popcorn_skollie

The doctor says my resting bp and heart rate is normal. I'm going to get my blood sugar checked out. Sounds like a good suggestion. Thank you. My heart rate seems fine during rides and often feel like I could go faster or longer before being out of breath. But I pace myself because of fear for getting a migraine.

Yes someone suggested this to me and I've done it for my last few rides with mixed results.

Over the last few weeks I've been experiencing mild, moderate and intense migraines randomly after activities. Not always. But sometimes. I've been to a doctor who says pretty much the same thing the internet does. Its hydration, nutrition and rest related. Versus the duration and/or intensity of the sport. Which I am not arguing. For the most part I tend to feel better after an activity if I had a good nights rest, ate a good breakfast and drink lots of water. That goes without saying for anyone realy. But not always, not with me. There are certainly exceptions. Its the exceptions which made me start this thread. For eg. I recall a 25km ride after only 4 hours of sleep the previous night. Two bananas and water during the ride. I felt fine during and afterwards. Then on a seperate ocassion, despite being well rested with lots to eat and drink: I experience intense pain after only a 5km ride. Why is it so random? Am I unfit? Genetically predisposed? Do I have some sort of vitaman deffieciency? What? A little about me. At 33 years old I'm certainly no athlete and enjoy sports rereationally. Depending on conditions and free time I may decide to run, surf of ride not more 3 or 4 days a week (Not each) I never surf more than and 2 hours per session I never go further than 5 km per run. And hardly ever cover more than 10km per ride. These days I tend to squeeze in a quicky more often than go the distance because of time constraints. But I've been a little more than cassually active for as long as I can remember. Its starting to get in the way of my passion for doing these things. Which is depressing. I dont even want to enter any races. Sigh. Any similar experiences and/or suggestions to try and pin point the problem or help overcome or manage it would be greatly appreciated.

Please I beg of you DO NOT spray that frame with a blikkie. Do it right you wont be sorry

http://i.imgur.com/ewmnBR6.jpg problem solved

What do you mean 'found' ? Please elaborate

http://www.velospace.org/files/P1020099_1200x900.jpg just get them tt bars. sorted

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb204/bikerphil/ebaynrs001.jpg Looks pretty easy to disassemble. What colours are you thinking? Remember to remove the dropouts I completely forgot about that when respraying. Also remember to slap your stickers on BEFORE you spray your final coat of clear. Good luck and keep us posted. With pics!

https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/135210-unemployed-hubbers-2014/

Got a little over ambitious down Alice in Wonderland i think it was on sunday morning. Took a tumble. Nothing serious. There was no impact as such. No air or oil leaks as yet. seals seem fine...for now anyways. Been reading up about all sorts of fixes. Wondering if any lbs in cape town actually does them. Or if there is a mad scientist out there who knows what to do this is the fork http://www.marzocchi.com/template/detailProdotti.asp?idC=1528&IdFolder=113&idMY=30710&IdOggetto=30803

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0uVkgBnWLs Reviews: http://www.wearable.co.uk/reviews/leo-fitness-intelligence-review/ http://gadgetwhore.org/2014/07/leo-an-intelligent-wearable-fitness-device-that-actually-monitors-your-body/ Leo can be per-ordered but there's a long waiting list and no beta/demo reviews as yet. Still...looks promising. Timeline for release summarized below. some more info: http://techladon.com/leo-wearable-fitness-intelligence/

http://i.imgur.com/khtu2hw.jpg can you imagine sitting behind these bars? Jissis reminds me of when my mom took me to see michael knights kitt car when i was a kid

beat me to it

I've learnt the hard way too. The old cheque deposit reflecting in account after an EFT proof of payment was sent is a scam we should all be aware of by now. We are so concernend about the money reflecting we dont check the source of the money. A statement should reflect if a payment was made via cheque or eft. Unless its from one of my regular clients. A proof of payment means nothing to me.

thanks man. something like this should really be stickied for all the new hubbers. (and probably some of the veterans too ) These days thehub just seems to be more about thehub than about riding bicycles. kudos for the awesome effort Now if you'll excuse me. I have to print 4 installments

:clap: :clap: :clap: thanks for all the time and effort man i thoroughly enjoyed reading all that. always lekker to learn could installment 4 please be on 'enduro' ?

I'm also still new to all this and still learning ALOT. I think that one of the most important things I've learned is that the amount of travel a bike has doesn't necessarily limit it to a certain mountain biking discipline only. Not to mention that bikes can be changed. I've seen enduro bikes with dual crown forks and downhill bikes with single crown forks. I've seen the exact same frame used by two completely different bikes which have been setup by different components and intended for different uses. Eg. The brass sx was a bike aimed at aspiring freeriders. But it only had 100mm of travel in the front and rear. There are many xc bikes that have more travel than that. Frame material. The thought of a carbon downhill bike scares me. Bike geometry is an equally if not more important aspect. The distance between wheels determine the balance you want between speed and handling. Wheel size (jeez lets not get into that) Head angle. Steeper head angles are usually found on downhill bikes so you don't go flying over the bars. But when you change the travel of the fork infront. Suddenly the head angle is also changed. Axle size and spoke count. Your average xc bike might have 32 spoke wheels and narrow qr axles. A downhill bike wheel set will probably have 36 spoke wheels and a thick 20mm through axle infront. But you could have an xc bike and slap on a fork with more travel and a thicker axle and suddenly the bike is more enduro/am worthy. The most important thing to consider when choosing a bike is yourself, the rider. What do you want out of the bike and what sort of riding do you find the most fun. What do you weigh for example? A downhiller that weighs 60kg certainly doesn't need 200mm of travel. Unless they're dropping you onto the slopes from a helicopter. Whereas an xc rider who often goes on long rides should probably fork out on all the latest plastic components. Find the balance meant for you. Then once you're grasped a somewhat general understanding of the jargon being thrown around. Its important that you try and see through all the labels and marketing ploys and actually look at the bikes itself. I still believe that words like 'enduro' are elusive for a reason. Although i generally associate it with all mountain style riding. I still have no idea what it means. I do however know that if you take an all mountain helmet. Make it black and slap on the word 'enduro' then the price would double. Edit: If I'm talking *** someone who knows better should probably correct me. Like I said. Still learning

funny, all the bikes i want are elsewhere

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PC2NXJ_LGjM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UoNtIkRm1HE

thinking of getting those baggies. how are they?

typical sally

bump

that is so sick... the nuke may have more travel but I'll take the trek if I had the choice. I haven't seen a dual that managed to line up the slope style of a dj frame so perfectly.

I'm very inexperienced. But if there's one thing I've learned from a few upgrades, its that in the rear, sram and shimano shifters and derailleurs parts are NOT compatible. Or at least, not meant to be since they have different indexing systems. (I'm sure a few mad scientists out there have managed to make it work in certain cases though) Sram have however made a line of shifters called 'attack' that came in 8 and 9 speed some time back. They were entry level shifters that were meant to work with the shimano derailleurs only. Anyways if it were me, I would run a single ring upfront and go the gripshift route for the left side of the bar. You wont need to run a longer cable as you are simply switching sides. its also way easier to become accustomed to shifting in this way as apposed to fiddling with your thumbs or fingers with a shifter which is either going to be the wrong way round or upside down Edit: I forgot to mention. Shimano have a line of gripshifters called revoshift. So sram are not the only ones. its worth looking into.