Berg Man

I'd use 18mm ply because 15mm can be an issue when using hinges and screws as they want to push through the thinner board. Try Eco Timber Traders. They have a JHB branch. I use their Durban branch and have only great things to say about them.

Battle of the egos. Unlikely, but I really would like to see McGregor take this win. Maybe if he can get Mayweather to stop running around the ring...........

That's cool. Rough estimate on price? You can pm me if needed.

I've also just bought the Lyne post. So far I'm very impressed.

Anyone have experience with Dewalt tools?

I wander if Hilti is worth the extra money

I've recently been pondering hte same question. Makita is getting ridiculous. Problem is my whole shop is Makita, so I would likely have to start phasing that out and bringing in a new product. But what?

It is a common problem with the Monarch shocks. Mine does it too and it's a brand new bike. Apparently there is a problem with the internals in some of the shocks. The issue seems to be that one of the shims kinks and that is what causes the noise. But as said above, contact Pyga directly. They are usually very helpful. I'll be sending mine off now that Berg and Bush is complete.

I'll just leave this here.

My new baby. Few bits to still sort out and upgrade. Like the engine......

I hear you re the kitchens. I'm getting back into the furniture side again slowly. Far more rewarding too

Hmmmm. I am using Articad, but I'm not loving it much these days and it's pricey. It doesn't do furniture though. I'll look into AutoCad

I have a question for the business owners here. What software are you using for designing kitchens etc? And do you have a software solution for designing furniture?

I know the feeling abut gluing. Do yourself a favour and try order some Alcolin 190 wood glue. It works fairly well on most wood types. It has helped me in the past when I battle to glue oily woods too.

Good job stretch

That may be Padauk

The other reason of course is that they usually have plenty timber available.

It's an interesting point that. A few tests have been done by setting various buildings on fire. Steel begins twisting at around 800 degrees I think, melting will be higher. When it reaches that point, it melts completely and that's the end of that. Yet wood, even at those temperatures, still only burns on the surface, So if, and this is the biggie, you can extinguish the fire quickly enough, the wood will still be structurally sound. You could theoretically just clean off the burnt surface and carry on. Obviously this would also depend on the wood used too. The Japanese actually pre-burn the surface of wood to use it as a fire retardant method. http://www.improvementcenter.com/imagesvr_ce/3077/charring%20wood%20for%20siding.png

Characteristics: When freshly cut the heartwood is a distinct yellow in colour, but on exposure to light it quickly becomes golden brown. The grain is usually interlocked and the texture is rather coarse but even, and the wood weighs on average 660 Kg / M3 when dried. Large, hard deposits of calcium carbonate called “stone” deposits, are sometimes present in cavities, probably as a result of injury to the tree. Working Qualities: Iroko works fairly well with most tools, although with some dulling effect on their cutting edges. On quarter – sawn stock there is a tendency for grain to pick up but an excellent finish can be obtained if the grain is filled. It takes nails and screws well, and can be glued satisfactorily. Uses: The timber is of great importance in both East and West Africa. It is valuable for ship and boat building, light flooring, interior and exterior joinery, window frames, stair treads, furniture, counter tops, carvings, marine uses such as piling and in dock and harbour work. http://ecotimbertraders.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/Iroko-1-960x300.jpghttp://ecotimbertraders.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/Iroko-2-960x300.jpghttp://ecotimbertraders.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/Iroko-3-960x300.jpghttp://ecotimbertraders.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/Iroko-4-960x300.jpghttp://ecotimbertraders.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/Iroko-5-960x300.jpghttp://ecotimbertraders.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/Iroko-6-960x300.jpg

My apologies my good sir, you are quite correct. I have personally never used it. Upon further investigation, the "oily" feel comes from the calcerous dust often found on the wood which can be mistaken for "oil".

It's pretty. Quite oily, so make sure you get the correct glue to go with oily woods. Nice tight grain and finishes smooth

I know how you feel. My crew is at a house today replacing a shelf in a BIC that "just broke" with jerseys on them. We only assemble units with screws, not nails. Funny how the broken shelf is the second from the floor........

Hmmmm, that's annoying. Wander why the picture is sideways?

We also do some restoration work for fun. Someone has just dropped off a Kiaat and Stinkwood table they want repaired and restored.

So this thread had got me missing solid wood. We only used to produce solid wood furniture, but started doing kitchens too. The kitchens side has been keeping us very busy over the last few years and, as rewarding as that can be, I miss solid wood. So I will be doing some sideline projects and will start making contributions here