It is possible to open the air sleeve and put a rubber bumper onto the damper body. This effectively shortens the shock with no ill effect at all. In fact, many shocks come with such a bumper that can be removed to make it longer. @2Nuts, no it makes no difference how hard or soft your compression damping is. The length will be the lengh. So "tuning" the shock has no effect on its length. I found that the only time you cannot do this is if the bike was designed for a shock with a particular eye shape and putting another shock on there with a thicker eye, it hits the frame. Giants come to mind. If they have a X-Fusion on there, a Fox doesn't fit. Maybe it is vice versa, I didn't take my Ginko Biloba this week.
In that case you are far from the South African world headquarters of Marzocchi. They're in Jhb. A shock service will set you back about R600-00 and you will have to carry the cost of shipping to and fro Johannesburg. However, if you are not in a hurry and prepared to go snail mail, that cost is minimal. Details on the Marzocchi Website or dial 0823086847
It is an easy fix and yes, there are spares available for it. Plenty. Put your location on your profile and it will become easy for people to suggest where to go.
OK, if the frame is sealed off, it's good. Water can't enter from the top then and your BB should be OK if the threads are sealed. Use PTFE tape if unsure. FSA and Shimano BBs/cranks are not compatible. Shimano cranks have a 24mm axle and FSA....wait for it....24.2mm axle. In other words, if you put a FSA crank into a shimano BB, you have to force it it and usually it knocks the seal right of of its socket on the exit side. If you put a Shimano crank into an FSA BB, it has an irritating play in it. I'm sure there are lots of okes here who will now come with anecdotal evidence of their aunt Edna's FSA BB that works perfectly with a Shimano crank and vice versa. My experience is that the combo is always less than satisfactory.
Out of context? You sound like a politician. Looking at this again, I suppose I don't really know what you tried to say and perhaps interpreted it wrongly. Lets clear the text and start again. Please state clearly what you wanted to say? If you want, you can infer a smiley here, I'm still friendly.
Yes, it is normal....for cranks not installed properly. We need to know what type of crank it was. BTW, a crank is a crank. Crank arm is a tautological phrase.
Why only those two brands? Good quality spokes are made by many companies including Pillar, Wheelsmith, SAPIM and DT. Further, spokes are no spokes. Anyone can supply you with spokes at that price. However, you have to specificy if you want straight gauge, double butted or Revolution/Laser style. Fiinally, the colour has a huge affect on price. Choose.
If you want to be completely legit, you'll need one that goes from 2-14NM and one that goes from 14 to 50 NM. You don't get one that covers both ranges. And, good luck with getting it cheaper from the suppliers. There is no industrial torque wrench that I know of, that goes from 2 to 14, which is what you want for your alu bits and pieces - that costs less than a PRO, BBB or ParkTool one. A good 14-40NM one is in the thousands of rands..but clever, touchy-feely mechanics don't need one.
A very large percentage of hubs do this. The freehub body is not exactly centred on the axle and causes it to do a little waltz that is clearly visible when the bike is freewheeling in the stand. It does exactly that when the freewheel is engaged too, but the sprocket movement mesmerizes you so that you can't see it. It is more prevalent on freewheels with hardened steel bodies such as Shimano, than on aluminium-bodied freewheels. This is 'cause the steel is tempered after it was machined and slightly distorted in the process. Go for a ride. Seiously.
I like Lefties so I sincerely hope this is an improvement. Durability is of course only proven with time. We'll see. I hope they've softed out that horrible headset arrangement and replaced it with a normal angular contact bearing ala Aheadset style. I'd be worried about the exposed lower stanchion. It is really at the mercy of the elements down there. I wonder why it took them so long to design one without a breather system. I wonder what the "hybrid bearing system" really is. Is it functional and better? Yes? No?
Naah, I have never come across them AFIK. Howevr, whenever you okes start weighing things I cringe and run away. What ever happened to choosing a nice colour or perhaps a durable, strong component?
Those are American Classic hubs with a WTB label and paint job. No real catch other than they are less durable. The bearings are small and don't last very long. However, they are light and reliable. The freewheel mechanism is easy to service and when looked after, very reliable. Your rear hub should be 135mm wide.
Parking is not an issue. In Jorrissen street, two blocks from the start, there is a publc parking garage. However, the streets around there are cool, with one million parking assitants to show you where and even...how, if your reverse parking is rusty. Where you will find parking: Go down (south) Jan Smuts past the concrete eland. Keep left. Right at the bottom before going over the bridge, you slip off left into Jorrisson. Immediately start looking for parking. If there's nothing keep on going until you find the garage on the right. Piece of cake.
You got so many things just right in this photo that it is truly impressive. I go to Kalk Bay very often and I've seen it in all sorts of bad moods but never as beautiful as this. Nice work.
It looks like a mess and from the news reports I can't figure out who's right and who's wrong. As soon as there is a threat of legal action in cases like this, it means that the rules are not clear and everybody isn't on the same page. I hope the right people get to go.
You are also confusing seals and cup-and-cone designs. The two are unrelated. A good cup-and-cone bearings is good enough for MTB use and previous generation Shimano hubs stood up to wet use. However, they lost the plot when the newer over-sized axles came along and they skimped on the seal's engineering. As for wheels that spin forever, you're confusing the issue here as well. A new cartridge bearing (with seals and internal grease) has quite a bit of resistance. This resistance comes from two sources - the seal itself that makes contact with the race and, the grease. A ball that rolls through a river of grease experiences significant resistance, hence the tight feel of a new cartridge bearing. Once the seal has worn down and no longer makes contact, the grease has escaped to such an extent that the balls no longer plough through grease and the bearing spins freely. This bearing is on its last legs. The concept is counter-intuitive.
No. A cartridge bearing or a cup and cone bearing could have an ID that's too small for the 15mm standard. The two issues are unrelated. Previous-generation American Classic wheels for instance use cartridge bearings and don't have a large enough ID (internal dimension) to accept a larger axle. Modern Shimano wheels have cup and cone bearings and are large enough to accept a 15mm standard. Don't confuse the issue. Secondly, the seal has nothing to do with it either. You can unsealed and sealed cartridge bearings just like you get sealed and unsealed cup and cone bearings.
