ALLMTB

Hi Danny I fully agree with what Rude said. My first couple of bikes were all 26" hardtails. They forced me to concentrate on my lines and it really honed my skills not just fitness. I have now converted to a dual and I am much faster on the same trails, more relaxed and more controlled over the rough stuff which all equates to more fun. +1 for duallies!

Thanx, but is the difference in the colouring due to the different plating and/or titanium sprockets? If so, why would some sprockets on the same cassette be plated with a different material or made out of a different material? Is it due to the different torque loads on different sprockets?

I need some clarification regarding the material used to make the cassette sprockets. On my Shimano SLX cassette, sprocket 28 to 36 have a different colour to the rest. They are really shiny (chromed almost) and the rest have a darker bronze-ish colour. What is the reason for this? Are the sprockets made of different materials? I can’t really find any info on the net. There are mentions of titanium here and there but I don’t know if a middle of the range cassette would contain titanium. Your thoughts?

Your best bet would be to contact Probike directly, as far as I know, they are the distributors of Scott bikes.

On my previous bike, which was matt black, i used black insulation tape to protect the frame. It worked very well as it didnt come off with washes, lasted long and matched the paint on the frame. I guess the clear vinyl type stickers would be your best bet. I would not recommend the 'sleeves' that cover the cables where the cables touch the frame as dust and mud still come between the cable and frame which will cause the frame to scratch anyway. Your nearest motorcycle shop should stock something called *Raceface protective film ( I think that’s what its called ) or something similar.

And sometimes you get a double whammy in the form of 'hydrolick breakes'. ha ha!

A mate of mine bought and Middelburn outer ring from CRC only to find out that it does not have those pickup the chain thingmajigs. It does however have two of the teeth flattened off. He is not too happy with it as it means the chain only gets picked where the teeth have been flattened off. But its still works, just not as well.

I run a 2.5 Maxxis High Roller with an older model Rock Shox fork. There is no problem with clearance, but the only problem I have noticed is that because the High Roller has an aggressive tread with the knobs spaced far apart, stones and stuff tend to get logged between the knobs and then scrap the paint off of the under side of the bridge of the fork. Made myself a 'protector' from a tin can for this and it works great. Other than that, no problems. The tire itself is a bit heavy but it has amazing braking and cornering grip.

Good day guys. I need some assistance please. I need to replace the cones and ball bearings ( the balls only ) on my Specialized Stout hubs. The cups are still perfect. My LBS sourced the cones and bearings the last time it needed replacing but now that I have the propper tools I would like to do it myself. Does anyone perhaps know where in the northern parts of JHB one can source cones and bearings from? The cones might be difficult to get but I figured an industrial or automotive supplier would be able to supply the bearings?

Hey guys! Check out this calender, would make a good x-mas prezzie I think! http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/cyclepassion-calendar-2012-32426

Thanx for the feedback. Seems like the Geax, Conti's and Maxxis tires mentioned here do not have such an aggressive tread patern. How do they climb and handle in the wet? With the summers rains coming up soon here in Gauteng, some of the rides might get wet and muddy.

Good day Hubbers The time has come to replace my rear tire on my MTB and I need some help deciding what to go for next. I am looking for a tire that will work well specifically as a rear tire, meaning I am not too worried about cornering grip so much etc. It just needs to climb well on steep and tehcnical climbs. I am busy doing a tubeless convertion so I guess a UST tire would be best, which other non UST tires can be used with sealant? Any feedback and opinions would be great thanx!

Try having a look on MTBR.com Here is the link to the RLT's: http://www.mtbr.com/cat/suspension/2011-forks/rockshox/sid-rlt/prd_453887_6762crx.aspx

Awesome to see older bikes getting a second chance on life. One question though...it seems like the stanchions the Marzocchi fork are the wrong way around...is that on purpose?

Awesome, thank you! Will give them a try!

Good point. I run normal MTB tubes, Kenda, think they are 1.9 to 2.2. Where can I find a larger size DH tube? Are they much heavier that normal sized tubes?

Thank you all for your replies. Think I will try Kevin Rhino's method with the syrup. Dont really care if it is elegant ( if i wanted elegant I would do ballet, he he he ) The different sizes for differant makes and models is very valid point. Perhaps I should try another make of tire. Could it also be that the rim is not compatible with the tires? A buddy of mine has the exact same tire setup as I do but he runs them on Shimano XT rims and does not suffer with this problem al all. Mmmmmmm....

Thanx Patches! I mentioned most of your questions on my original post. But here is as again: My front tire seems to slip on the rim, not so much that you can notice it while braking but enough to pull the tube along with it, pulling the valve stem skew, and eventually causing the valve to tear out of the tube. I don’t run my tires soft at all. ( I have gone through 4 tubes already in a little more than month! Aaaaarrgh! ) Tire/ wheel set up: Front - DT Swiss 445D with Conti Moutainking 2.4 foldable non UST. Rear - DT Swiss 445D with Conti Gravity 2.3 foldable non UST. To answer Pushers' question, its hard to tell what exact pressure I am running as I don't have a pump with a gauge. But let me put it like this. I run my tires hard enough so that they do not deform or fold over when I sit on the bike with my full weight ( 76kg ) when the tire ( stationary ) is on the edge of a brick or similar object for example. I hope that makes sense... Non topic: I ride mostly at the MTN park as I stay a few blocks away, others areas include Kings Kloof, Teak ( think it closed down ) , Northern Farm and the Spruit. I don't really know of any other places to ride, just recently got back in to MTB. Thanx again Patches!

Good day fellow Hubbers First of all let me introduce myself as I am brand new to The Hub SA. I am an MTBer from the northern suburbs of JHB in my twenties. Not too sure in what category of MTB I can place my self but I prefer aggressive XC, Trail and a bit of All Mountain riding. I look forward to hearing from other Hubbers. At the moment I am struggling with a silly problem but it is the cause of a lot of frustration and I need some help please. My front tire seems to slip on the rim, not so much that you can notice it while braking but enough to pull the tube along with it, pulling the valve stem skew, and eventually causing the valve to tear out of the tube. I don’t run my tires soft at all. ( I have gone through 4 tubes already in a little more than month! Aaaaarrgh! ) What I have tried: - Removed the old rim tape, cleaned all the dust out of the rim, replaced with new rim tape. - Cleaned the inside of the rim lip properly to remove any dust, grime or dirt that might cause the tire to slip. - Got upset, swore a bit and eventually tried to glue the tire to the rim with rubber cement. - Suspecting that the tire was faulty I swapped my tires back to front but still the same problem occurs especially with the front tire. Tire/ wheel set up: Front - DT Swiss 445D with Conti Moutainking 2.4 foldable non UST. Rear - DT Swiss 445D with Conti Gravity 2.3 foldable non UST. I have read that sanding the inside of the rim lip with fine sandpaper might help...don’t really want to do that. Is my last resort to go tubeless? Please help!!!