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Johan Bornman

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Everything posted by Johan Bornman

  1. Plenty in Jhb. Just remember, if you plan to do it yourself, you need a special little spanner for the job as well as a spoke holder.
  2. You'll quickly feel whether it is good for you or not. If you have to ride, attempt to move so that you don't touch the hotspots. Usually when they're lanced and flat again, it heals very quickly. But give it a few days. Go do something else. Walk the dog, walk to the pub, go run....no, that sucks.
  3. Like Tom says, they're pressure sores or Ischemic sores. Just like bed sores. Caused by localised pressure that restricts the blood flow to an area and it then gets vrot internally. You have to lance them and relieve the pressure. You've already given yourself clues as to the cause - sort that out. Baby power and udder cream and lubricants won't help. It isn't a chafe, it is a pressure sore. Lance, disinfect, rest. They can go away in a week if you give yourself time off the saddle.
  4. The BB shell (frame part) in your Time frame is BB30. It is designed for a BB 30 crank that is not compatible with any other standard. The BB in your Bianchi is a cartridge-style square taper BB in a standard 68 or 73mm wide English thread BB. In order to fit the BB in your Bianchi in your Time bike, you will have to fit a threaded BB adapter into that BB30 shell. This is an aluminium sleeve that is glued in place and which then reduces the ID of the BB30 shell to a standard BB. It is not a very expensive conversion and is easily done. Square taper BBs like that in your Bianchi are extremely durable and very cheap and well worth preserving now that they've gone extinct on high-end bikes.
  5. Yup. I am one of the two. In the dark I hit a large hole and I endo'd flat on my face. A bit of a black eye this morning and a cut on my nose in the shape of my glasses. Someone made a joke that if I had a 29"er I wouldn't have disappeared down the hole. Arete will know who that could be.
  6. This is an inferior wheel in more way than one. 1) It has aluminium nipples. 2) Not enough spokes 3) So flexible that it will routinely touch the fork or seatstays. 4) If one spoke breaks on your ride, you walk home.
  7. Which part of my suggestion is nonsence i.e. not true? I have good reason for suggesting that the project is not worthwhile. The fact that it can be done doesn't make it sensible. 1) A 24H Shimano hub is not available unless it is one of Shimano's factory wheel parts. These hubs, afaik, are all straight-pull hubs which require special spokes not readily available. Even if it is a J-bend hub, then other reasons make the project a non-starter. 2) With any brand of hub, 24H is a problem. 3) 24H is just not good enough for a MTB wheel. It will be an inferiour wheel. 4) The Mavic X819 rim is rubbish. Those sockets quickly corrode, especially with a bit of sealant leaking into the rim cavity. 5) 36H MTB hubs are also in short supply. 6) MTB hubs are not meant to be used with radial lacing. The flange will break out. At the end of the day, all the OP has is a rim, that's rubbish, and now he wants to Heath-Robinson all sorts of fancy spoke patterns and lacings to that. I think the project is a non-starter and not worth the effort. Sometimes we just store such components until the sentiment passes and we can chuck them.
  8. Let me put you out of your misery. You've suffered enough looking for a hub and all. Toss the old hub and rim. Do it now before you're tempted to frustrate yourself again. Then look for a decent 32-H wheel or have one built up with standard components that can be replaced easily as and when neccessary.
  9. Eish! I've tried Durban a zillion times. Durbs is all talk and no go. Or am I wrong? Organise it and I'm there. Keep in mind that I cannot travel to Durban with a crate of tools and supplies, stay over at least a night or two, rent a venue, pay for refreshments and come back with some money in my pocket if you okes expect to get it for R300 a pop.
  10. I'll come along. Beer made me say so. Is this now the same ride as that in the other thread with Spruit, Pizza and Beer (and slow) in the thread title?
  11. Sell them, tubbies just spell trouble.
  12. Thanks for the spelling correction. I've never seen it in script. I had a bushman builder once who explained to me what it means and he wasn't as complimentary as that.
  13. St Lucia is one of the unsafest places to camp - on earth, I think. I don't want to scare you but let me tell you what happens in those two KZN Parks Board campsites. The sites are beautiful, with lots of bushes right around. These bushes are full of little paths and hidey holes where the tsotsis hide and attack you from in the night. The most vulnerable sites are next to the bushes and least vulnerable in the centre spots, which as it happens, we all hate. We like our privacy, but so does the skelms. Their modus operandi is grab and run. They'll grab a heavy camp fridge, bike, anything. You have no chance of catching them since their eyes are adjusted to the dark (you've been sleeping and can't see squat) and they know the place inside out. Don't feel assured by the presence of security, they're in on it and never see anything or catch anyone. Sometimes the njatsis (very nasty word for woman) are in it as well. They ululate and create more chaos whilst the raid goes on. There is a tiny little rusted warning at the gate that says something like, lock up your stuff. What the sign should say is "Kindliy note that bands of marauding impis will attack and raid you at night. Put out an armed gaurd." So, chain up your bike, your gas bottle, your stove, your axe, your fridge and certainly your brandy. Parks Board refuses to acknowledge the problem.
  14. You are right about the sealant destroying the nipples from the inside. It is very common. Even worse, when sealant leaks into a Mavic wheel such as the Crossmark type where the nipples screw into the rim (not onto the spokes), you have a catastrophe of note.
  15. Pleasure. Force the old starnut in deeper and install another one.
  16. No
  17. You're not reading what I've said in this thread. Age has NOTHING to do with it. Young or old, spokes that have not been stress-relieved will break. Tension is a small, secondary issue. The sun is also not to blame. As a spoke heats up, it elongates and relieves tension, not increase it. It's time was its time. Sun or moon.
  18. Black spokes are jsut as durable as their equivalent silver ones. In your case, their time was their time. Black or silver.
  19. Double butted spokes have a slender centre section which flexes more than the two thicker ends. This means that all the cyclical flexing happens in the smooth, slender centre section and not at the two ends, which are the weakest point on the spoke due to the elbow and threads.
  20. You contradict yourself a bit but I'm sure it is accidental. I'll assume it is the nipple that broke, not the spoke. Aluminiun nipples break routinely. They split off at the dead due to cyclical stresses which they can't handle. This problem and their affinity to corrosion make them stupid components. Brass nipples on the other hand have an infinite fatigue life, don't corrode and make life much easier. However, the weight-weenies think otherwise. Brass nipples weigh a frew grams more but in my opinion a reliable wheel is worth two birds in the bush.* If your spokes are stable and don't break, have someone replace all your alu nipples with brass. You may however have to replace the spokes too, since alu nipples frequently freeze onto the spoke and then it has to be cut off. In this photo I've placed two broken nipple heads. Next to it is an aluminium nipple cut length-wise, showing the corrosion that makes them freeze onto the spoke and prevent turning. The next nipple, the silver one is a standard nipple and the last one is interesting. This is an aluminium nipple without the head-sever problem (albeit still with corrosion issues). This nipple has an extension above the head that allows the spoke to go through and past the stressed area, giving it internal support. The problem with nipple is that it is patented by American Classic and not licensed to anyone. It also requires a 3mm longer spoke (thus cannot be retrofitted to existing spokes) and of course, it still corrodes like hell. * Or whatever the relevant addage is.
  21. The only way out of this conundrum is via a few simple measurements. BB to floor. Crank end to floor (with crank vertical) Etc. Compare to previous bike. I don't foresee any significant difference but lets measure first, then speculate.
  22. Make sure they use double-butted.
  23. It is difficult to speculate what exactly happened but I don't suspect foul play. At most ignorance or conservative behaviour. I'll explain. Whether the wheel was trued or not, your spoke would have broken. The truing had nothing to do with it. Fact is, spokes fatigue from cyclical stresses. With each revolution they stretch and relax a minute amount. Just like when you were at school and burnt your friend's leg with a piece of coat hanger wire than you furiously bent forwards and backwards until sizzling hot and having the wire eventually break, spokes break in the same mode. The crystals that make up the metal separate from repeated stresses. Since all spokes cycle exactly the same number of times per ride, they are all fatigued and will all break soon. What the bike shop could have done is explain this to you and then cautioned you that replacing one spoke only will soon have you come back again. Then you could have chosen to take a chance or bite the bullet. I find that people are often not psychologically ready for an expensive rebuild and first want to "take a chance" and see if I'm not talking nonsence. I then replace the spoke and stress the hell out of the remaining ones using an old left crank, just to see if any others are going to break imminently. Often two or three break in the bench. At least I then know that the wheel will be good for a week or three and explain this to the customer. They're back very quickly, redoing the whee completely. Usually it is ok to be conservative and leave the front wheel as is. A front wheel takes far longer to fatigue since it carries less weight and has the shock absorbing benefit of the fork -whether a rigid or suspension fork.
  24. I didn't know that. Thanks
  25. It will do no damage whatsoever to your chain, other metal parts, paint or wherever else it may fall. However, it is the wrong oil for the job. Swap it with someone for a can of engine oil. Then you'l be better off. If you put that stuff on your chain then you'll end up with oil wheels. It is so think it will splatter everywhere.
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