Ncayi

Im staying away from them for the foreseeable future.

Try Mitch at Mellow Velo. He did a fit for someone I know and they were quite happy. He also gave me some great advise with some of my tweaks at no cost. And he is a pretty decent dude as well.

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As stated by Mike if the geomtries of the bikes are different your fit won't be a plug and play. Also it's important to try and pinpoint the nature of your sliding around. Are you constantly moving yourself back or forward on the saddle. Both can be addressed with adjustments to your saddle setback and or saddle tilt.

Its been almost 2 years since I asked this question and my fit has changed drastically over this period. I just thought i should share some nuggets from my journey. Bike fitter 1 He raised my saddle height by 4.5 cm, swapped 130mm giant contact saddle for a 155mm bontrager aeolus saddle, cleats were positioned a few mm behind my 1st mertatasal and it was happy days. I rode that position for a year with out any major issues. But there was this niggle on my left knee ane I alson got a new bike which I wanted t9 setup. So I approached bike fitter 2 as bike fitter one was nolonger operational. Bike fitter 2 He simply replicated bike fitter ones fit, and reduced my handlebar drop to open up my hips. He also moved my cleats further forward and that led to major discomfort. I simply moved myself back to the previous fit. I know what you may be thinking, give it time so you can get used to it. Trust me that fit was garbage. Cue bike fitter 3 Bike fitter 3 This dude almost ruined me. He staggered my cleats, raised the saddle a few mms and tilted my saddle like a MF. I am talking -8.5° of tilt from tip to tip and bare in mind Bontrager recommends about -2° of tilt. The position was so aggressive I felt pro for a few months. I was never the most symmetrical of specimens but I am convinced this fit really messed up my pelvis. I developed an extreme muscle imbalance, pelvic rotation, extreme anterior pelvic tilt, yeah I became a mess. I returned myself back to the bike fitter 1 put me on. I felt comfortable on the but could still something was not right. Bike fitter 4. I saw this dude because I was trying to sort out the assymetry had developed. He confirmed I was sitting skew on the bike, proceeded to Google what could be causing it while I was perched on the bike like TRex. After finding no answers from the great Oracle. He simply rotated one of my cleats and charged me R700 bucks and said I must go see someone to help figure out what was wrong and come back. I saw a Bio but didn't go to Mr googler because I just didn't have faith in his ability. Cue in bike fitter 5. Bike fitter 5 He made some changes ,same saddle height as bike fitter 1, a more chilled saddle tilt but moved my cleats further forward than ever before and reduced my stem from 100 to 80mm. In hindsight, I learnt that my body can adapt to extreme changes because I was able to ride a sub 3 cycle while riding on my tippy toes. As I land. This is where I am now. Throughout this period I have been consuming an insane amout of bike fit content which I started applying. I moved from 172.5 to 165mm long cranks. It felt strange at first and I couldn't produce any seated power especially on climbs. Tweaked my setback and now I am at home. Saddle went up from 81cm to 81.5 because of the change in crank length. Got a proper seat measurement of 125mm and I now use a 140mm wide selle san marco saddle. I run 10.5 cm setback, 3.8° of tilt. A big bum doesnt always mean a wide saddle is required. I shoved my cleats all the way back in my shimano shoes. They now sit 2cm behind my 5th metatarsal. Tweaked my cleat rotation till all the medial and lateral knee discomfort vanished. I am on an exercise plan to restore balance to my hips and strengthen my weak left glute and hip flexors which contributes to my assymetry. Using specialized blue footbeds. They felt strange at first but I now feel support throughout my entire foot.I started with the red and moved to the blue a few months later. They can take a bit of time to get used to. With these changes I have moved myself from a 44%L/56%R to a 48%L/52, stabilised my hips with the right knee not collapsing as much.

All I will say is that the market has no "integrity". I am getting fed up with waiting for those pennies on the dollar rim brake bikes and wheelsets we were promised years ago.

I sent a rep to go scout some merch for me since based outside Cape Town. There was nothing that fit and those that fit didnt meet my eye test standards. Most of the items on sale spent months on their archive sale page, they had an in person sale and still couldn't move all that stock. To me thats rather curious. Back in the day we used to clean out the place because they had some great stuff in sale.

You can travel with a bike on Intercape as long as its packaged properly. I paid just north of R600 from JHB to Cape Town when I last used it.

Thanks for the feedback. Did you pay anything else apart from Vat and shipping costs when you imported? I also found a video that explains what most people get wrong.You first tourque the pinch bolt, then tourque the preload with a 10mm hex and then tourque the preload again with a 6mm hex. This fully secures it.

How long have you had the unit and how has it treated you? Im mainly concerned about the reports of the non drive side crank arm coming loose. I know this may be down to poor installation by not following the manufacturer's instructions.

I wouldnt import anything that would need t9 have warranty coverage. So I am looking at PM I can buy locally. The Xcadey spider pm on your website is at a similar price point as the magene unit. But there only issue is that the there numerous threads about magenes nondrive crank arm coming lose because of the 1 pinch bolt design. On the flip side there are also threads about the Xcadey units failing after a few months. So at this point im still doing my due diligence. How long is your warranty on the Xcadey unit.

Hi, did you end up buying this power meter?

That lady took me to the promised land. No slander against her will be tolerated! Ps. I just checked, she actually did win her age cat.

Not disagreeing with the overall point. But there was a lady in 1A who I believe won her age cat according to her strava. She bailed me twice when it got really hot. She helped me get back to the bunch coming down chappies (after almost being taken out by some wanker who was dive bombing us through all the corners). The same lady helped me bridge back to the bunch coming down Suikerbossie. I think in this case she earned the glory. I also didnt do a single pull in the front but I am telling anyone who will listen about what time I did.

Its a pitty you couldn't make it, there conditions were perfect. My progress has been quite consistent (in hindsight). 4h15, 3h30, 3h6 and a sub 3. I have not done anything fancy as I coach myself through intervals icu and xert. I do about 8-10hours a week with intervals once a week and progressive overload over the duration of my season. Im a bit of nerd about this stuff so I enjoy the process. But the biggest game changer has been losing weight. My power curve has stayed the same but my watts per kilo has made good strides.

I could be dead wrong but here is my 2cents. Judging by your wattage on Edinburg you can produce the watts but fade as the race progresses. This could be down to a lot of things. Poor positioning, aerobic fitness ceiling that is not high enough, pacing etc I managed to do 3h6 last year weighing 95.5 kgs in the & group. This year I managed a 2h53 from 1A at 91.5 kgs. So at your weight with the wattage you can produce 1A is not out of your reach in my opinion My advice. 1. Work on your positioning in the bunch. 2. If you do intervals do them with some fatigue in the legs sometimes as opposed to when you are fresh all the time. 3. Come back and try next year.

My Stats in 1A at 91.5 kgs. NP for race 259w Edinburg 1.72km 5.5% │ 368w 4:22 Smits last 1.65km 5.5% │ 323w 4:24 Little Chappies 1.42km 4.1% │ 301w 3:34 Big Chappies 1.72km 4.8% │ 358w 4:4 Big Suikerbossie 1.86km 6.7% │ 352w 6:03

This would be a nightmare for us tailwind disciples.

There is a bike shop selling these for R100 each. But they only had them in smaller sizes otherwise I would stockpiled like a crazy person.

I had the same experience about 2 years when I made the move. There is a crit series that runs during the year. Just search for east side crits. I have never done it before but I believe its well organised. I doubt racing in Suikerbosrand would be appealing for most weekend worriors. Its brutal terrain, tricky decents and probably would be a mission logistically to put together. There is basically no winter road racing, the roads are horrible and I have found cycling scene to be quite whatsapp based. If you are not in the whatsapp groups, you can struggle to find any decent action. But on the upside, there is plenty of fitness to be gained from the never ending hills and altitude.

I had the same issue a few months ago. After searching the internet I managed to sort out the issue. The root course for your issue might be different from the one I had but this is how I resolved mine. The prongs circled in the centre (only the ones in the centre) needed to be lifted up just slightly. Over years of use they became flush which affected contact with the battery. I also noticed that the dropouts became worse when riding on poor road surfaces I also have a make shift shim between the battery and the cover yo prevent any play and that sorted out the propblem for me.

There are two Cycle Lab branches which are not too far from the Airport. They could try and make an arrangement for temporary storage or simply book them in for a wash and lube and specify a collection date.

You would be better of coming down Sandton drive and turning right onto Winnie Mandela Drive. At the that time there is not much traffic, the road is wide and mostly well lit so you can see things coming. There is a nasty climb before you get to the top of Brynston that will prepare the lungs for suffering that is to come. I live in the area and use Winnie Mandela Drive almost daily.

This is probably the best option in my view. 1. The 175mm would probably be too long especially if you are currently using a 172.5mm long crank. Even if you adjust your saddle height it will still close up your hip angle at the top of the pedal stroke. 2. 52-36 and 11-30 is good gearing for most terrain (if you have the legs).Im a heavy dude and run 52-36 & 11-32 gearing and I can get up most climbs comfortably. However, I spin out at 65km/h when descending so at some point I will 53-39 chain rings. 3. I use a Shimano short cage re derailleur and according to shimano the biggest cassett it can accommodate is a 30T. But use a 32T with no issues. I hope that helps.

Most if not all your questions are answered in the refund policy of bike hub pay.