Brighter-Lights

My Address is : Johannes Gerber PO Box 1332 Uitenhage 6230

hehehe... my girl's Fizik also drove her crazy, had to oil it every few rides... Until I fixed it for good... The rails are loose in the mounting holes and it starts sqeeking with the movement. For R100, I'll cast a rock hard polyurethane into the rail mounting holes - this fills up the excess space and the rails will never squeek again... This means that I compress the rails and fill one side at a time with liquid polyurethane, then cure it overnight in a pressure chamber at 5 Bar. You'll have to pay shipping to me and back to you. Don't try filling it with epoxy's - they're not tough enough. The ones I've tried on carbon fiber saddles before all eventually came loose. Brighter-Lights2010-02-04 11:16:27

I've had mine for almost 2 years.... I payed a lot more locally... It's a hard ride, stiff, very responsive, but stiff.... too stiff to be called comfy... I wouldn't bother with that company's seatposts, bars etc... HEAVY... My frame (bare) is 1155g, and with bolts and clamps, 1224g (16") Will post pics later...

Ti disks wear out quickly... ask Azonic...

I started cycling in August and a month later did my first Karoo to Coast with takkies, flat pedals, the works...it rained most of the race and I finished in 5hr 23 mins... Exactly a year later, I bettered my K2C time by almost 2 hours... yes... one year later I did a 3hr27min K2C. Here I am, almost 4 years later, starting to train with a proper program for the first time and one of the books I'm reading, The Mountainbikers Training Bible by Joe Friel, makes weight training part of the daily routine... I still havn't started with weight training, but I'm wondering how much it will improve me... I've beaten some pro's in a few races before, I've never followed a training program, just rode hard all the time, I can barely squat my own weight for 20 seconds, but I still finish tops in most races... I think that my leg strength can be improved a lot with weight work... I'm just curious to find out how much of a difference it will make to my speed on the bike...

Interesting comparison... massive legpress increase... So what was his weight before and how much does he weigh now?

Also don't get confused... many manufacturers name their grips 'something' ergo or whatever, I referred to Ergon, the brand... www.ergon-bike.com/ My Ergon's never bothered me in technical stuff, got used to them quickly, but what bothers me is the price tag and how fast the pattern starts wearing off... our other set GX1's is 3 months old and starts showing wear. The test pieces I've moulded are made from an industrial silicon with excellent wear resistance and should last a very long time. Brighter-Lights2010-01-26 01:44:26

I like my Ergons very much, but they wear out too quickly for such expensive grips... I'm testing silicone ones that I moulded now - nice and soft, and will probably outlast the Ergons...

You can't really compare the American Classics to the DT 1900's or XT's because they are lighter by a big margin. DT1900 are solid wheels. I have 3 sets of American classics, and one other set with American classic hubs. I'm 68kg, and use my American classics for every day riding. I do about 1000km offroad a month and I get at least one year from a set of bearings, but my one set is almost 2 years old now and only need new bearings NOW. I must say that I open the hubs every 6000km or so, pop the bearing seals out, wash them, regrease them with castrol WB grease and they are fine again. Oh... and I use a high pressure cleaner to clean my bike... I have seen a DT XR1 on a Scott Scale with worn bearings after very little riding... AMC's are fine if you're 70kg or so... Ok... I like Amercan Classics and my latest set is the new tubeless type... But... why not looking at building a custom set on CRC with Hope Pro 2 hubs and ZTR 355's? Heavier with the Hope hubs, but same rotational weight as American Classics...

What were your results before you got a power meter and coach? Meaning, how far behind the pro's were you? What percentage do you think the power meter and coach made you improve? Thanx.

Thys, the Z3, Polar and others that don't use a mechanical strain guage, use an algorythm that calculates Watt from, speed, cadence, rate of acsent, taking in account rider weight, bike weight and rolling resistance. While not as accurate as a real power meter (SRM, etc.) mine is pretty consistent and gives me something to work with. (Just the way they calculated Contador's average Watts and VO2 max on his Alp Duez attack... )

The_Break is referring to REAL power meters. Thys enquired about the cheaper option. The cheaper type meter doesn't give an instant reading, but a delayed reading, as it needs data input such as speed, cadence and elevation change to do calculations to get the power. The compuster is set up with rider weight, bike weight and tyre resistance (road or MTB) And like we all know, even different MTB tyres has different rolling resistances. While it's not always as accurate as a real meter, (the Z3 doesn't take wind speed into account) the Z-3 is pretty consistent and THAT helps you to compare rides and see how you're progressing...

VDO Z-3 PC Link (5 year guaranty) Apparently the Polar is a schlep to set up with all the sensors... The Z3 also has some cons but power reading is consistant... and so far the HR strap has been reliable and the Altitude is also consistant... I got to like mine.

EMS/SA Post Office if it was sent via Parcelforce. Which means it will be like a normal counter to counter piece. After they've accessed it, you will receive a slip to collect and to inform you how much VAT you'll need to pay. Phone Customs or Sapo with your tracking number to hear what's going on... Customs: 011 961 6000 Sapo Track and Trace: 086 011 1502 Brighter-Lights2010-01-13 01:06:55

So why does MS WORD changes 'Tyres' to 'Tires', 'Colour' to 'Color' and many more...?

CRC has got black lowers for cheap... also... minute 1,2,3 uses same lowers...

Julian Absalon won the 2004 Olympic XC on a 28mm SID WC fork with v-brakes... I find the BBB 3 compound v-brake pads to be superior in wet or dry. V-brakes don't squeel in the wet and the BBB pads are on par with my Juicy 7's in the wet. Besides, disk's will cost you a fortune when riding in mud/rain. Just think R400+ for a set of pads while you can get pretty good v-brake pads at R120-00. Don't know who remember the 2006 Trans Baviaans... how many disk pads were metal on metal and had to be replaced during the race while my v-brakes lasted fine. In that muddy Kabouga 60km in 2009 I wore down a set of Juicy 7 pads that had at least 50% left, in one race! (Sinthered) Only reason I ride disks now is to let my expensive wheels look new for longer. Good luck with the HRM - now find a nice book like - The Mountain Biker's Training bible

A good HRM will be of much better value than swopping out brakes. (if you use it correctly in your training) Properly set up V's brake just as well as disk brakes anyway. I still raced with KCNC v-brakes this year and they have even less stopping power than ie. Avid SD 7's...

Hi Geoffro! I've got an American Classic V-Brake set for R1000 - I'm in Uitenhage. They're 1455g for the set. VERY light. PM me for more details. Regards Johannes

Sorry about my media rant, the article is just poorly written, actually very poorly... 911 can at least have someone check their press releases... Reminded me of how my race reports and stories turn out after being 'edited' by the media...

Hope he recovers soon, and make a full recovery. But read that article... "It is believed that the cyclist was training at the track and as he crossed a wooden bridge and he had to negotiate a very steep embankment with a sharp bend at the bottom." and ... "critically wounded" (what about seriously injured) Typically media...

That's a GREAT bike...

I've recently done a deal with 20niner. Excellent communication, great price and fast shipping. Highly recommended.

Ditto...