brussel

Mampara I dont get ghost shifting but I do find I have to overshift to get the shift to work cleanly

in short, the cable travel per shift is less with shimano than with SRAM hence there is no compatibility between the two. The theory is that dirt makes less of an effect with SRAM

without opening the debate on SRAM vs himano here is my 2 cents: i have had two sets of XT on two different bikes, I have had great shifting but I had to replace cables every 4 months or so to keep it running well. I had at one stage SRAM twist shifters and I rode with one set of cables for more than a year including training for and riding an epic - no problems, nada, nothing. I can only assume it is the 1:1 actuation ratio of the cable - whatever it is, I set twisters up and never touched them again.

the 75 invite last year had over 2200m and the 60 had about 1800m I heard that knysna had 1900m of climbing and it sure felt like it as for mudfest, last years burger was really dry...knysna this year though was EPICALLY muddy thankfully I left my old cassette and chain on and I might see if it will hold together till the burger too!

what has the weather in Kysna been like? and how wet the forest? we're heading up this weekend for the MTB race...

Some pics from today's ride. Mtbmom cranking up dorstberg singletrack on meerendal Me getting stopped by the cows on malanshoogte and mtbmom spinning the big wheels with stunning farmlands in the background....sigh...gotta love the Cape!

manitou, rockshox and fox if it can deal with a motorcycle and it's the same weight viscosity I am sure it can deal with an MTB

dont head to a local motor cycle shop: BelRay fork oil comes in 10wt and is less than R100/l which is a LOT cheaper than fox which is several hundred/litre and then a heavy castrol gear oil is a perfect replacement for the float fluid. The one I have is EPX 85w-140 I have used these for years with no problems and it works out significantly cheaper.

nice! I am keen to see how the finish holds up over time!

I ride a 29er with a 38 tooth blade and never have problems and I race and ride pretty quick for what it's worth 39 is definitely the winner

but someone has to do it contermanskloof this morning with Mtbmom in the panorama Meerendal's Dorstberg to the left and Hillcrest's Kanonberg summit to the centre-right and Mtbmom to the far right

Johan I must disagree.. I had a Niner air nine scandium that I cracked within 3 months NOT on a weld but at a bend in the chainstay

here is my undecaled clear coated trek (not a Raleigh ) here is also a closeup showing the worm tunnels of corrosion through pinholes in the clear coat.

Hairy when I did my frame I found that once the paint was off giving it a uniform brushed look with a scourer took about 45 min holding a strip of scourer between two hands and 'buffing' it. If the frame is already done I reckon you could do it even quicker, perhaps 30 mintues to get it back up to good looking. From what I hear if you use car polish or similar you should not need to do this very often. I might re-strip my clear painted frame because of the corrosion and re buff every now and again...it looked much better without the clear coat

wow that looks pretty porn - imagine a frame like that!

no problems putting too much in other than the weight issue

As far as I know you can only chrome steel not aluminium

nope one coat is all you get, but climbing stuff (and I have tons of that too ) really is abused I mean I hardly drag by bike up the side of a mountain (well never intentionally!) but imagine what climbing stuff would look like if it was painted! To do it at home I sued a piece of alu roof flashing as the cathode, battery acid and an aluminium welding rod to hold the piece, pop them both into the battery acid run DC current from a battery charger through the solution and voila! Then I used clothes dye and into boiling water...worked pretty well and would be even better if you could get hold of the proper dyes.

I dont work in the industry but have had things anodized and done it at home with small parts that I have machine for telescopes (another hobby ) it is MUCH tougher than power coating, but it cannot easily be removed without blasting or acid etching. Titanium can also evidently be anodized, but the process is different as far as I know. But it looks like this on Titanium, rather interesting pinks and purples...can look really nice or really bad http://www.instructables.com/image/F6MXA2CFUVSFZLX/Anodize-Titanium.jpg

anodizing is not like a dye as a previous poster mentioned. Anodizing chemically alters the surface of alu making it hard and porous. A dye is added and then it is boiled to seal the pores. I can imagine decals do not stick well to it.

I did a similar thing but clear coating is not that simple. I had it done by a mate who works for BMW so it was a super quality finish and the guys did great work but there are tiny pinholes in the paint that let some sweat through (I sweat profusely) it looks like I have little worms corroding their way under the clear coat. I reckon if you wax the uncoated alu, you could get away with a few months between polishes. I used a scourer even better than steel wool!

L2Climb I cannot get that file to download...what does it say about tomorrows weather?

could not find Jack Parow

is there actually snow forcast this year? last year I dont recall there being much but holy cow was it cold!!

top five: Christian Kriek Stephan Ihlenfeldt Timo Cooper Hannes Hanekom Andreas Studer