MTBRIDER1234

Haha actually forgot about that, so used to SRAM these days. But I think it will be a shitshow finding just those 2 cogs here in SA where shimano spares support basically doesn't exist. Also can't you replace the deore cogs, or am I being stupid? (my brain doesn't work on a friday arvo haha)

ok I wasn't sure if you had a microspline hub, so I suggested Deore in case you were open to options... So I guess the general consensus here is go SLX for longevity, but same-same really.

Not hard to buy a set of hubs and swap them...

I am pretty sure they both have the hardest 10 gears made of steel and the easiest 2 made of aluminium. So probably fairly similar. (I am referring to 12 speed) But the simple answer is that DEORE lasts the longest because it is all steel. So if you prioritise longevity over weight, then go deore.

I am sorry but in my opinion, if you buy a s-works or a santa cruz or a yeti, you are buying it to show off. I can tell you firsthand that a PYGA mobu frame is better than any of the three brands I just mentioned. It has the highest quality carbon you will probably ever find on a bicycle. Also for 100K you can get a very, very well specced PYGA slakline, or a poverty spec enduro. Your choice. Anyone that has ridden a PYGA can testify for how amazing they are, and you are supporting a rad local brand. They don't have nearly the buying power of spez, yet they offer much better value and seem to be doing just fine. I guess what I am trying to say is that if you buy any of the 'big three' when it comes to high end bikes, you are getting ripped off. No question whatsoever. Unless you are a dentist, then I question why you would choose the bike that offers a lot less bang for buck.

I guess they are sort of a 'hybrid' shoe. It almost seems like they aren't a true cycling shoe and rather maybe a reinforced shoe geared to walking as well as riding (maybe the sole is not as stiff?)

Sorry bru, but Dieselindust already confirmed that they are different.

Haha I have kinda given up waiting for pictures... or waiting for him to say if it is narrow wide, what the chain wear is, if the hanger is bent, what brand the groupset is, what length the chain is etc etc. Maybe this will be bikehub's greatest unsolved mystery... Also as a mechanic, it is kinda hard to diagnose your problem with your drivetrain without enough information, so OP, it benefits you to post pictures

Thanks Diesel, that's good to know. I think I will get one of the workshop size bottles of the regular one for most of the year and have a normal size bottle of the E bike lube for winter and wet conditions.

I don't think anything for saddles and shoes. But for components yes. E bike cranks are different, some chainrings are different and you get E bike specific forks, wheels etc.

I think there must be a difference in the formula slightly, otherwise they would just market their regular chain lube to both E bikes and non E bikes and just raise the price of that...

Haha I am also looking to justify the extra 20 rand I do find it miles better (get it?) than Smoove and it's also pretty clean. But unless I find some concrete evidence here, then I may just go back to the regular one

Howzit all, I was wondering if there is any extra benefit to be derived from using E bike chain lube on a non-E bike? I use squirt chain lube and I saw that the E bike specific lube is about 10 or 20 rand more... So I wondered if it lasts longer or will do a better job of lubricating my chain in poor conditions If there is anyone with knowledge about the chemicals that go into these 2 variants of squirt, then I would be really interested to know if, and how, they differ from one-another.

Had a lot of people tell me their gears are broken when they backpedal in the largest cog on a 1x system... it is just a quirk that most of them have Also if it works nicely when pedalling forwards, then why worry about it when pedalling backwards haha

It really depends, I have seen a worn chain cause problems in some gears and not others. Rather check it and eliminate another factor then leave it - while it may be the problem. If you don't already have a chain checker, I highly recommend you get one, they are cheap and very useful.

Ok cool. Sorry to keep asking, but what is your chain wear at? This could play a huge role in your problem.

That is strange for sure. Is it a narrow wide chainring though? Also if a chainlink is bent then that could be what is causing that, but it is very unlikely. Maybe you could send a photo to help me get a better idea of it. Also what wear is the chain at? And you are sure your chainring is not bent right?

Here are a few questions that could help you get to the bottom of your problem: Is it a narrow wide chainring? What is the chain wear? Are the limits and B-screw set properly? Is the chain too long/short? Have you put a new chain on a used cassette?

Those things are moer expensive, and honestly aren't all that helpful for any mountain biking except xc and light trail. Many people who ride for the gravity focused side of the sport, like myself, would not benefit that much from one and it is just another expensive part to break. For the price of a power meter, you could buy an extremely high end aluminium crankset new or a high end carbon crankset second hand.

If you based close to CPT, then Nils at woodstock cycleworks will do it. It was about 500 bucks when he did mine a few weeks ago (and it was non-drive side as well). At that price it is a no-brainer and saves you throwing away an otherwise fine crank arm.

Yeah 1x12 is definitely the most sensitive in my experience of setting gears of everything from 7-12 speed rear derailleurs. If you don't set it right, then it will give you issues. Also if you ride a full suspension then remember to set the B-screw at sag, which helps a bit.

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Yip that is exactly where I was ralking about. I highly reccomend you try spraying lube where the stanchion meets the crown and see if the creak goes temporarily... it will save you a big headache chasing the creak

Yeah, I was talking about the stanchions... pretty sure those can still creak, even with a 1 piece steerer and CSU

You can check it, as per my above post. Hopefully it helps you get it solved.