't let myself get wound up about it, life is too short to worry about some guy with more money than skill and brains who pulls a handful of rear brake because he thinks it looks rad.

Nowhere is safe now. After riding tokai, before I even got to the end of the road, some little sh*t who can't have been more than 9 tried to stab me for no reason whatsoever. If he did not have a knife, I would have gotten off and taught him the lesson no-one else has YET. I get scared riding on my own on the roads because you don't know who to trust. I am saying this from experience sadly. Cycling early or late in the day is a cock-up and too dangerous nowadays. I would rather have my life than an early morning ride.

No problem, glad that I added some value. Bikes are much easier than a car or pretty much anything of similar value to steal and sell. Once stripped, good luck getting all the parts back and proving they are yours. I have even heard of thieves cutting through bike frames just for the groupset alone. A full XX1 drivetrain is worth a lotta cash. Sometimes even more, if not the same as the complete bike. Also, bike racks aren't all that secure, with a good power saw you could literally cut through those tubes in seconds and be gone with a bike worth more than a car. If you haven't already, you guys should seriously consider insuring your bike, I know that I certainly could not afford to replace mine if it was stolen, as most of my money went into it haha

^this While collections and drop-offs are convenient, they are very expensive if they go wrong. As a first time business owner, you may not want the extra complication/stress of that and it will be much more efficient and simple for you if you have people bring it to you. You probably already know, but drivetrain brushes, chain cleaners etc. are really useful and they will save you so much time when you need to clean tight to reach spots. Also get some good degreaser (like blixem) and use it in a well ventilated space - it is harsh stuff and is definitely not the best for your lungs. Good luck with your business, and you can trust me when I say that a lot of riders are rad people and working on bikes is super rewarding and fun.

Yeah bike tools are crazy expensive. With all the industry standards, there are hundreds of tools to purchase and you will need to have stock of parts on hand if stuff need to be replaced. Bike shops are capital heavy and also extremely work heavy. You have to give it 110% if you want it so succeed and obtain a loyal customer base. That means going the extra mile and always making sure the client is happy etc.

Surely you would have seen that the area by the plug was dry and the leak was coming from somewhere else before you started firing blanks at bikemarket?! In the nicest way possible, are you trolling, or are you generally as thick-skulled as you seem on here? your responses have just dug you into a deeper hole and your tone was whiney and bound to push people's buttons from the very start. As for something helpful, you may need to just simple tighten your valve, or the rim tape may need to be redone/new valve. On a sidenote, the valve cores in my lyne amp wheels got clogged and I wanted them to provide me a whole new wheelset... how dare they design it so badly that the core clogs

Sealant does last about 3 months or so, this means that is likely completely dry. OP must replace the sealant and then check to see if that fixes it. If not, put in a mushroom plug if it is leaking by the plug that is currently in there and then check again. If it is still leaking than like Hairy said, brush a sunlight and water solution on the wheel and look for bubbles. Oh and please don't tell me that the tire just needs to be seated and that was what was causing it.

It seems OP is nowhere to be found... When someone with 1 or 2 forum posts comes in all guns blazing and then is never seen again, it usually reflects worse on them than it does on the person/business they are rambling on about. A message to OP: check your facts before you post some incorrect nonsense on the internet that makes you look really stupid. Plugs ain't temporary and if you don't know how to put in sealant then I am surprised you even managed to find this forum and start whining.

Weird for sure... I honestly can't say why it happened without being there or seeing the bike

I am in the industry and I have yet to meet anyone who replaces a tire after plugging it. Hell, I sometimes take home tires that people have replaced, plug them and get a helluva lot of life from them, for the grand total of a few rand for the plug. It is nothing to worry about and if sealant doesn't fix it, a mushroom plug will.

Did the wheel lock up initially because of the chain getting caught or the derailleur getting caught? Like others have suggested, your hanger may have been slightly bent and something abnormal caused it to fail. By any chance, was the hanger almost broken and you didn't see that? Just thinking because it may have been on the verge of failure and a hard shift just forced it over the edge.

any chance you could post a picture of both sides of the rotor? I am just curious to see if it was worn on both sides, or if the caliper was not aligned. Nonetheless, this is why I always tell people to check their brake pads and rotors, I have seen how fast metal on metal destroys rotors and I can guarantee that a new set of pads is always cheaper than a new rotor. Also that rotor rub must have provided some serious drag and resistance (brake rub slows you down way more than you might think)

I guess maybe what I was trying to say is that for some, manual is deemed more pure, because it is slightly more involved and more oldschool. You can have a lot of fun in a car with a DSG 'box for example, and they shift pretty fast. So I guess auto vs manual is like GX vs XT, there is no right answer and it all comes down to needs and preferences.

Yeah autos are fun and 99% of the time they shift better and way faster than a manual could. But some people just prefer the more immersive experience of driving a manual, and you could argue that it gives you more control over the car (short shifting or revving it out). Also a manual has more street cred and takes more skill to drive