You are on the right track,but before you tighten the top cap bolt, loosen the stem bolts a bit, then tighten top cap bolt, and then tighten the stem bolts again. But careful when tightening the top cap bolt, you don't want to overtighten it.
They are definitely not a new invention, they have been around for yeeeaaarrsss...and I believe their popularity have been on the decline. As for the 'cheaper option' you refer to, at R2295.00 they are definitely not cheap. Look here: http://www.buycycle.co.za/components/mtb-en/seatposts-en/cane-creek-en-2-3-4/cane-creek-thudbuster-seatpost-lt.html
I have the 530's. The are a great. The alu cage around the pedal does help so that the pedal does not roll on the soles of your shoes when you have to clip in in a hurry. I was worried about the durability of the alu cage but after a couple of rock and root strikes they are holding up just fine. They are still spinning smoothly. A real bang for buck pedal!
If you really want to keep the pedals you currently have, why don't you get some cleat shims/spacers and 'raise' the cleat a bit? It will give you more clearance between the tread of the shoe and the pedal body. Something like: http://www.shimano-lifestylegear.com/gl/fw/products/accessory/cleat.php
Have a look at the Forca dropper posts. I don't have much info but I believe the are spring operated. See here: http://enduro-mtb.com/en/review-8-dropper-seatposts-selected-for-testing/ http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/forca-vario-dropper-seatpost-gravity-dropper-clone-272
What bike and year model is it? If it is the dual air model then I can relate. I had the same issue when my - negative air chamber leaked, which meant that the fork had no assistance to compress the initial beginning stroke making the fork feel like is was locked out. Check if you have two valves, one on top and one at the bottom of the same leg.
Hello guys I good friend of mine spends a lot of time time training/riding and after completing the Bridge Cape Pioneer Trek he noticed that he needed to replace a couple of parts on his bike. So I thought I would help him out with the following parts which I have lying around at home. What is a fair price for the items sold as a bundle?: Shimano XT triple crank including XT SLX BB. Shimano SLX 3x10 Shifters Shimano SLX 11-36 cassette Shimano SLX chain Shimnao SLX 3x10 front derailleur Shimano XT 10 speed rear derailleur Avid Elixr 5 brake set, new pads. DT Swiss 445d Wheelset 26" on Shimano Deore/Scott hubs. DT Swiss M210 rear shock. All the items are in good conditions and function perfectly.
Hello all! I need replace my headset and I need some advice regarding the different measurements. The headset I need is a Tapered 1.5" - 1 1/8" semi integrated, that part I understand. But can someone please explain what the following numbers mean?: OD 50/61mm / ID 44/55mm I guess OD and and ID stand for outer and inner diameter, but why are there two number for OD and ID? Also, which headset do you use? The current headset which is fitted to the bike has sealed bearing at the top but an old school/cheap open jobbie at the bottom which lets in a lot of dirt and water. I would like one with a sealed bearing at the bottom as well, but my budget does not allow for Hope or Chris King bling. Please advise. Thanx
Cool beans! That was my next plan, but I was a bit worried about that, did the washers damage the rotor or the hub surface? Or did the rotor shift after heavy braking? If not, I think that's the route I will take if I cant find a proper shim.
Ja I changed the setup, I got Shimano XT rotors which replaced the Avid HS1 rotors. Running the Shimano rotors with Elixir 5 Calipers (don't ask ). The rotor is not hitting the caliper, but I cant get it adjusted enough so that the rotor does not rub against the inside pad. I even tried pushing back the pads as far as they can go hoping they would align themselves, but that did not work either. What did you get machined?
Yip, I ran out of adjustment on my caliper slots. I cant get the caliper far enough inboard towards the hub, so I figured I need to add a shim between the rotor and hub to move the rotor away from the hub a tiny bit.
Hello guys Anybody know where I can find a couple of these in JHB? I checked with the LBS and searched the local online shops but no luck. Image does not want to load. Some of these: https://www.google.co.za/search?q=disc+rotor+shim&espv=210&es_sm=93&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=kcLYUriKKoKqtAaxhoHAAw&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1920&bih=979#facrc=_&imgrc=bATUj16c5vMB5M%253A%3B7Idkb6wPxqvjTM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.jensonusa.com%252Fimages%252FDefault-Image%252FZoom%252F550%252FBR407Z01.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.jensonusa.com%252FSyntace-Disc-Rotor-Shims%3B1100%3B727
If you looking for a trial pedal, get these: http://www.cwcycles.co.za/product/shimano-pdm-530-pedals Cheaper than the XT trail pedals, but almost the exact same thing.
Of course you can, but it would not be a good idea, the 29er frame was not designed to take smaller wheels, which means that your BB height will be too low.
Here is a good explanation: "What is Full-Floating?Full floating rotors, such as were originally conceived, were designed to reduce the tendency towards thermal stress induced distortion due to uneven thermal expansion under load..." "...True full-floaters move on the carriers, this allows them to self-center in the caliper for reduced brake drag and "float" unimpeded for unrestricted expansion and contraction during repeated thermal cycling. The only serious down side is a bit of rattle that reminds you these are indeed full-floaters." Source: http://www.braketech.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=70:what-is-full-floating&catid=17:tech-talk&Itemid=69 Rotors such as Shimano XT, XTR and Avid HSX are not true floating rotors because the disc does not move on the spyder/carrier.
