Sidmouth

Yip they do, But try and find one, you have more chance of finding a feberge egg

Thanks David that is exactly what I do, it just ridiculous that the freehub is damaged like that, it is a pure design fault, the new one is not cheap.

Has anyone actually done the test and run Shimano rings on a Sram crank

Thanks DaddyG Do the 6 biggest teeth dig into the freehub{the one that are mounted on blocks of 3} or is it just the individual teeth that do damage?

I bought a set of wheels ZTR wheels with Stans hubs, big problem in the hiding was how fast cassette individual teeth destroy a alloy freehub. To slow the wear and save the freehub I have gone out and bought an XT Cassette M771 as it have 2 sets of 3 cogs mounted together and therefore spreading the single gear pressure onto three gears. My concern is will the already damaged freehub now damage the cassette as the mount that holds the three does not have the full foundation of a solid freehub, or are the 5 pivots holding it together strong enough to take the load. I think Sram Cassettes will damage a alloy freehub faster than these Shimano triple mounts

The poor mechanic that has a client coming in for a creek problem, where do you start

This Message is in honour of The one and only SIR Chukky. The damn cleat was loose, that's it, a cleat f$%# The amount of time I have spent stripping the crank and BB, pedal services, OMG. It is funny, loose cleats, Thank you

I agree, I toss a chain after 800km or just before .075 wear, never ever replaced a chainring,and do about 6-8 chains before I have to replace the cassette, I just get those cheap TAYA chains at CWC for R210.00, work as well as Sram 1070 Hollow pins

Chukky, Im not laughing, thinking about it you could have hit the nail in the head. the cleats got wet today, and then the noise stopped, maybe!!

Have thru axle so this ticked that one. interesting I go for a ride in the rain this morning and after 20 minutes the creek stops?

The Shimano and Sram tightening is chalk and cheese very different, the Sram has a 8mm bolt that basically pulls it onto the crank, I honestly think the Shimano concept is a better one. The Cranks are the XO carbon cranks but the bolts and bolt housings are alu I think, I just worry I over tightening can damage the crank arm

Yip opened the SPD pedal lube the bearings and same noise. borrowing another crank is a good, idea, you are going to know straight away., nice one Daddy. in the interim anyone know the pressure you should apply to the Sram non drive side bolt to tighten?

I have tried all of the above, one trick is to pedal off the saddle this eliminates saddle and a few often variables, the Frame is Spec Alloy Epic, Bit I am almost 100% sure that it is the left crack where it connects to the spindle of the drive side crank, After I lube that part and re assemble it is better for a few day, I wonder If I have over tightened or even under tightened.

I am sure everyone has experienced it at one point, something that creeks. I believe my non drive side XO crank has a creek, I have changed the BB 3 times, changed pedals and nothing helps. I am 97KG and when I apply pressure to the non drive side crank at the 9-11 o'clock position it creek and OMG does it irritate me. I have stripped the crank clean and lubed and re built. The other thing It could be is that the crank tightens with a 8MM allen key, while I have a long key there is not much torch to be applied,maybe a good thing, how much torch or NM force should be applied, I don't have a torch wrench to test.

Any Idea the cost

I think I will give this one a go, the 100miler is just to long for me, anyone in the CBD Sea Point Area looking to share petrol and toll fees

Took it to my LBS they had a quick look and did a little truing, they said just like OPENMIND said, rather slightly buckled but strong than a perfectly true rim that is about to blow spokes. This is what they don't tell you on YOUTUBE, by tensioning a few spokes can true the rim, but it throws off the synchronisity of the entire wheel build.

My back 29 acher wheel has a sight buckle in it, nothing major and I cannot feel it when I ride. But I can see it when I spin the wheel, so basically it is just irritating, the buckle I don’t think is too bad like 2mm in one direction. Should I just ignore it or do I take it to my LBS, check in in, wait 2 days and all the rest, I fear that they put too much tension on a few spokes to get the truing right! What is the rule of thumb on these things, as an ex roady True wheels where important but at an average speed of 15km on a MTB is it paramount?

Oh wow does it get complicated. The old bike has a GXP standard BB, it can stay put, all I need is the 2x10 spider for the new crank which is currently 3x10, but the new bike has this Press fit BB, so it looks like I need a 2x10 spider in Press fit as opposed to spider in 2x10 bb30 or gxp?

Yip you have my attention

LOL yes I do, But I will have to convert both cranks to 2x10, to match the current gearing on the old bike, so I will just need a second spider

Great so the spider and not the entire crank dictate the ring number, IE 2 or 3 What does a spider cost? Christie, what do you want for your?

Hi Ysterperd. this is what I was looking for, an answer on that Spider thing, it looks like the crank comes apart even further and I am hoping I can keep the new 3x10 crank but put a 2x10 spider on, sorry speaking with no knowledge but I have seen them selling these spiders in shops?

I dont want to swap the cranks as I the 3 speed is in much better condition, I was wondering if you could convert a 3 speed to 2 speed

Can anyone help. I am about to take delivery of a new{second Hand bike} from a mate, great deal, the problem is I have a 2 speed crank and the new bike will have a 3 speed crank, can one convert a 3 ring to 2 ring, secondly my current bike has the normal GXP screw in BB , the new bike has a press fit bearing type BB