Sidmouth

So I need a front derailer, I pop into LBS and buy one, no not so easy. I need a s3 38, which stands for direct mount 38 tooth, all I could get was 36 and 42 tooth derailers, I tryed the 36 but the chain ring would not clear, is there anything compatible with 38 tooth crank

well both time my drive side has done not the other side, no high pressure water either, I believe the drive side on a GXP is 22mm and the non drive side 24mm, Shimano as 24 mm both sides, making sram and Shimano no compatible

Ok great to get to know I am not alone in replacing this crap GXP bearing after 1000KM, just picked one up from my LBS R475.00 opened it up hoping to feel the smooth rotation only to discover the drive side has a pitted feeling, I will have to take it back, looks like they are crap even in the box?

I replace my MTB GXP in November, or 2000KM ago, now the drive side is a bit crunchy and needs replacing,ditto as the one before it, is this normal wear , I am 96KG

Hey those are my photos, below is the info I have, whether it is true or not I don't now, but being there and watching the poor dude get airlifted out you notice how stories just come out on thin air and get pumped up, everyone wants to add there opinion and make it even more dramatic. Was there shortly after. His name is Rusty from Bike Plus (?) seemed to hit the log at speed, fork compressed an he did a double flip. He could move his legs so no paralyses. I reckon the chopper was to prevent further damage on the jeep track. Not nice

OK put it all back together, there is a small amount of play coming from the lower pivot joins. I think I will have to get this sorted soon

I agree My rear suspension is back from Specialized today, Dropped it Monday back Wednesday, not bad. I will mount and monitor the play on full assembly, I hope I feel no wiggle

HI I kind of agree with both comments. There is a small amount of play side to side, just a click click, maybe 0.50 millimetres, I am hoping that when the top screws and suspension is back that this added structure will stop the movement, The bike is 2.5 years old and all these bearings were replace last year May, or about 2800KM ago.

Anyone with experience or in the know have ideas about this

So I took the rear suspension and brain off my Epic Alloy, so the top part of the triangle is off, leaving only the 2 bottom bolts securing the swing arm. I noticed some play in the joint when moving the arm from left to right,does anyone know how much play should be happening,I also understand that without the top bolts there is a lot less structure holding the triangle in place, but should there be any left and right movement, no matter how small.

So I took the rear suspension and brain off my Epic Alloy, so the top part of the triangle is off, leaving only the 2 bottom bolts securing the swing arm. I noticed some play in the joint when moving the arm from left to right,does anyone know how much play should be happening,I also understand that without the top bolts there is a lot less structure holding the triangle in place, but should there be any left and right movement, no matter how small.

Do the cops have to wear such tight pants

I had a type 2, I broke the XO derailer on a tree and replaced with a X9{the cheapest one} I don't feel any difference, but then again I ride a 2x front crank.and i ride some very rutted stuff The little push pin to hold the derailer open is great, but other than that no difference, maybe someone riding a x1-10 or 11 can tell.

OK thanks I feel better about it now, I had a metal one previously many more miles and not a scratch. Will it eventually wear right through?

I took the cassette off to clean only to see that the Freewheel hub has wore groves, which has actually caused the remainder of the cassette to stick, if this initial wear common/normal on an alloy freehub

Thats right, you just remove the axle cups and replace with the conversion kit,maybe it will make a difference, anyone know where you can get them, I have tried everyone in town, no one has.

After checking the wheel at my LBS I discovered that. 1-Wheel was 100% Dished 2-the same wheel that is off center on my bike is centered on all other new bikes. However the old or original wheel sits flush in the fork perfectly, Besides the fork there is one factor that has changed. The original wheel had a 9mm QR axle and this new wheel has a thin QR mechanism{old School type}, could this make the difference. if I could get hold of the following I could test it? In fact the 9mm feels more solid and I would prefer it. .http://www.notubes.com/9mm-Thru-Conv-for-ZTR330330Ti-Front-Hub-P1343.aspx

What is SID

I went to my LBS took the wheel to the mechanic and asked to use the dishing tool, checked 3 times, wheel is 100% perfect. still not happy I asked to put the new wheel on a new bike, perfect. The only conclusion is that my fork is out, in fairness I bought the bike second hand so I have no prior knowledge of the fork history. the only option of the LBS was to file a bit off the fork to get the wheel to alien or to replace the fork, they did me a favor and I owe them an apology.

I agree the standard Roval wheel sit perfectly balanced allied between the fork. The new wheel sat very much to the left, all the filing has done is put a tilt on the wheel so that from the riders view all looks right,but by filing one drop-out upwards has put a tilt on the wheel, quick and easy solution.

Anyone know of a dealer that stocks a wide selection of stans hub converters. I am looking for the below, not many LBS stock all the stock. http://www.notubes.com/9mm-Thru-End-Caps-for-330HD-Front-Hub-P902.aspx

I bought the entire wheel-set from them a few days earlier, I think they are straight from the ZTR factor, so factory built with Stans 3.30 hubs, they opened the box in front of me.

put the wheel in the wrong round, cannot ride it as the brakes are in the way, but just from my observation, looks to be even more dis-centered to the right, the tight way round and the wheel is to the left, I think they where in a rush and this was the fasted way to solve it, 23 Dec not a great day to get a mechnic

So I eventually splash out on a set of ZTR Arch 29 On the first ride I notice that the front wheel is very much to the left, from a riding position I see the rubber on the left and nothing on the right from the top tube angle as the wheel rotates. I could try and manipulate the QR in the fork to lean the wheel back into position but I would prefer for it to be seated flush on the fork. I took it back to the LBS where I bought the wheels the previous day, the salesman said the wheel needed to be dished, so I left them to it, got the bike back in a hour to discover they had filed one drop out in the fork down to compensated, as they said the wheels were perfectly dished. Is this a standard practice? My previous wheel set sat flush in the same fork, or is it ok to be slightly out

Cape Town Table Mountain 24-12-13