lyslexic

Lesson learnt. School fees paid. After front and rear shock service, sealant top up and bearings, I am 1K short from the new price

Bike shop that replaced the bearings said the same. That it was caused by the chain falling between the cassette and spokes. This was my first 2nd hand bike and being a 2019 model, I thought I was getting a good deal and that there shouldn’t be anything wrong. Was told that it was just serviced. but seeing all the issues I’ve picked up so far, I doubt I’d buy 2nd hand again.

okay sorted. New hub bearings and replaced the free body bearings while I was at it. The other problem was that the chain stay protector which is made from some rubber stuff, was rubbing into the cassette. Sanded the rubber down and it’s as good again. I guess that’s the price you pay for buying a 2nd hand bike that was advertised “as good as new” ????

Upon further investigation. It’s the bearings in the hub that seem to be poked. They not turning smoothly. Grinding a bit. Can they be replaced or am I in for a new hub?

Pics of the chewed up cassette and spokes.

Used the seatpost as leverage and got the cassette out. freebody seems fine. Now this bike comes standard with an 11spd cassette and there’s a 12spd on here. Pg1230. The cassette was/ is eating into the spokes am I missing a spacer between the freebody and cassette it does the freebody need to shift a bit more out? and while everything is out, I should replace the spokes right?

Thanks, so try get the cassette off with force and look for the spacer ? It's the standard hub. This is all i can get from the website (Specialized, sealed cartridge bearings, 12x148mm thru-axle, 32h)

Hey I have noticed that my freehub is a bit slow/sticky. The cassette is tight and does not spin very freely when the wheel is on the bike. Took the rear wheel off - Cassette spins properly. If I hold down the spindle? (that thingi that the thru axel fits into) and spin the cassette, it's sticky and doesn't spin freely. Do I need to open and clean it out / replace bearings or replace the freebody ? Also - Any tips on removing the cassette? It is really really really tight. Feels like Thor tightened it. I don't seem to be able to make it budge with a chain whip and cassette tool.

Maybe he likes that Vintage / Faded look

i used to use clean green but that got a bit expensive. Now i use Shield Engine Cleaner. It's cheap and can find it at pick and pay. Works for me and no fading of colour.

van gaarlens?

Started off with a Thule boot rack. 3K of damage to boot, Thule's solution to this was to laugh at the damage it caused, and suggest a roof rack Switched over to the bones 3, used it over many years, and it was awesome. Zero damage to the cars. Longest trip was jhb to cpt. Also used it on 4 different cars, all with the same result. Only reason I sold it was that it was not compatible with my new car.

Thanks Everyone, will invest in a skills session. I used to stand up on the hardtail, not really sure why I stay seated now. @droo - Thanks, will pop in for a setup.

not that i know of. Thanks, will try see if that adjustment is possible. Will really help. I get the feeling that the rebound is too fast hence the bouncing.

yip, I am.

Thanks, will keep adjusting then and hope for the best.

Will do. So far, have gone 1x12. I think the brakes are really bad and will change that at some point. The reason for the rear shock change is that I can't get it to work for me. When I go over rollers, I bounce all over the place. my camelbak flies up and smacks my helmet and I feel like the bike is trying to throw me over the handlebars. Have played around with the shock pressure and rebound but nothing seems to help, hence looking to swap it out.

stumpjumper st alloy I know the lt version has a 210 x 50 on the same frame but that also has 140 on the front and not 130 like the st.

Hi Fairly new to the world of dual suspension and have a few questions about swapping the rear shock. The measurements currently are 190 x 42.5 Am I correct in saying that 190 is the eye to eye length and 42.5 is the stoke ? If that is correct then would I be able to upgrade to any 190mm shock regardless of the stoke ? Would I need to stick with 190 or can I go 200 ?

Have done the contacts +Rydons - Works well if you don't mind contacts. Currently just have prescription oakleys. They awesome except when you go through a Forrest and can't see anything. Photochromic > Tint but Prescription > Contacts

R175 later, it is fixed. still wondering if i should learn to do this myself.

Thanks, Will take it to the shop rather.

I tend to break spokes occasionally and usually, I take it to the bike shop, Pay my R120 and get it fixed. The problem is that the bike shop is a bit out of the way (It is the closest one to me) Is this something worth attempting myself? Thinking about having to remove the rim tape to get to the nipple, then re-seating the tire (Tubeless). Would I also have to true the wheel after replacing the spoke?

Been on holiday so finally getting back to this. For anyone doing this in future, The front is pretty much a straight swap (Give or take a few washers) My initial plan of using the existing cable for the rear and just swapping the caliper and lever won't work because I can't get the rear fitting separately, so need to undo at the lever and keep the caliper end on. Getting a bleed cup at lunch and will tackle this tonight. Fingers crossed for an easy transition.

and it's out. 27.2 seatpost for leverage stuffed with a microfibre cloth and it turned like nothing. Will eat more jungle Oats in future