Wes84

My problem is I bought a fairly expensive bike, carbon fame and what not, recently sold it, now I won’t be able to ride anything less!!!! Got on a really cheaper bike the other day and it didn’t suck, but it was like settling for the ugly girl… didn’t feel as good...

Riding to the spruit...and doing only 100km a month...

Ag ok I'll fix it.

Why don't I believe you?

You are 100%

This has been the way to go for many of my friends and myself as well, even staying on tarmac with my MTB cuts down on maintenance.

Amazingly you know what this is... hobby?

In terms of "having just as much", this brings me to exactly my question:” How much is enough? Enough depends not any more on what your needs are but how much money you have. So how do we get more for less?

just saw that, how do I edit ?

Me and a mate of mine, a devoted MTBer and MTB tech junkie were talking over the weekend. We couldn't help but fall on the topic of the sheer cost and ongoing expense of what the sport of mountain biking has become. Don't get me wrong, I have, I am and I would any day pay the price for this sport I love so much. We have come to justify that paying R500+ for a mountain bike tire is "ok" and surely it is, it has to be. But what other option do we really have? Is there any other option or will we all be sitting on Chinese carbon and home made mods in the end?

Stans, I haven't had a flat while using...get out the old stuff, put the new stuff...(sounds like doping )

Sorry, just added it in the post (R8000)

Recommend a MTB bike for an absolute beginner rider that weighs 160kg's and is 1.9m tall. This may be any bike to start of with doing very short distances, not more that 10km in the beginning. Used as an effort to get active and start losing weight. Changing a life. Perhaps mentioning: - Frame size - Wheels to take the beating - A saddle to sit comfortably in the beginning - Any else worth mentioning when a big guy starts out. Unfortunately budget might be a problem... lets work on no more than R8000.

Doing someting very similar to Crossfit in Nelspruit. Kettlebell and functional fitness at a gym called K-Fit. These guys train the Pumas rugby team and a bunch of other local sports teams and figures. Go check out their site: www.k-fit.co.za

All true dude. What i think in the end it comes down to is for what reason you want disk brakes on your road bike. If you fit disk brakes on your road bike and you can actively say that it increased your performance, helped to gain better times etc. and that is what you want out of them then it would make sense to have disk brakes on a road bike. Fitting them because they look cool is another matter. But if you cant say that it made a noticeable difference in your performance/feel/time/reliability and you don't want them for looks, why would you fit them? It would be a waste.

Then again what are we trying to stop with the brakes we have?

With regards to all heavy trucks still having drum breaks, that is correct, a drum brake tends to have a lot more mileage on it, so they are built to "last" not having to change them every so often as trucks do hundreds of thousands of miles a year. How many times have you seen a truck come down a hill smoke bubbling out of those drum brakes? Not very efficient when it comes to continuous heavy breaking. Sand pits along side the road on downhills to stop runaway trucks? Bad brakes. Slap a pair of those drums brakes onto a super car like a Ferrari, they wouldn't be very efficient, in fact they would melt and probably catch fire. With regards to stopping power and heat a disk brake is very efficient. With regards to mileage and saving running costs a drum would be more efficient.

These where posted somewhere on the the forum a while back. Carbon rotors would make sense on a road bike if you'd want to go disk brake on your road bike right? In my opinion I think riders are constantly chasing performance, new tech and advantage. So if a disk brake in total can improve performance while reducing weight on a road bike it would be the choice over a rim brake. Then if you have a rim break that outperforms the disk brake as a total, that would be the choice wouldn't it? Here is the website if you guys would like to go check it out (http://kettlecycles....le-brake-rotors). Credits to Kettle Cycles for that.

Hi, I've got a Giant XTC 29er Composite 1, (carbon HT frame) it came with the standard Giant wheel set, not even sure what the model is, if any. Running Schwalbe Racing Ralph tubeless on them at the moment. I weigh in at 74kgs. I am upgrading the bike every so often. Looking to go as light as possible as far as possible (to compliment the carbon frame of course ). Off the bat, which wheel set would you recommend for about R5K?

BSN SYNTHA-6, I have tried them all USN, Evox, Biogen... this one...well, what can say, it does its part. After 6 weeks I checked the contents for illegal substances. There were none. It does contain the plastic sugars though; if that is a health issue for you then I'd go for Natures Choice’s new range, 100% natural. Available at PnP Pharmacy or Mopani Pharmacy. Either that or Herbalife.

Some of my friends recomended moving to a Shimano setup.

New Avid brakes (bikes has 400km on it), replaced the pads with oragnic Avids and did the above procedure. On the second downhill my front disk started again...this also only on the front!!!!! No issues on the back. Thinking of replacing the rotor with a shimano XT floating rotor!!!

How to Silence a Squeaky Disc Brake Source: http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Silence-That-Squeaky-Disc-Brake-2011.html Read the full article on Pink Bike: http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Silence-That-Squeaky-Disc-Brake-2011.html http://gp1.pinkbike.org/p4pb7575289/p4pb7575289.jpg

100% turns out a few minor adjustments did the trick, nothing bent at all. No wobbling at all!!! Regular bike service = Happiness!!

Got a band new bike, 29er, this is week 4 on the bike, Giant rims, Scwalbe Racing Ralf tyres made tubeless, put in latex sealant, they deflated slowly the first 2 days. Took the pressure to over 2 bar for 2 rides, then deflated. No problem, then tried to align the logo on the tyre with the one on the rim, the sealant had literally "glued" the tyre to the rim!! Get latex sealant, put in a fair amount, run at pressure as high as possible for a day or two then deflate to desired pressure. Also remove the wheel and hold it sideways, spinning very slowly, very slowly so the sealant can get on the sides of the rim as well. You can even take a small paint brush and paint the sides of the tyre where it touches the rim with sealant before inflating. I think I nearly bent my rim last night, tyre dint even feel it.