MTBRIDER1234

Yeah bru that sucks; what you can try to do, check if it is indeed the CSU is to flip the bike upside down and spray some lube on the junction between the stanchions and the crown. If the creak goes away for a bit, then you have found your problem. For a permanent fix then you can get hold of the very elusive penetrating loctite and put a bit of that in the junction as a much more permanent solution. Hoping you get to the bottom of that frustrating creak!

it seems like many others have also found a large difference between them. Like Diesel said, buy an XX1 chain; it will be exactly what I get once my current chain goes.

In my experience, the XX1 chains last a helluva lot longer than any other chain. More specifically, the black, gold and rainbow XX1 chains last forever; like they last 2 or 3 times as long as an X01 or lower spec chain. I would say if you can afford it, then definitely go for it! It will save you money in the long term and it looks rad!

Sorry to be that guy to ask a 'silly question' but are you sure it is not your CSU creaking? I have seen many people blame their headset, when in fact the cause was the all dreaded CSU creak. Double check this or you could end up chasing your tail to no avail. Hope that helps a bit

Hey man, as a junior mechanic, there are quite a few things people overlook. You work long hours and deal with a lot of people who have no clue what they are talking about. The pay isn't great (but you may not care about that). This should be obvious, but it is extremely frustrating at times, whether it is that one tubeless tire that just won't seat no matter what you do, or a person who comes in with a dead drivetrain and only replaces the chain - this means it won't shift right no matter what. But my personal worst is when someone asks you to find a creak on their bike... it drives me insane as some bikes are just normally creaky and you end up taking it apart and reassembling it to no avail. There also is a learning curve and a lot of tricks to know when it comes to brakes, gears, suspension etc. I guess to summaries; I am just saying it is not as glamorous and fun as you may think, it is hard and frustrating work for lowish pay.

Yeah I ended up choosing slakline. I am a pretty fit guy so climbing is not at all a problem (even with guys on xc bikes haha) also the PYGA climbs AMAZINGLY for what it is and is also fairly light at 15.5kg I run mine 160/160 - I am waiting on a 170mm airshaft for my fork. It descends like a beast and is a rad bike, I can also convert it to hyrax mode on the rear because I have a 3D printed travel reducer for the rear shock.

I absolutely agree 100%. I think you have a great point and I am also confused as to why is is even a problem having the limiter when riding trails because like you said, if you can ride those trails, you probably don't need and E bike and you definitely are able to put down a few unaided pedal strokes - the rest of us do it for an entire ride haha

I have done many jumps where you need to go over 32 km/h to clear them. They are plenty common on downhill tracks. This being said, he should be able to pedal somewhat normally even with no motor assistance, as gravity is doing a lot of the work and you just need to get a bit extra speed. Also not all flow trails are built equal. I have ridden some that there is no need to pedal and others that are very pedally, flow trail is a pretty loose term.

Sorry bru but they definitely are dangerous on trails if derestricted. If you can in theory keep pedalling and getting a boost at whatever speed, then you have the potential to get seriously hurt. I have seen a lot of people try to use speed to make up for lack of skill on a jump or drop. Often times they eat ****. Hard. Now imagine someone with little skill has the ability to easily increase speed for a feature... an easy way to get into trouble IMHO Also saying they pose no danger uphill is just stupid. I am saying that because I have been hit by an out of control rich old man who was going way too fast into a techy climb, lost control and hit me. So I am speaking from a place of fact.

I definitely agree with this, but you also must consider the danger an unrestricted E-bike poses to the rider. Many people who ride E-bikes are not very experienced riders and the motor cutout helps limit their speed on trails. When you remove that, you will have people bombing down trails at crazy speeds that their skills can't cope with. They will crash and hopefully no analogue bike rider gets harmed, because of some rich old man, who has no skill, on what is essentially a 'pedal assisted' motorbike. Also for jumps us analogue bike riders don't need a motor, so you E-bikers don't (especially at trail speed 😋) Also I don't care if you derestrict your E bike for the road because I don't ride road and it is not as dangerous as it being derestricted on trails. *By the way, I don't hate E-bikes and actually find them quite fun - I also see the benefit they have for people who would not be able to ride without them.

I agree with everything posted here. I am fortunate that I work in a bike shop, so I can do all the servicing for free and I get discounts on parts, clothing etc. But even so, it is not a cheap sport by any means. I am seriously considering building a flat bar rigid (think old xtc frame or similar with cheap carbon fork), I am going to put on bulletproof parts (shimano 1x11) and it will be my bike for commuting and riding around. I neither feel safe, nor do I enjoy the added maintenance costs when it comes to using my enduro bike as a mode of transport. Also the fact that I live 3 minutes ride away from Tokai is a blessing... fuel is so expensive now that I would never be able to bring myself to drive to the trails (this would only make a costly sport more expensive)

If money is not a worry for some reason, then get X01 AXS. That simple. But if you are like most of us, who buy products based on the perceived value, then GX AXS is a much wiser choice. It costs less to replace a broken derailleur or shifter and works NEARLY as well. Nearly being the main word. You will spend a fair bit more on X01 but the difference in performance isn't justifiable considering the added expense. But if you have unlimited cash, go X01!

Yeah sadly it's clear to see that they are 2 different frames... I do love it when a bike is reunited with it's owner, but sadly once they are gone, they are very hard to find. Good luck with the hunt and hopefully the rightful owner(s) of these bikes get reunited with them.

^this. Extremely suspicious advert, he doesn't state the model of either bike and is selling them stupidly cheap. Someone needs to investigate this guy or get the police involved. We can't let them get away with it.

When I saw this title I was thinking how much have trials bikes changed? Apart from the introduction of carbon frames thanks to Danny, they have stayed the same for years Trail bikes on the other hand, have changed a lot. Like a lot. Geometry has got longer and slacker, stems have got shorter and bars have got wider. They now pedal better and are able to descend faster and give you more control. It is also commonplace for frames to have built in adjustments that you can make to the geometry.

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In my opinion this is stupid. Fox already has Kashima coat (the biggest snake oil in the MTB world) they have no need to be petty over something that like someone mentioned earlier, MRP has been using for ages. I also think bleed valves are pretty unnescessary and that unless you are constantly changing altitudes then they are yet another thing to add weight, complexibility and cost. I am not a fox fan and will continue to not be until they price their products more reasonably.

Yeah in one of my posts I calculated that even including freehub body, slx is cheaper

I got a 160/160 bike as well and feel for my riding it is absolutely perfect, but I do get your point I agree it is a do it all bike, but this means it is a jack of all trades and a master of none. After riding a hardtail down the scariest trails we have here, I have grown accustomed to a loud and noisy bike. My full sus feels eerily quiet haha It definitely isn't an apples for apples comparison and the Trek has some things about it that appeal to some, and the SL has some which appeal to the gravity/enduro crowd

The Kenevo is more versatile, as it has more travel - also what is the use for a 140/150 bike? it wants to be an enduro bike but doesn't have enough travel, yet it is too much travel for a trail bike Also I got the weights wrong, which I will admit to I have ridden many E bikes and personally I couldn't care less about noise You can safely assume when people are spending north of 100k on a bike that money won't be a huge problem.

I have watched reviews of both and if you know anything about the specialised enduro (which the kenevo SL is based off) you know it is one of the best enduro bikes ever made.

This bike is interesting, but as ChrisF said, it is Trek's version of the SL. I would take a kenevo SL over this anyday. It looks better, is lighter, handles better and is more capable. It is massive compared to the Kenevo SL, yet somehow has pretty much identical specs (same battery size) A good job that could have been done a bit better IMHO

Oh, I see what you are saying now You can just use an allen key or a spoke to unclog it, but this is only a temporary fix

I just unscrew the valve cores, no need to take off the tire luckily, otherwise I would never get round to it haha

I have been using it for a while, but haven't found that it is especially bad when compared to other sealants. I will probably get blasted for saying this, but when my valve cores are clogged; I soak them in a solvent like turpentine to dissolve the sealant. Leave it in there for an hour or so and you are good to go.