Hi all.
A while ago I broke spokes at about 1 every 7 rides. After about 14 was replaced I went to a new LBS and it stopped for about 4 months.
This weekend I broke the second one this month. Why does this keep on hapoening?
Any advice will be valued.
Mtb, gravel roas only and I weigh arou d 110kg
All of the above plus what wheels do you have?
What is your actual budget?
@ TILMAN...any news on what you ended, or going to end up buying...?
I know this is an old thread but I am also keen to know what you decided to go with TILMAN!!!
I'm heavier than you and my Spez Allez is holding up fine. Had the back wheel strengthened by a wheel builder for R400 and have had no problems.
It's an entry level Allez. They're cheap.
Don't go the Mtb on skinny slicks route. It's not the same!
Care to share how your wheel builder went about strengthening your rear wheel? Thicker spokes?
Out of all the MTB tyres on special at CWC at the R400 less mark, best would be the Vittorio Saguaro. Good balance of grip and rolling resistance! Pity the Barzo isn't on special too cause you could use that up front for more corner grip.
If you dead set on Maxxis then go crossmark 2.1 or ikon 2.2 rear and Ardent 2.25 or 2.4 up front.
The most durable setup would be Crossmark 2.1 rear and Ardent 2.25 front as they both use the LUST casing which is slightly thicker and heavier than the EXO casing of the others.
or....for a series race setup Ikon 2.2 rear and Ikon 2.35 front but don't be too aggressive in the corners...
Ah.... Now all you tiny feather weights can back off, this is my dept... I'm 6'6' and 100kg... Honestly, avoid carbon, you will either crack or flex it, try find a decent Cannondale CAAD or a Merckx in a std geometry, dont even dare look at a compact frame. Cannondale have a awesome warranty system and the CAAD series are strong, Merckx are brilliant but scarce. You will most likely need a 120mm stem or longer, and longer cranks too. You are most welcome to come over and take my 63 Merckx for a ride.....there was a 63 Cannondale frame on the hub a few days back for a good price!
So most XL's come with shorter cranks and not 175mm like on the XL mountian bikes?
i am 6.5 and same weight.
I ride a jamis 61cm carbon with campag scirocco wheels, it is bulletproof, light and very fast.
Alu frames are great, look for a Trek 62/63. the Merida 59cm can also work with tweaking and are great buys.
good luck bud
When you say tweaking to the Merida...are you refering to using a longer stem or seat post?
What other tweeks could be done?
The 61cm of other brands are usually the same as the 59cm in the Merida with a few changes here and there...I suppose it is just marketing at the end of the day but they all seem to be pretty much very close...
As for tyres you would have to check the clearance yourself or at the shop but 28c should be ok.
30 might work at a push but you would have to test it. Maybe get a shop to test with spare tyres if they have.
Cycle Lab has the Merida scultura 300 on special for R10 999.98 and it has the Tiagra groupset which is one up on the Sora/Claris of the Titan.
What is your budget?
M785 is the older XT and M675 is the older SLX which were only available in I spec B mounting which allowed an I spec B shifter to integrate into the brake mounting.
M8000 is the new XT and M7000 is the new SLX which only comes in the new narrower I spec II mounting to allow an I spec II shifter to integrate into the brake mounting....
If you currently have a clamp type mounted shifter then you will just mount it next to the brake lever of whichever you decide to go with!
Which series of XT and SLX are you looking at? M785/M675 or the newer M8000/M7000?
What shifters do you currently have and what are the mounting types i.e. I spec A or B or II?
I have a 2x10 setup on my Anthem. If I am on my smallest chainring how far down the cassette must I be in my gears for cross chaining to become a problem?
Same for when I am on the bigger chainring how far up on the cassette for cross chaining to occur?
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When I ran 2x10 I was mostly in the big chainring and used the full range of cassette gears. I only ever dropped down to the smaller chainring on really steep inclines or if I was buggered
My chain did not show any excessive wear due to this at all!
But like was said already this seems to be a thing of the past...possibly more of a problem on 3x9 due to the greater extremes and thicker/wider chains... I could be wrong though
It is indeed.
On a 1x11 you should not use the top or bottom four sprockets on the cassette to avoid cross chaining.
Yes just stay in the middle and you will be fine
Finally got my 25mm ID rims
Had Wayne from Rapide rebuild my wheels using my existing hub, spokes and nipples to keep the costs down and boy what a difference they make! Much stiffer and more confidence inspiring....even got a few more PR's on the usual technical sections I do.
There is much less tyre roll now, especially with the 2.4 ardent up front, which was kind of too wide for the original cross country like skinny rims anyway .
With the original wheels I ran 2.2-2.4 bar at the back and 1.2-1.5 bar at the front depending on the terrain. That was Ardent 2.4 front and Ardent 2.25 rear.
With the new wider rims I have changed to an Ardent Race 2.2 rear as I was worried about frame space clearance and it seems it was the right thing to do as I have the same clearance I had with the old setup, which is about 6mm either side! It is not bad now that it is dry but when it gets wed and muddy it will pack up quickly!
I also wanted to give the Ardent Race a go out back anyway as it is a better roller than the Ardent and I can definitely feel it. The only downside is sacrificing the raw grip I had with the Ardent in the corners....have had the rear slide out alot since the change but getting used to it.
I have a Rockshox Recon silver and the is ample clearance all the way around with the Ardent 2.4...12-13mm.
Quick question while on this topic...
I know this is a "how long is a piece of string" question, but what is the average time period or mileage you can get out of your OE pivot bearing set?
Granted conditions play a part but lets just average it out to 50/50 wet and dry rides with a bike wash after every ride!
Bought the bike A few weeks ago but it got new wheels recently Novatech hubs on rapide rims
Bike rides really good for wagon wheels , also upgraded standard rotors (180/160) to 203 and 180.
What width did you go with for the rims?
Before and after impressions?
Thank you guys for all the amazing feedback. My paranoid brain kicked in looking for tyre specials on the web Its been fine since I ran some sealant over the area on Sat. It was just the tiny blisters that worried me. Anyways, here is to more cycling
Can wait for the weekend! Doing Majik Forest and Meerendal.
Have a great week guys and thank you again!
I don't quite understand what you mean by "Its been fine since I ran some sealant over the area"?
How much sealant do you actually have inside the tyres?
I spec II mounting is at most 2 years old and initially came out on the XTR9000 and XT8000 series and then around 6 months thereafter on the SLX7000. Now available on the recently updated Deore M6000.
If your bike is older than that and did not come with the above spec'd components then it is more than likely I spec B or even the much older A
Thanks for the feedback. Certainly put my mind at ease a little.
So, I went out and got one this weekend. Lets hope for the best !
Nice
Enjoy!
Mine going in this week for the change from 2x10 to 1x.
I hate hills and they always get me but I decided on a 34 round and 11-42 as I ride quite a bit of flatish open off-road and still want some top end and thought it would be a good compromise either way!
As was mentioned here before, if I can't pedal in the 42 then I'll just get off and walk
Chaoyang tyres?
in Buyer’s Advice
Posted
Perfect for road riding now but that is where I would stop! They look like they are going to split into a thousand pieces...