jacostrydom

I think it is a geometry issue. Not based on facts or science, but a gut feel...

Out in the "stix" it is the best method. More rocky, bit harder, more sandy, bit softer. Experiment and find your sweet spot.

It depends on the configuration of the suspension system. On most the BB and Saddle is fixed to each other and only the rear triangle moves. Then your BB also sags and moves closer to the ground as your shock absorbs bumps

For this sort of money and a "service free - low maintenance" solution I think a Rhollof Hub is a more elegant solution.

Depending on the shock, some of them come with a spacer that can be changed to change the stroke. I have done it on a 80mm Recon and changed it to 110mm.

Easier to ask forgiveness than permission

I use it for training, but they seem to be not as waterproof as mountainbike equipment should be.

If you ride where I ride a Polar is NOT the right tool. (www.beit2cape.blogspot.com)

In good conditions squirt only last about 30-40km for me. The only advantage is that your chain doesn't become black. Carry a little bit of squirt with you. Your Human Bike Interface will thank you for regular of the bike moments.

SAE 90, Gearbox oil.

There are no bunches to hide in on the mountain. It is just you, your bike and the mountain...

Self service is the way to go. Then you can help yourself when you are in the bundus with your bike and something small goes wrong.

Use them regularly and the grease/oil from your bike and hands will keep them tip/top.

Under normal conditions 1 will be bright enough. Try and find the 10 degree version. Makes a much nicer light. This is a battery thirsty option but quick and nasty (and cheap) and very effective. I still use it for training as the added weight is only beneficial while training.

"Rotor" should last 10 000+ km's. What type of breaks?