brussel

shamus...are those the standard ones or the evolution ones? how well do the non-ust ones seat. My concern is not the side wall sealing - sealant takes care of that (and if you don't use sealant then you must use UST) but I am concerned as to how hard it is to seat them in the field if something goes wrong.

Rude, that is exactly my concern. You head out on a wild ride or a long race and you're left buggered when all goes south. Those eXCeption series are rubbish tho. did a 3 hour ride in the cedarberg last Christmas and ripped knobs off the tires and ripped the sidewalls to pieces - and that was running tubed.

my concern with using non-ust as tubeless is that the side walls are definitely weaker - you don't have a tube there, which as thin as it is does add some stability and strength. But, I am tempted because of the light weight. Using a standard tire can save 200 grams per tire - thats quite a bit!

OK I agree to an extent with the training BUT I race MTB pretty seriously. I ride 5 days a week and at least one of those days is high intensity intervals and at least one of those days is a longer tempo ride f the same time as the race. I still cramp at the end of a race.

the two teeth are probably the two ramp teeth that allow for easy shifting under pressure. I cannot possibly understand how anyone could easily bend the 11 tooth sprocket anyhow. The issue is more likely that your d?railleur is probably not aligned properly. one of the small adjustment screws sets how far out (away from the wheel) the d?railleur can move...adjust that one a little (quarter turn at a time) until the chain stops jumping.

I'd guess chainring is shot...I had similar problem some time back

slowbee simple answer is the amount of leverage. Basically a ratio of the disk diameter vs wheel diameter...if you do the maths, a 200mm disk gives about 25% more stopping power. Also a larger surface to increase heat dissipation.

I had a set of Deore rotors (I think) which specifically said for resin pads only...sold them with other wheels so sorry cant check

I'm keen to try - will see what the cost will be and post here. Got a mate who will knock together the CAD design. Johann. What about some rotors that are not meant for sintered pads- are they made of a lower grade steel? also do you have the exact specs of the IS 6-hole setup? I can measure a disk, but would prefer some link to the actual specs.brussel2009-11-10 10:30:15

Techniblck is good, my issue is that it is really hard to wash off (which makes it good at staying on with sweat) BUT It also gives me blind pimples from time to time - OUCH!

they are steel. not sure if they are heat treated?? you could CAD them and have them laser cut. not sure how much it would cost?

damn...oakpics take good shots but they take fooooooorrrrreeeeeeveeeeeer to get them on the site. the slanghoek ride took almost two weeks!!!

very very pretty! Saw one on Saturday at Tour de Vino...did notice some cracking in the paintwork where the rear shock attaches - almost as if the two 'ears' between which the rear shock fits had flexed putting some hairline cracks in the quite thick paint...

OK as a general question how easy are non-UST tyres to seat compared to proper UST? I've been tempted to try non-UST to save some weight...

yip...just don't over-tighten it otherwise you can pull the rubber grommet off the end of the valve and you'll be in for another R120

I've seen them - they're pretty pricey - do they actually work...currently use a buff which works OK but not well. My sweating is so bad I cannot even wear glasses unless it is a road ride or a slow mtb ride

fogging is not my issue - drops of sweat are...any fixes for that

I actually thought a shorter loop might be better in that it moves then through a smaller angle? Full cabling is the shiz, I have it on my rear derailleur. I always use a good quality inner....I have used both the Teflon and normal stainless and have not noticed any difference, although as you commented the Teflon wears off so fast that I cannot see it really helping things....

I have an anthem X and I find that where the cable does a 90 degree bend at the seatpost, the cable outer wears very fast. If I put a new one on within 2 weeks it has gone from silky smooth to a slightly ratcheted or bumpy feeling as the inner has worn through the low friction lining of the outer. If I turn the outer cable so that the inner runs on another part of the outer then it is smooth again - for 2 weeks until it grinds through the teflon layer inside. any ideas on what to do to solve this or is this just part of the deal?

use any grease you like. get a syringe stuff some in and voila...there is nothing special about the cycle specific grease except the special price

OK so I have an old tomassini and I need another seatpost for it and I thought I'd see who on this thread would be keen to swop for another 27.2 post. I need another 6mm- 8mm length on this one. good condition, some scratches below the max level indicator. northern suburbs of Cape Town brussel2009-10-22 05:32:02

OK so I got it sorted...finally I tried everything to get it to rotate so finally i resorted to cutting it an peeling it and then with great pressure in the bench vice I managed to get it to turn out once I had destroyed the other side

I am with Big H on this it is getting more and more frequent...will click the report button (which until now I had never noticed!)

OK so I have a retro tomassini that has a POS fag BB in it. It is made of plain aluminium - not alloy - plain soft as soap aluminium. using a proper BB tool with even moderate leverage totally rips the alu to pieces. it is stuck and it is now in pieces in the bike: the outer ring on the one side will not budge and in the process of hitting it with a screwdriver and a hammer it disintegrated. the other side will not budge even with two 5mm holes and some serious leverage on some high tensile bolts. help? my current idea is to cut with a hacksaw transversely (parallel to the BB axle) into the steel thread on the BB and then 'peel' it out.brussel2009-10-20 13:13:35

they look good