brussel

well I have literally just walking in from the workshop. The new rotor has helped but not as much as I hoped. I removed the caliper, cleaned it with WD40 re-bled the brakes, lubes the bolts and washers...and I think I may have solved the issue -- will keep you posted

replaced the rotor - it is hugely improved, but not 100% so it is not the pads or the rotor.... slight looseness in the wheel bearings creating resonance?

except they have been fine for over a year of pretty hard riding including the training for and riding of an epic... so the only issue I can come up with is wear of the rotor or perhaps the resonance of the rear triangle as pivot bushings wear down...

they are the avid G3 rotors http://www.pricepoint.com/images/styleImages/D_115%20AVDG39.JPG

only the back one, using the same kind of sintered pads I have always used...

I can be doing 50kph or 5kph - hard barking is OK it is under moderate braking force that the problems start... monorail front and continental on the backbrussel2009-12-22 03:34:10

a hammer would work - probably will break the frame tho the peg is called the axle... seriously though, you need a tool that looks something like this http://www.comparestoreprices.co.uk/images/sh/shimano-bottom-bracket-removal-tool.jpg

I have avid elixirs on an anthem. the last few weeks I have a terrible low frequency squeel/vibration that I can feel through the whole bike. At points I cannot feel if the back wheel is starting to lockup or not. I have cleaned the rotor, lightly sanded the rotor, changed the pads around left to right, changed them front to back, de-glazed the pads on a smooth cement floor, remounted the caliper and ensured everything is torqued up as too with the rotor, lightly greased the back of the pads it still does it...help!!!! next option buy a new rotor CWC has alligator ones for R140brussel2009-12-21 13:40:33

hey splat mine is outside warranty, but this is a wear and tear issue anyhow

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Hi tech geniuses..I needs some advice.. I have avid elixirs and love them. But today I noticed that the right one has play in the lever blade. So I disassembled the lever and the issue is the pushrod....well sort of. The pushrod fits into a cylinder on the end of the piston. It is a cylinder with two slots running length ways, and the ball on the end of the pushrod plugs into this. When you disassemble the lever the pushrod unplugs so you can take the blade off. The issue is linear play in the cylinder into which the pushrod fits. It allows the pushrod to slide about 2 or 3mm linearly meaning the end of the lever blade has a fair amount of play. So any solutions? I am leaning towards compressing the cylinder with a pair of needle nose pliers to make the fit of the pushrod tighter....

you must squeeze the links together first then slide them apart ie squeeze the sides towards each other and then slide on side forward and the other backwards...hope that makes sense If the chain is really dirty this can be difficult to do because of gunk in the link stopping the squeeze happening.

I am building my hub bike to...rewarding AND cheap I'm coming in at about R5000 Mavic Ksyrium wheels (almost new from hub) 105 sti (new from hub) Ultegra derailleurs (new from hub) 3T bars and KCNC stem (almost new from hub) New post, crank, cassette and chain from chain reaction Alu frame with Carbon fork So I am sure you can build one up pretty cheap as long as you don't rush and wait for the good items to come by

what!?! 10 6hour rides...that is about 5 more long rides than I did to ride the epic I think it depends on what base you are coming in with

you got contact details?

same as sandblasting except they use fine glass beads that are less abrasive. Sandblasting will remove aluminium...not good It seems the beads are not the best at getting the paint off...might still need to strip the paint first though.

So I have an aluminium frame I want to strip and clear coat. I intend to use paint stripper to get the paint off, but then what to do to finish the frame? ideally bead blasting as it gives a uniform finish. Anyone in Cape Town got a contact. The only place I have found so far is pretty pricey at R400 or thereabouts. I'd have thought providing a stripped frame it would take 15 minutes to bead blast the entire frame. ideas?

sigh yip...tough living in the cape! 8:00 this morning, not a breath of wind...it's a hard life, but someone's gotta do it! brussel2009-11-28 09:12:41

aaagh Jules...brilliant idea...will do that and let you know!

I replaced the cables (inners and outers) on Thursday last week, they're all good... What does seem to help is if I move the d?railleur closer to the cogs...ie the little screw that adjusts how far the pulley is from the cog is as loose as it can be making the pulley as close as it can be. However if I move it a little further by hand the shifting is OK. Basically meaning that if I take some of the tension off the upper pivot things improve quite significantly (hope that makes sense!)brussel2009-11-22 23:36:50

the kit is pretty old (like 15 years plus) the d?railleur is definitely not as good as it used to be, there is some play in it. cables are good, pulleys seem to be OK too... But if the d?railleur is the cause...why only in that gear?

nope all good, no bent teeth...sigh

I have been doing my own bike maintenance for 20 years. I've adjusted the $#!T out of this setup to no avail... no money to upgrade

I have a campag record 8-speed set up on an old Tommasini. The cables are new and the rings, cassette and chain are new too. All the gears shift well except the 3rd smallest on the rear. This is the gear change that has probably been most used on the bike in its long history. Is it possible the indexing in the lever is tired/worn? It does seem that the pulleys line up with the cassette cog but it wont shift, it just skips for ages and I have to half shift to get it to actually move. Any other ideas on how to solve this?

shamus, how do they fit on UST rims...I have a set of Mavic 819's