KDEE

I surf a lot of forums and watch Quad MX a bit...

Thanks Bud, just the kind of answer I was looking for..!

TNT1, thats my motto as well, but aish, sometimes I wonder if its logical but I cant see the answer Slowbee, hijack away bud, we can both only learn more! And Tromps, thanks for the answer.... now how do i know if its a V Brake rim just by looking at the photo or asking the seller... what if the bugger lies and he is in CT or Naboomspruit

Im learning chaps, Im learning, but have this question.. Id like to buy MTB wheels secondhand and there are some sharp deals on the hub here, but all of them are disc hubs... and the rebuild budget doesnt extend to new levers/shifters etc right now.. So can disc hubs be used on the bike without rotors and a V brake set up be used for now? Im assuming from pics here that most have normal rims that can be used with V Brakes... Or am I just being really dof here....

Yeah, yeah Saffa, have you seen what those Radio controlled cars can cost these days!

I have been reading all the posts here and am amazed at the excess payments being quoted. I pay R50 per car for no excess whatsoever and use of hire car ( my motorcycle was included for no excess at n/c ). The premiums with the R50 was still cheaper than outsurance. Broker has moved underwriting business, so am still waiting to see if premium increases, unlikely though I am told. This is just for my cars, not sure what the bicycle situation would be.

Dont you kids have anything better to do than post irriating messages in other peoples threads?

If it is a schraeder valve then you will get some air out and then that slime is going to bung that valve up... unless they put vaseline on the valve itself before they put it back... If it does, get a valve remover from the LBS and take the valve out to get the air out..

\ If you send me your e-mail address via a PM I'll send you a Word document with detailed instructions. Better still' date=' join my Bicycle Repair and Maintenance class this weekend and learn how to do it. [/quote'] Thanks Johan, appreciate that. When I can spend money on anything other than getting parts for my rebuild, I would certainly join your class

I did indeed do it' date=' to both my own and my wife's Raleigh MTB's. No ill effects yet. I stripped the bikes this evening to clean and grease and it is still 100% perfect inside there after a year.[/quote'] How did you manage to do this. I took my cordless drill to do a test and for the life of me could not work out how to get the drill bit to go straight.... the chuck and body of the drill hit the frame and makes the drill it go in at an angle? Thanks in advance for a handy hint...

Olympics at sportsmans at R550 are not bad at all, seen a few riding with them.. Bought a pair of Answer MTB shoes from Cycle Fusion for R500 few weeks back, turned out be too small, so Kevin gave me a pair of Shimanos ( last pair in range ) for R500... love them big style...

Slowpoke, I bow to your better knowledge. I am way too scared of superbikes to have ever owned one, just passing on what the mates tell me.. Then again they are passionate and anal about these bikes..

Not that clued up on batteries, but my mates have front AND back stands for their superbikes. They reckon its important to have both tyres of the surface and the bike should be upright... Something about flat spots in the tyres if left for too long in one place.. On our quads and mx bikes, we always drained the petrol from the carbs and the tank if left for extended periods.. local petrol can turn varnish like over time and gums plenty stuff up...

I have those on my 15 yr old Diamond Back... they work well.... sometimes

Thanks once again for those answers. i appreciate the time taken to type and reply.. Im just shy of 6 foot and the frame is an 18 inch... Ah stuff it, just have to buy a new FS soon!

Jeez, that was an answer to surpass all answers! Thanks Johan and GoLefty.. No oil leakage, so I will ride it for now.

Hell thanks TitusTi... ah if only the young man part was true... Over 40 now and all the what were gentle changes of elevation in the bush when I was young now feel like hills!

Thanks again for all the replies... Im now more confused as there are two replies ( Mampara and GoLefty ) that seem very sensible, but which one... And how does one work out where the best weight distribution point is... Cleats are positioned correctly.. Bike is a 15 yr old Diamond Back Apex Hardtail... ( never had a problem when I was younger ). Riding is very ( at this stage ) light XC..

Thanks for the replies, Fork was stored in the garage presumably.. very little dust on it.. Not sure if it was laid flat or stored upright. Another question ( forgive the ignorance ). I am presuming the oil is for damping and the air for ride height? I played with the air last night and the height the shock ( unladen ) changes a lot when air is let out and vice versa. I then presumed that the air pressure as indicated on the shock for weight of rider translated to sag when the rider was on the bike.... Or am I way of here..

Is there a popular thought that a seat should be fitted in the centre of the cradle on the seat post? I have always ridden with my seat pushed back as far as possible as I always feel I need to extend.. Get the feeling that my seat nose is coming up over time because Its positioned as far back as possible ...

Question for all the clever chaps out there.. and even those who just think they are clever because you are likely to know more than me.. RockShox Duke XC.. 2 to 2 and half years old.. never been used... should I have it serviced or just replace the oil or do nothing and whack it on and ride it in...

Reckon you would still have to drill them out and put new ones in.. I have access to a Riv nut tool of you need..

madmarc, are these rivnuts or plain rivets? If just plain rivets, then drill the tops of the rivets with a drill bit smaller than the rivet head and then rivet the bottle cage back onto the frame..