Brighter-Lights

hehe... I must also add, I frequently tap 600W or more doing intervals so I put a bit more stress on a chain than the average Joe... Surely I can do more than 1200km on a chain but by that time the rollers are already very loose and it's better to replace them and save your cassette for the next new set... When I train seriously it's a chain a month, no matter what type or brand I use... HG 53 lasts just as long as the expensive ones.

WHY?? If there is nothing wrong withyour chain - why then replace it? I'm on the HG53 and keep it clean & lubed at all times....2000+km's and still no problem!! I punish my cahinset as well - not the lightest bloke around.... My vote is Shimano HG 53 or 73... I should've been clearer... rotate through the 3 until they are worn out... for me it's 300km a week, so every 3 weeks I clean chains, mark them, start the cycle over. I get around 1200km per chain before I feel that it's too 'loose' , or before shifting starts suffering. At least, that's what works best for me. I been through all the expensive chains, they all take the same amount of time to get stretched. I've NOT tried the Wipperman Stainless Steel, but if I take how the other Connex chains lasted me, I'm not tempted to pay almost R500 for a chain.

I've had it with Wipperman's... Mine were not great... Shimano HG-53... yes... Deore chain... That's all I use... get 3 and change to the next one every 300km... your drivetrain will last much longer...

We also joined ROAG. Outstanding service and friendly people. ROAG is free and all you need is a Cyclo Sport Lic of R75 if you're not competing for National Series Points or National Team Selection.

I've received my letter 2 days after I've submitted and payed... someone else who registered a couple of days before me only got their letter some days after I've received mine...

I also received that letter... but it says the letter is only valid for 2 weeks... pfffffffttt!!! We all know how long we sometimes have to wait before our cards are send...

Yes Bos, You're right. I take it a bit too seriously. I get excited because I'm seeing a lot of these Magicshines breaking, and people still buying them. I've stripped them down and know what's inside. It's not good. So when yours break, you're stuck. That's my concern - where a good quality light will last you 5 years or more. Then the R4000 is actually not that much. Peace back

I don't have to flame the Magicshines... they flame themselves... *pooof* did another one just blew? Just see the how many batteries, chargers and lights broke by reading the threads below the DX sales page. I've indeed sold a few Magicshines to first timers who didn't want to pay, but I warned them pretty clearly. If you're serious about it in the long run, get a real light and invest now. Like GoLefty said: If you've never used a proper light, the MS will impress you. I've you've used the best, the MS is a piece of crap. There's a reason some of us give 2 year and 5 year guaranties.

Be careful buying from DX... Your few orders might've worked this time. DX's customer support is non existent. DX sometimes takes WEEKS to refund you. They show items in stock which never are in stock. If the item IS in stock, it'll be ok... if it's NOT... you'll end up waiting months before it's shipped in some cases. 9 of my DX parcels never arrived... I wasted hours fighting with them and they never refunded me. I waited too long before claiming from PayPal... I now open a dispute very quickly and claim quickly... Cool for you with the Magicshines... but read the threads below the DX item page... LOTS of problems with those lights... Many of them blew or broke after a few rides... not to mention those with charger and battery problems... I've completed a few 100 DX orders in the past. Some took a few months for them to just source the items, while it showed in stock when I payed!!! I've long since moved on...

I mean the whole der cage should be vertical as in with the wheel - and then I meant, when looking from above, downwards, the pulleys should be aligned with the chain... like when the chain is on big ring, but the bottom pulley is aiming towards middle ring... I've always had to fine tune der hangers for perfect alignment in most gears.

I find that on most bikes, when chain alignment is out of sync between the top and bottom, the der hanger is out of alignment in terms of how vertical it is when looking from behind. I ALWAYS bend my der hangers to give best pulley alignment in the gears I use most (big ring front, 5,6,7 back) Even 'straight' hangers sometimes have bad bottom pulley alignment in those gears and that wears out the pulleys a lot faster. So cheak this: When tightening the skewer, how much does the clamp force change the vertical der alignment? Most frames have visible change in alignment when tightening the skewer (as the dropout flexes). Then, with the skewer tightened, bend the der hanger to give perfect vertical alignment. Once vertical is set up, see how the pulley angles line up with the crankset. So you get down and see where the chain is aiming to in a gear, and see if the pulley is running in line with the chain. Park makes a tool to bend the hanger. Be careful, you require a very steady hand and feel for it. But once those angles are aligned, shifting and pulley wear will be perfect! Brighter-Lights2010-03-01 07:59:31

Yes I've had it. Like a coarse feeling / low frequency vibration. Gets smooth after 2 or 3 rides. Even worse so when fitting a new chain on an old cassette.

Winners of Trans Baviaans used Sport - X. I've used their lactic buffer twice in races - but need more time with it. In the one race I cramped like hell but it could be to a lot of other factors like not drinking enough etc. Try it in training first.

Voted - good luck!

Mine's knobbies were not hollow... I know cause I've cut all the knobbies down to make it a semi slick...

I was also thinking Medusa, but now sure about availability. Kenda Karma also...

In the past, I only registered with CSA for one race, and one reason, to be placed in the front start group in Karoo to Coast. I'm in the EC and do the odd classic (MTB), but mostly smaller races in the EC. Now in 2010, more smaller event organisers are forced to be CSA sanctioned and we have to show lic. cards even at races with less than 150 entrants. They also tell me that I can't receive any prize money if I'm not registered. So while trying to register I see this: RACING LICENSE - R300 (per person, per annum) This is for riders who want to be eligible for provincial or national selection. And for riders who want to be part of a national or provincial series. CYCLOSPORT LICENSE (MULTIDISCIPLINARY) - R75 only (per person, per annum) Entitled to all benefits of Full license, EXCEPT Cyclosport License holders will NOT be eligible for national or provincial selection, or points in national or provincial series. Does the above mean that I will still be able to collect prize money if I make it to the podium in smaller races, or bigger races if I take out a cyclo sport lic? Then I'd just not be elegible for Provincial selection or national series points? What's the case in a race like Trans Baviaans? This year I had to enter my CSA number when entering. What do I register for if I only do Trans Baviaans as a big race in a year and have a chance to win prize money? The prize diff between the different lic's might not sound much but for me, who don't have sponsors R200 is a lot.

As far as I remember, the fox lever has very thin sections... not sure how the thread will hold up for those 3mm? grub screws... I can however fill the casting with atomized bronze powder... the weight diff wont be much for such a small part. Sorry... crazy busy day... will answer in detail later...

When it comes to MTB, CSA is kinda like RSA's Gova-ment. They collect taxes but nothing visibly is done... and when someone stands up against them, for valid reasons, they are very quick to defend themselves and decided someones fate without listening to valid reasons or considerign that the person complainign is actually right. Recently they gave a top rider a written warning after he complained when the race comm. yelled at him over the mic (at the startline, 10 mins before start) and send him all the way to the back of the field when he protested. Things like that... they collect money... but they do sweet ****'oll... in that specific race the top riders should've been seeded if CSA did what they are payed for, but instead their stupid 'click' of officials broke one of the favourites to win the race's racing spirit by publicly humiliating him... That's what they do for MTB in RSA... we need a new governing body for MTB in RSA... we need passionate people to run it, not the lazy 'holes currently running it... I agree 100% with above... don't go to races supporting CSA...

Thanks guys... I can cast a lever after I've made a mould, but I'll need an original one to start with... I can DUPLICATE any part, but needs the original to make a mould from. Even a broken lever will work if all the pieces are still there. I'll glue them together and make a mould from it.

Good luck! Great idea! I agree with the others - don't get near anything CSA if you want it to be a success...

I love my Shimano 540's.... not light (350g) but solid and reliable... I've put around 40 000km on mine now... serviced the axled twice. Amazing service...

Thats good, but we're still waiting for a lic card of a rider who was registered in August 2009... will never receive it I guess...

Read my post above about how I fixed it. You'll be able to feel moving rails without taking the seat off. Most saddles, even brand new, has movement where the rails fit into the rail sockets... but not all of them squeek... my Selle SLR 135 also moves a bit but never squeeked... has to be the material...

depends what 'type' of squeek, creak' it is. It can very well be the seatpost (creaking) - in my case it was the loose rails in the saddle's rail mounting sockets - q20 helped, but it got messy. Fixed now - rock solid - no more loose rails.