brussel

stilletoX that looks like a night adder..dark V on the back of the head is the give away

JB a quick question on hubs. With a cartridge bearing unit one obviously replaces the cartridge bearings when they are toast. With an XT or similar unit you can replace the balls and the cones - what about the bearing races in the hub? I recall years back having a Dura Ace hub that got water in it after a long race in the rain - stuffed the one race totally.brussel2009-10-11 06:56:31

I did check SKF and so far nothing - will phone bearing man on monday OK so how do the flange dimensions differ on XT vs DT 370's ie can I just swop the hubs and keep the spokes?

OK JB fair enough, I have though three questions: 1. I have this crazy though of replacing the loose bearinga bove with a sealed unit. I can machine the outer race to fit, bt I cannot seem tom find anything with 24mm ID 32mm OD and 6mm deep any ideas? 2. I have Mavic 819 rims which you rubbished sometime back, what other options are there for tubeless 3. What hub would you recommend?

the service is easy tso doing a regular one is not an issue and you can really use any lube. The issue is that I left it too long originally

MANY THANKS..i AM IN Cape Town tho. a new hub would be great, but then I need to rebuild the wheel too not so great. what is the difference compared with the 340?

Ok so I now have about 2.5mm of play at the tip of the 32 sprocket. Where can I get the spare parts for this hub. I probably need most of the cassette internals as there is noticeable wear on the bearing surfaces. I need the bearing retainer, cassette body, pawls and spring as well as the above bearing. ideas?

OK I looked at your vid - cool! two comments: The one I saw was almost twice that size! second is: what would have been pants wetting funny would have been if he had bitten a hole in your tyre!! Yip leet22 they are very pretty, a mate of mine has a pet one. Reckons it is the laziest snake in the universe...it just lies there and does nothing!brussel2009-10-08 04:03:19

that is a big bugger, but smaller than the monster i almost rode over in jonkershoek last year...where was this? beautiful snakes those!

I think the issue is the cassette life and not the chain. Using three chains alternating then will last the same as three chains used sequentially. The issue is that the wear on the cassette is more gradual. I had a cassette that would not work with a new chain even though the chain was not 'stretched' to an unacceptable limit. Add to that you clean the chains more regularly and hence reduce wear.

been down it a million times yip as far as I know there has never been a n issue I have seen the farmer dozens of times and no issue

easy-peasy use super speedway: just before you get to the substation from the beacon head right through a gate and down super speedway to poplars restaurant. Then you head up and over tiekiedraai

if you ride a loop of majik down superspeedway and 2 loops of hillcrest and back it gives you a nice 30km ride with lots of single track, a bit of jeep track and (unfortunately) some tar

bollocks to replacing the cassette...put on a new chain if it skips or jumps then replace the cassette. I am afraid that bike shops can sometimes be a little bit quick to replace parts. I did 6000km on my anthem X1 on one cassette..no issues, and that is a LOT more riding than most folks do. As mamparra said SRAM or shimano no diffs.

Ant Nash was very very helpful and replaced mine...also off an Anthem X1 and it broke similarly to yours although not all the way through. I broke an Aliante too which Ant also replaced. I like the feel of the saddles, but I'll be honest I would not buy one.

plentipotential I understand entirely. The service is pretty simple and I stupidly left it too long. I used only grease on the the rollers and was careful to not get any onto the pawls. Incidentally the pawls were in good nick as was the other bearing. Whilst the rollers don't carry weight, they are pretty buggered so I do think it is making the noise. any idea what a new freewheel is going to cost?brussel2009-09-21 00:41:29

I have a set of DT swiss 370 hubs and the freewheel bearings have been making noise for some time. I decided to belatedly open them up and hmm not good. The bearing up near the spokes was full of gunk. So I cleaned and greased it but it is pretty shot. The rollers are dull and the race has a lot of wear. here is a pic of the bearing I am talking about http://www.cheapbikeparts360.com/images/b/4550.jpg the wheel still worls, but freewheeling makes a rough noise, there is play in the freewheel and I think I may have to do some tlc. So how much does a new freewheel cost? brussel2009-09-20 13:42:17

hey slowtwitch...thankfully the alu is so soft destructive methods may not be that difficult!! but will see. It's OK for now at least.

thanks Delgado - I am in Cape Town!!

if I had to guess it is a steel steerer plugged into a aluminium/steel crown and then carbon lowers. The crack is probably just where the bond is. But I'm not the one who risks losing my face when it fails

OK so I managed to adjust it...well actually I got it totally open, but still cannot get the shell out. Man the thing is pretty stuffed. The bearings have worn a nice groove in the axle. I have adjusted regreased and out the play. But will need to replace it at some point. so I am still stuck on how to get the shell out...

OK so I have a 20 year Tommasini with a FAG bottom bracket also similar era. I cant get the bloody thing out. It is actually running quite well bar the fact that it is loose (ie play on the axle) as far as I can recall it is a one piece unit with sealed cartridge bearings. On the non-drive side the there is are 4 circular holes that one can use to adjust it. I don't have the correct tool but jury-rigging one was unable to adjust it. The big issue is the whole thing is made of the softest imaginable aluminium. So doing anything tends to damage it. aaargh!! Help??

OK so I machined both the bush and the reducers out of vesconite...lets see how it goes.

Vesconite is much harder than nylon is. Interestingly doing some reading I found that the bushes have coatings on them and they don't seem to be alu - too hard. Some riders have found the black coating ones to not last long and th red ones to last the longest. Here is a link to some further infohttp://www.msb-bearing.com/e-product-01-SF1.htm seems the red surface is a ptfe (teflon) surface. Vesconite is much harder than plain teflon. But this teflon with fibre? I am not sure. Jughead did your machine shop make you vesconite reducers and the bush or just the reducers?brussel2009-09-13 23:52:42

thankfully I am the engineer and I have a lathe where did you get your vesconite? plastics seem to be so bloody expensive these days too, that sounds quite reasonable.