greatwhite

Yeah only the bogus ones, not the BogusOne's

I think if you sell on this forum you should expect reasonable comment. People never like it when you embarress them when you catch them out, but I also believe the commenter has a responsibility also to be fair and careful with their comment - and make sure they have their facts right. I've screwed up like that before - accused a guy of being a scammer and while all his actions were exactly what I have had with scammers before, turns out he was legitimate. So yes, a gate keeper, but a careful one

Absolutely - google is your friend Problem for some is if you have no experience, you have no idea what questions to ask. If you have a friend that is knowledgeable, they can help you, but if you don't, then what? Also many people are simply too trusting - often it pays to be cynical. All the above said, I am of the belief that if something is wrong, you should say so. Yes it might cause the odd dust up, but better that than someone getting crooked

"Before you rant: Has a reasonable attempt been made to resolve the issue directly with the party concerned? If this is the first the other party will hear of your negative experience we strongly encourage you to engage them directly and seek resolution offline prior to posting here." Sorry - can't comply with the above. I see it so often and can't take it up with all: Doesn't anyone get pissed of when looking at the classified section and you see a bike in there that is clearly not the age or spec that is specified in the key specs? And how much should those that do know a reasonable amount about bikes point out the error/lie to protect the less knowledgeable? Put yourself in the shoes of a noob that gets fleeced by someone selling them a 10 year old bike when they think they are getting a 4 year old bike. They say a fool and his money are easily parted but c'mon. What I see often is people selling e.g. a 2012 but actually is 2011 - could be a mistake - bought in 2012 but was actually old stock from 2011 - something of a grey area: the person might not even be aware of their error. The other end of the spectrum is a guy that posts '2010' model, but that product was last made in 2004. You can't tell me you don't know. In this instance, I posted to say as much in his ad after someone had indicated they had PMed him and I may have torpedoes his sale. His response was to delete the ad and repost with age now listed as '!?'. The ad is now gone, and I hope someone didn't get taken for a ride....no pun intended. Secondhand car salesman have a bad rep, but it appears some secondhand bike sellers are worse.........

I don't think cones are that difficult to deal with, just get yourself decent cone spanners the cheap stuff just bends when the lock nuts are too tight. You will also be 'teaching your neighbours some colourful new words' and wanting a beer if you don't.

Rough luck bud - I guess these things happen from time to time. The missus and I were talking about your bail yesterday and wondering how long it will be before you are healed (or is that operational - with that much metal, we'll be calling you roboslick.........or 'Die Man van Staal'.......sorry bud, hope you don't mind my humour). Maybe you can pull that dusty road bike down and use it while you recover .... Flamesuit on I'm seriously impressed at you writing such a long post with swipe and when we spoke yesterday I thought they had sedated you some too. If that's still the case, double kudos. Despite my dodgy humour above, I hope the docs get you sorted out soon and properly.

Any experience with them, if so what? Also where do you get them (apart from China, obviously)

all the eggbeater are gone - still got candy I think (no I don't work there)

Aren't the Rovals carbon rims - with the hefty price? Thanks, but I'll have to give that a miss - trying to fix the wheel without getting myself a sad 'outsurance' wallet. A bit off topic, but I've hear some complaining about tyre mounting on these rims due to being hookless - any truth to that?

Was looing at Arch EX - Crest is too light for me (or perhaps, I'm too heavy for them.... whatever) - Also unsure of 28 holes though - anyone know who are the agents?

PM sent - Thanks.

Already did before posting. He looked at a few options for me and he suggested the Blunt SL, but then found there is no stock.

Hi All, What options are you aware of in SA for 29" rims that have 28 spoke hole (I'm looking what options are available after a face plant.) 400-450g range for XC race use Existing rim is 604 ERD and the same rim is not available from Scott/Probike currently (Syncros XR2.0 on a Scale 910) - ideally I would like to reuse spokes (per scott site, DT Aerocomp straightpull with red alloy nipples - which I suspect together cost more than the rim) I looked at Velocity Blunt SL rims as an option, but turns out Coolheat haven't got stock of 28 holes and won't have for sometime. Any other suggestions welcome - Thanks

Well Done Eldron - winning his category

Hi All, Looking for a new bike - and particularly keen on the Scott Scale 910 - Best price I have been offered is R33k - do you know anyone out there that could do better? If there are bike shops reading this, you can PM in case it causes a crisis with your suppliers Located in JHB area Thanks

OP: I feel for you - your were sold a product, it failed, and you are expected to fix it and while others were quick to jump on you and tell you it was 'your' fault, I am not convinced. Rubbish about only the frame being covered blah blah, is nonsense. If the bike shop sold you an entire bike, then they must cover the entire bike. Wear and tear on a kids bike with minimal km - again, nonsense. The point about taking back to the bike shop - your transaction was with them and that is absolutely right Personally (and I am guilty of doing what everyone else here has done and making a call with no other evidence than your word), I rate it a faulty installation and/or chain, despite comments about 'cross chaining' and gear change damage and the like (improbable if it is a kid who is not especially strong - again, an assumption). So, with the above said, what I would like to see here is how/why Silverback determined the failure was your daughters fault and not an equipment fault - a technical explanation from Silverback, as to why it failed. Its their chance to clear their name or do the right thing

Why not..... And if it doesn't work, I can add my favourite spirit and drink the problem away Jokes aside, I'll give it ago - thanks

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scott-Foil-carbon-seat-post-/181288819543?pt=US_Seatposts&hash=item2a35a7db57 they pop up periodically there - good luck!

No response - surprising, I would have thought I wasn't the only one who had suffered form this.

I think I know who you are talking about - now works for Coolheat. I can promise you, he, specifically, would never have overloaded a skewer.

Nope - It was definitely Eastgate Cycles - at one point, the highest turnover cycleshop in SA (was located where incredible connection is now) You are probably right about the 'great wrench' with Kim Johnson and his mob - had to take my bike to them for an insurance claim some years back - on return of the bike the rear Dura-Ace skewer was done so tight the cam had actually been damaged - they swore it was like it when they got it, which was BS. End mini hijack - Will be interested to see what the new store holds.

Hi All, I've been having some discomfort recently, especially on my right foot on a pair or Shimano SH-M181B MTB shoes: (The same shoes that caused this https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/134572-how-do-you-remove-mtb-shoe-stud-marks-form-tiles/ while I was trying to do the following mod) When I pulled them apart to have a look what I could do to address the issue, it became apparent the problem is fundamental to the design. Here is the top of the last: As you can see, it has ribs on it, not a flat surface - most notable in the area of the ball of the foot where most of the pressure is applied. Also, the largest cavity between the ribs is where the cleat mounts and the cleat bolts protrude through the internal mounting plate. The problem is evident on the insole - note the indentations: To resolve this I cut a couple of bits from a sheet of 0.5mm ABS I had lying around to fill up this cavity and put holes in it to clear the bolts. The bit do not need to be an exact fit, because you want the shoe to be able to drain (after a water crossing say) - you just want to get a meaningful in supported area. One element Both sets of elements for both shoes after assembling with superglue Element place in shoe - the number of lamination was enough to fill the cavity up to level with the ribs Having ridden on the bike every day since I did this 3 days ago, I can tell you is makes a world of difference - I hope this might help people that have had a similar problem Notes: 1. Other material and adhesives could have been used, This is simply what I had available. 2. I would appreciate it if other with more recent shoes - especially Shimano, would comment if the last design has been changed to deal with this - I'm especially keen to see what the new XC50, 60, 61, 70 & 90 look like if someone is prepared to take a pic of the inside (Thanks)

Thanks - I think Chemco make a number of products - any idea on the specific one?

Thanks all for the replies - especially the one that actually made helpful suggestions. Progress so far: Handy Andy with scotchbright - tried before posting Pencil Eraser - Tried Benzine - still to try New tiles - spares all gone - not retiling 120m2 'Purge' - still to try Salt &/or rubbing compound - I'll save that for last - with that I'll remove the mark but also leave a light stripe on the tiles. Brasso - Tried Toothpaste - Tried

Sadly, it is in the kitchen - I asked the wife and she was fairly certain a coach was not a good idea in the kitchen - no idea why...