here is a more tech explanation... http://roguemechanic.typepad.com/roguemechanic/2006/05/how_does_a_mavi.html you start experiencing some shifting issues that are not the easiest to diagnose. These issues can range from noise to skipping, but usually both. Well, what's up?!?! If you're lucky you or an astute mechanic realizes that the freehub body is exhibiting a significant amount of side play. Again, you ask yourself, "What's up?!?!" "Why is this happening with my relatively "new" wheels?" OK...here's the scoop. http://roguemechanic.typepad.com/roguemechanic/images/img_0460.jpg Exhibit 1: This is a photo of two Mavic freehub bodies. The one on the left has been used for only one season of riding and a few races. The one on the right is new. It's hard to visually see any differences besides scratches, discoloration and the like, but where the difference is is in the thickness of the whitish nylon bushing... The used freehub body is is really bad shape. I know, that it's hard to tell without accurately measuring it, but the first indication of it's condition was the side play that it had with the cassette still installed on it. The reason for this wear is the degradation or wearing down of the nylon. This happens from normal riding but is accelerated by contaminants such as road grit, salt, and also by some types of greases or lubricants. Mineral oil is the only lubricant that should be used. The Mavic tech department uses Pedro's Road Rage which is essentially mineral oil. All of this being said, the easiest way to determine if your Mavic freehub body is shot is to grab hold of the largest cog on your cassette and try to move it inboard and outboard. There shouldn't be any noticeable play. The more there is, the more it's worn
