- Active Topics
- Forums
- Create Topic
-
Oh boy. Now that is interesting. I have an occasional ticking sound too which I have never been able to identify. Time to take a good look at things.
Use both bibs and shorts, prefer bibs for long rides and shorts for quick spinning / wattbike sessions. SIzing is my biggest issue never sure if I am a medium or large
That's probably a more accurate description. For a 100 mile race I will probably almost always take my Assos bibs. for a quick "muck around" at Northern Farm, it'll likely be the shorts.
I like the First Ascent shorts.
Yes. I find that they are quite good value for money, are really very comfortable and seem to have a very good usage life.
Ok, let me explain….
I am not disputing that a chain tool measures chain stretch as a percentage of overall chain length, and I am not disputing that it is 0,25%, 0.5%, and 0,75%.
Some context…. A while back I was going through GX Eagle chains very quickly, and some people on the hub were making big claims about the life span of XX1 chains. I decided to try that, and for curiosity’s sake I wanted to measure how the chain was stretching accurately. So here is what I did, which should explain my initial post a bit better.
I replace my chains at 0.75% - that is my “allowable” amount of stretch. To measure I take a vernier calliper, and measure the length from the inside of a roller to the inside of another roller with 10 links in between. For the sake of my explanation let’s say that measurement is 100mm on a new and unused chain. I then took a chain at 0,75% wear and took the same measurement, let’s say for this explanation that this measurement was 110mm, thus giving me an allowable stretch of 10mm. So, if the measurement reads 102,5mm that means I am at 25% of allowable stretch. When it gets to 110mm I am at 100% of allowable stretch, and it is time to replace. Again, I am just using these numbers to explain the concept.
As I used my new XX1 chain I take this measurement often, after a considerable amount of km, I am not even at 25% of allowable stretch.
Hopefully that clears it up?
On the stretch/wear thing. Chains can wear (degradation of the material) and stretch. Bicycle chains generally speaking stretch before the material degrades, and that’s why we measure stretch.
Okes really need to relax, this isn’t a foreign policy or religious rights debate. We’re talking about chains.
Thank you. Understood. Please allow me to withdraw my previous comments.
2
I am also over the fear mongering and want to be out there cycling - but - NO- you can help curb transmissions by covering you mouth and nose - and everyone around you is not in the safe zone - it is not a big ask or is it?
I do not want to get this damn thing now because it will ruin my business and more than 30 people's food on the table - plus I am in the age group that gets hit the most. BUT I have had enough about sitting at home running down my immune system - so would like to cucle - but it seems it is impossible for people to do the safer thing? Like you say everyone gives a toss because they are fit and healthy - good luck then...
Hi Stef, I don't wear a mask while cycling. Across the world, it's pretty much the case that runners and cyclists (I am not talking about commuters here) do not wear masks. You will see a number of articles on the subject. But I accept that in a sense, that is beside the point. To be honest, I don't wear a mask because I simply cannot get enough air through one; it feels like I am drowning trying to cycle with a mask on. After a time, the mask gets wet on the inside (when I ride, I usually ride hard) and then it's like being waterboarded. If I am forced to wear a mask, I would rather not cycle. If you look at the World Health Organisation guidelines on the wearing of masks, they are not recommended unless the person in question is coughing, sneezing or similar. And if I am unwell in any degree, you can be certain I am not out on my bicycle. This may or may not be true of others though. I know none of this really solves your problem but I hope it at least answers the question. The reason I don't wear a mask is not because I don't give a toss at all but simply because I can't cycle with one on. I just find it completely impossible. Your experience may be different.
6
But it's not law is it? Compulsory but not law...
It's law but it's not a criminal offence not to wear a mask. So in fact, they can't arrest you for it or fine you for it.
Chains definitely do stretch, the also wear. Two seperate things. I know what I said, and I know how a chain checker works. I used the term "allowable" for lack of a better term, that's why it's in parentheses.
Lockdown seems to be getting to people. You're getting way too emotional over a comment made in a bike forum.
"Riders often speak of "chain stretch," a technically misleading and incorrect term. Chains do not stretch, in the dictionary sense, by elongating the metal by tension. Chains lengthen because their hinge pins and sleeves wear. Chain wear is caused almost exclusively by road grit that enters the chain when it is oiled. Grit adheres to the outside of chains in the ugly black stuff that can get on one's leg, but external grime has little functional effect, being on the outside where it does the chain no harm."
Not what I said.
I tend to get 10,000km out of my Sram cassettes.
Chains don't stretch. They wear. And no, it's not the same thing. There's no such thing as "allowable stretch". So nobody knows what you actually really said. Including yourself.
I reckon you probably measure kms the way you measure chain wear.
No, I mean 25%.
0.25 on chain checker tool = 25% of "allowable" stretch.
If you think 1% is " "allowable" stretch" on *any* chain, much less a 12 speed chain, good luck to you!
It could be tension failure. Tension failure is caused by improper engagement between the links and the sprockets and sometimes by the chain riding up on the sprocket teeth. Sometimes this can be caused by dirt and debris between the sprocket and the chain. This can create an overload condition which brings about the cracking that you are referring to.
Fit the chainring straight onto the PM. If the bike was non-boost you’ll put a spacer in between the chainring and the PM.
That then confirms that what I have done is right. Thank you very much.
Hi guys,
I just want to check something.
SRAM GX, 3mm offset factory chainring.
Bike is boost.
I have fitted an NG Eco and am now fitting the chainring.
Do I need spacers or does fitting the chainring directly to the power meter allow for the standard 3 mm offset? My understanding is that you only need to use spacers when using this set up on a non-boost bike. Is that correct?
Thanks in advance!
Or do it the proper way: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing
As mentioned, use a second quick link.
Those guides under the BB are a pain in the @ss! MTB ones will still drive me to drink ... I've tried using some of that thin plastic 'outer' type stuff on road and MTB but even that only works for a ride or 2 [emoji35]
Any kind of 'lube' sprayed there also just seems to attract more crud ...
Fortunately only road bike in my case.
now and then my FD and/or RD will stick
Exactly what happened here. Maybe also a bit of crud on the cable guide under the bottom bracket.
No idea, as long as it's working, when it breaks I'll have it fixed. It's always been like that, service after service.
Actually now that I think of it, apparently mine was a triple that could be why I sometimes have to double click.. Anyway I've seen the Fast and Furios movies, I imagine myself looking like Paul and Vin when they shift from 3rd to 4th, 4th to 3rd and back a few more times for no reason...
It adds to the special effects of me cycling.
Sorry I blame lock down, I think I need to take a walk around the yard.
I'm also running Ultegra and sometimes with mine you got to "Double click" my front derailer. Its the same when I shift down to granny gear (WHICH I DON'T DO EVER
) but it always works.
Is it not the trim function? I also have a double click on mine. When you go down to the small chain ring, you first need to go through the trim (click one) and then down to the small chain ring (click two).
You have a message from Tech Support:
Please rate our service from 1-10 10 being very satisfied.
Great stuff! Thanks for the help. 10.
I'd guess you've trapped the cable somewhere when installing the bike on the trainer.
If you take the bike off the trainer does the FD shift again?
Hi Droo, no it has nothing to do with the trainer. None at all. It's a direct drive trainer and comes nowhere near the FD or its shift system. And it was working fine while on the IDT until this morning when it decided to say "nyet!".
^ that or a cable/hose end slipped out of a boss somewhere on the frame or check under the BB (if bottom pull) if the cable slipped out of the guide there. if so, the lack of cable tension will do the same.
Thank you. I'll check it out. Cable is still fully tight but will take a look at it. I think the problem may be somewhere inside the shifter. Or maybe the FD is just stuck for some reason.
Hi guys,
Like many others, I am in lockdown and have my road bike on my indoor trainer. Something odd is going on with my Ultegra chainring front derailleur /shifter set up. Basically, when I use the shift levers, nothing happens. The shift levers move and you get the usual "click sensation" but there is absolutely no movement on the derailleur. At first I thought the cable must be broken but when I checked the cable on the derailleur and where it feeds through into the frame, the cable is still absolutely taut, which tells me that this is probably not a cable problem. But I am mystified as to what the problem could be and thought that I would ask here before I start trying to take things apart.
If anybody has a pretty clear idea as to what it is likely to be, I would greatly appreciate the input.
TIA.
My bike's default as per factory build is "normally locked". Bike is two way only, not three way. The lock makes a big difference on climbs. The unlock makes a big difference on downhills, corrugations etc. So I unlock and lock a lot using the remote on the handlebars.
2
Couldn't they use display of race number or something similar as a mandatory requirement for access to the parking area?
I am not sure about the "backwards forwards" movement thing on this rather fancy "wobble board", but for what it is worth, the Tacx Neo already has some lateral movement built into it. I was very hesitant about this before I bought my Neo and was quite concerned that I might find it negative. Having used the thing for a good few months now though, I can say that while at first I found it a little disconcerting, I am quite used to it now and it's… Well… Okay. It's not really a big deal. It's quite nice but I was quite happy with my old "fixed" setup which had no lateral movement. Speaking purely for myself, for my own purposes, this kind of thing simply doesn't make much sense. It doesn't change the experience so much that it's worth the money and the hassle. Maybe if you combine it with a set of VR goggles or something… But not on a standard kind of trainer arrangement. YMMV.
Chain Lubricants
in The Bike Room
Posted
Provisionally interested, depending upon pricing. I know exactly where you are going with this purchase… May be interested in trying this little experiment myself. Although it does seem like a lot of trouble to go to every few hundred kilometres.